bladesracing Posted January 9, 2008 Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 I'm putting on new tie rods (+2) and I'm gonna use my old tie rod ends. How do I do this and make them adjusted properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaNsHeeJuNkEy Posted January 9, 2008 Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 they will only go on one way so they thread out and in at the same time when you turn the tire rod. once it is were you want it just tighten the nuts up to the tire rods and good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bladesracing Posted January 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 they will only go on one way so they thread out and in at the same time when you turn the tire rod. once it is were you want it just tighten the nuts up to the tire rods and good to go. How do you know where you want em for sure? Just eye ball it or? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiftdT4R Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 How do you know where you want em for sure? Just eye ball it or? Stock arms, or +2+1s? If they are stock length arms, the length the tie rod should be with the ends adjusted out is listed in Clymer. That should get you close, and then you either back them out or set them in one turn, until your toe in/toe out looks good. The Clymer manual explains it very very well, if you dont have one, I'd highly suggest getting one. If they are +2+1s, the process is the same except, the length is obviously different. I figurd out the geometry once and wrote it down somehwere, I can find it if need be, but I think center BJ to center BJ is something like 16 1/2", but I can check to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bladesracing Posted January 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 Stock arms, or +2+1s? If they are stock length arms, the length the tie rod should be with the ends adjusted out is listed in Clymer. That should get you close, and then you either back them out or set them in one turn, until your toe in/toe out looks good. The Clymer manual explains it very very well, if you dont have one, I'd highly suggest getting one. If they are +2+1s, the process is the same except, the length is obviously different. I figurd out the geometry once and wrote it down somehwere, I can find it if need be, but I think center BJ to center BJ is something like 16 1/2", but I can check to be sure. They are +2 so if you could find out the info that would br great thanks man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiftdT4R Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 They are +2 so if you could find out the info that would br great thanks man Wow, I must have missed that in the original post. If you have +2+1 arms your going to be 16 9/16" from center of BJ to center of BJ. Mine actaully came to be a tad longer when I did mine. Otherwise the install is the same steps as in Clymer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaNsHeeJuNkEy Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 now i know there is a speacil lenght. i just i balled mine and the bike goes straight with no problems. since were on this is there one for your camber or like your upper a-arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
. Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 basically, for toe in or toe out (front in or front out) you find a good center point on the tire (middle tread is always good) but you want to be able to measure from the same point in the front of the tire as the back of the tire. Toe in will give you better turning ability, and toe out will give you better stability at higher speeds. I run mine with a little bit of toe in. An inch or so, but dont hold me to an exact measurement, I'm not sure of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregbowler Posted January 19, 2008 Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 basically, for toe in or toe out (front in or front out) you find a good center point on the tire (middle tread is always good) but you want to be able to measure from the same point in the front of the tire as the back of the tire. Toe in will give you better turning ability, and toe out will give you better stability at higher speeds. I run mine with a little bit of toe in. An inch or so, but dont hold me to an exact measurement, I'm not sure of that. This sounds backwards to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevrolet banshee Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 they will only go on one way so they thread out and in at the same time when you turn the tire rod. once it is were you want it just tighten the nuts up to the tire rods and good to go. :thumbsup: Like he said Chevshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06BCBANSHEE Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 sorry for digging up a old thread, but I got some new tie rod ball joints. looking to get these on and adjust the toe in. Ive read that it is best to adjust the toe in while you are sitting on the quad. Clymer says to jack it up. So what one is it? thanks guys!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 I've done it all ways and not noticed much difference in handling. So now I just do it sitting there by itself, without picking it up at all or sitting on it. (the easiest way) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06BCBANSHEE Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 I ended up doing it with it jacked up.....toe in was waaaaay off. got the toe in to exactley 1/4'' . rides 100x better lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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