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banshee or raptor


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alright sounds good peter.....would yfz 450 shocks do me any good for the time being, my buddy has an extra set of them for his 450? how much better would my shee handle

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i have never ridden a banshee w 450 shocks so i cant answer that from exp. but i know alot of guys on here who have. if your running stock a arms then the yfz shocks will bring your ride height up alittle and better than stock shocks esp. because you can adjust them. this would be a better set up for xc over mx because of the higher ride height and the narrower front end. if your running the yfz 450 a arms on your banshee then the 450 shocks will bring your ride height down which will be better for mx. if your getting the shocks for free from your buddy then i say go for it and try it out see what you think. If you have to buy them then i would say it depends on how much money they are. i would only buy them if they were at a good price were you could get your money back or maybe make some money if you need to sell them. if there more than $150 ish i would say hold off, take the $$ and invest them into some aftermarket shocks. im not saying get the top of the line shocks because i know you have a limited budget, so try works, or maybe find some used elkas, tcs, something like that. pm me your budget and ill figure out a good little budget for you. i also have a pretty good hook up with american racing a arms if you need it.

i would really buy aftermarket parts for the banshee over the yfz 450 set up if you can afford.

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ok, so should i keep my stock a arms for now, a lot of people are tellin me to get extended a arms????i can get the shocks for 100 bucks, but i dont know if its worth it, id rather just get some elkas or something. another thing, do i want piggyback or remote??? i have about 1000 to spend right now, and once i get back from iraq i might have a little more. i definatly want to improve my suspension and maybe a steering stabilizer and some there mods to get rid of some of the wicked arm pump im gonna have. what do u think i should do with.....lets say 1500 dollars. after that ill just add stuff as money comes in. thanks

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for 1500 I would look into some Racing +2+1s for GNCC +3 is to wide then some Elkas you can always send them back to Elka and have them put more adjustments in for you. I went with the Piggybacks because of the convience of adjustments and look RRs you have to mount yourself. Then I would look into a GPR Steering Stabilizer an anti vibe stem is nice and if you want one you will have to shell out because you cant get a stabilizer to fit both stock and aftermarket but GPR or Scotts stabilizers will help more than any stem or Bars.

 

First Tires of course. Maxxis Razr or Razr 2s, Holeshots, Kenda, all good choices

 

LSR Racing A Arms- 680-700 add 50-75 for SS Breaklines

 

ASR Are cheaper but I cant recomend them since Ive never seen anyone run them but you can ask around here seems like alot of people like them. Whatever you do make sure the A Arms you buy are full 4130 Chromoly and get the adjustable ones. More expensive but those adjustments come in handy.

 

Elka PB Comp adj- 850 or so then you can add on. Or save up for Comp/Rebound or even Elite$$$$

I just stuck with stock and saved up for my Elites. Good move would be getting those YFZ shocks for 100 to hold you over then sell them for when you get enough money for good suspension. Elka(My choice) Custom Axis, PEP ZPS, TCS All proven and all are great upgrades.

 

Then worry about your rear end setup. -1 -2 swingarm. good choices a good rear shock or a revalved stocker but remember YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!! Plain and simple. If you want to compete you need to spend.

 

Then if you want motor work and diffrent pipes down the line you can do that but thats the last thing you need to think about.

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washburn gave you some really good advice.

now the next qeustion is are you racing mx, or gc or both?

now being on the budget like you said i would keep your tires for right now as long as they have good tread. if they have bad tread and you need some new ones i personally love my kenda claws up front there pretty light and have great gripping tread that will really dig in deep. there also considerbly cheaper than alot of other tires of the same caliber like maxis. for the rear i remember somebody saying that the yfz 450 rear tires are the way to go because there a great bang for the buck esp. when your on a budget. ill have to look more into the rears and let you know if this is correct. As far as size goes, it all depends if your racing mx or xc?

i would then get a set of ASR A ARMS. i run the asr and i love them. just make sure you get the fully adjustable ones like washburn said. you can get either the +2+1 which is what i think most people go with or +3+1 wich is what i went with and love them. either one is a good choice. i know alot of people say go with the +2+1 for the woods over the +3+1 but i really dont see what an extra inch on each side is going to really do? but thats just me and so far i have had no problems in the woods. if your racing mx i would still go w the +3+1 alitlle more stable. call mike from ASR hes a great guy and he will answer any questions you have. there a arms are really nice, great quality, great price and great warrenty. you will get a lifetime warrenty on the a arms. if for any reason your a arm bends they will replace it for free and their one of the only companies that stands buy there warrenty. a arms are exp. and it sucks with no warrenty. there number is 435-577-2266 and again the guys name is mike. make sure you tell him peter v or peterlocal22 sent you and he will give you there lowest price available. im pretty sure there prices differ on different sites, for example their web page and ebay. as long as you say peter v or peterlocal22 he will take care of you. the a arms come w tie rods too, and if you go +3+1 you will need longer brake lines which they have. if you +2+1 im not sure if you need lines right now and if you dont then thats more money saved at this time. just ask mike he will know. i think for the fully adjustable a arms, heims, bushings, tie rods, your looking at around $400.00 and the brake lines are probably 50 bucks.

