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*Herr jugs I wouldnt get domes from him @ride.race.live

Problem is, 95% of the people on the FB group couldn't handle it here. Most them left because they were too soft

In response to a great question by RagunCajun I thought I'd throw out some trans info including various shifting problems and fixes I've had over the years. His quote "please report back once the pro mod is in. I went from an override to pro mod so I don't know how much better a pro mod is over stock." I'm the odd man out here running airshifted auto 1-4 m5&6 overrides (asphalt) but my son runs 6 speed promods for dirt drags, asphalt and secondary road riding which is legal here in Ohio. My overrides require ignition kill to shift into the non-cut 5th and 6th gears. Without unloading the tranny gear pressure no upshift will happen. My son ran stock trannies for years before upgrading to promods. When it comes to making super-fast "fan the clutch" type shifts his promods are without a doubt easier and far more reliable in making constant shifts over his OEM's but other than that situation I personally don't feel a promod has a great advantage... With regards to the following keep in mind that the troubles we ran into over the years were under race, wide open throttle type conditions/situations: The FIRST thing either of us will do when we run into missed quick shift situations at the track is change the oil. When the oil gets contaminated with clutch material it seems to cause problems with the smooth sliding internals when under pressure. I especially have to watch this in my asphalt Banshee's with multi-stage clutches which slip out of the hole because clutch material sheds off so much faster than usual. *Something I started doing long ago - Because of the contamination I drain the trans at the end of each race day and filter it through a fine paint strainer then let it sit for months to completely settle anything out. When I fill my tranny I use 1 litre of fresh new oil and top off with the strained. As far as transmission mechanical stuff goes: I'd say for sure that one of the most important adjustments to check if you're having problems is the shift/change lever but make certain that all the individual components are good and within spec because it isn't normal for that adjustment to change to the point of causing shifting trouble unless something is broken or heavily worn. A couple of weak links in Banshee transmissions are (1st) OEM second gears can be broke even with small motors. Be there done that in as small as a 358 cub. Robison billets are great imo and I'll leave it at that... (2nd) 3rd wheel gear has a very narrow area that rides on the splined output shaft and once galled shifting nightmares occur. I recommend Molly paste on assembly. A tube will last you forever. Moroso 35000 Moroso Moly Paste Assembly Lubes | Summit Racing Long winded for sure and I don't want to come off as a know it all because I'm still learning with these things. Just hoping that someone might pickup some useful information on my first hand experiences and maybe spark some interest back at the HQ!!

I refuse to run a ceramic because they can shatter. I dont understand the point of risking ceramic shattering when pancake bearings w/ OEM steel balls work fine. What helped me dramatically was lowering the shifter one spline.