now i also read some good stuff on wicked a arms but have no idea because i have not persoanlly rode them.

depending on what you get for a arms you will then need aftermarket shocks. you can go on eaby and try to find a used pair that matches up with your weight, your a arms, and riding style. axis, works, elka, etc look at washburns list he had all the big names that are good quality. another recomendation i would make is to call works. i know they were running a sale w 10% of all shocks about a month ago. anyways i would recomend the works pro 6 series with ressies. brand new i think there 679 brand new.

well with the a arm and shocks your looking at about 1200 and then im not sure if you need the tires or not. if you dont need the tires look into some fasst flexx bars. i just got a pair and i will be trying them this weekend and i will let you know if they reduce arm pump. if you got a set of these it would bring you right to the 1500 mark. im not sure about the stabilizers because ive never tried one but i have heard great things about them. but i think like a scott stabilzer might bring you past the 1500 dollar mark.

anyways i would then save up for a -2 swing arm and an extended axle. then your almost there.

hope this helps pm me if you need any more advice.

thanks and good luck.

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For me the +2+1s are dead on perfect where I ride an inch on each side makes that big of a diffrence. For example I was riding with some Pro class CC Racers last sunday and the hillshoots we were doing had huge rocks on either side and if I would have been two inches wider I would have got hung up bigtime. Also in tight technical wooded areas alot like GNCC, is only a few inches wider than the bikes and those couple of inches really do make a diffrence. Now if your planing on MX Ide have to say the +3+1s would be the smarter choice. Same for motocross IMO.

 

Also IMHO I would never think of buying a 625.00 set of Works shocks when you can save up 200 more and get Elkas, PEP Limited Mass are liike 700, Custom Axis (Most expensive along with Motowoz) TCS. Works are really stiff in every case Ive ever rode on them and they dont feel as good through whoops sections of any kind. This is from my own personal expirence and word from other seasoned racers with Works shocks compared to the others. Like I said you get what you pay for.

Plus there is a company selling Elkas on Ebay cheap. 360.00 for non adjustable no PB/RR as the adjustments go up so do the prices but they are rite.

+

 

Looks like they went up to 410.00 this is a pretty good buy though. I might know a guy who will let them go for a little cheaper Im not sure though. A phone call never hurts http://j-hracing.com/

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Elka-Front-...sspagenameZWDVW

 

I think its around 945.00 for Comp/Rebound Elkas

 

If you have any suspension questions or need someone to rebuild/upgrade your shocks go here http://www.gtthunder.com/SuspensionHome.htm

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ill be racing XC, thanks alot guys i appreciate all the help

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with that said i guess it really depends on what he will be racing, xc or mx?

as for shocks your probably right save up the extra 200 and get something kick ass, although i have heard really great stuff about the pro g series, theres a guy on this site that runs them and really likes them. im pretty sure the sundal racing team runs them too. also i figured with the budget i figured the pro g series would be a good investment. washburn, ive never ridden the elkas so i cant say. it sounds like you have a better idea from actual exp. in the shock department so you should probably listen to him on the shocks. i can say i love my axis though,

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ill be racing XC, thanks alot guys i appreciate all the help

 

 

missed ya, XC, then you should probably go w the +2+1, thats what most guys run.

washburn would you agree that dual rate is the way to go for shocks because of the small length of the banshee shock. wouldnt you say that tripple or quad is just to many springs for a short shock?

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missed ya, XC, then you should probably go w the +2+1, thats what most guys run.

washburn would you agree that dual rate is the way to go for shocks because of the small length of the banshee shock. wouldnt you say that tripple or quad is just to many springs for a short shock?

 

Dual rate, Your exactly rite the length of the shocks the Banshee requires is to short for a tripple rate spring setup to be effective at all. There is the option of getting long travle A ARms and LT Shocks for the Banshee and that would require a quad rate spring but I think standered travle is the way to go for the front end and Elkas new LT Linkage and shock in the rear.

 

I love Axis shocks too man. I was going to buy them but figured the LT Rear end package Elka is offering is key for me plus I always liked the way Elkas ride when setup rite but yeah, you cant ever go wrong with Custom Axis shocks.

 

 

Also Im not Knocking Works shocks. They are a long time company made in USA That has been helping out ATVs in the handeling department longer than any other. I just feel from personal expirence if you want the best and have the money get what feels rite to you or take Racers words for what the best is. If you dont have the option of testing shocks out for yourself. Dont listen to companys selling the products cause they will recomend whatever makes them the most coin (USUALY) Take the guys who have actualy been there and tested them out in conditions your planing on riding under.

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you cant get quad rates for the banshee, even in long travel (which is acutally just a longer shock to alow more springs and better valveing, the wheel travel is the same) its only long enough for a triple rate, call elka they can explain better. heres a pic of mine with the "long travel" front end with tripple rate elkas

post-23715-1194490479.jpg

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hey thanks for all of the advise guys, ill let you know what happens

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