Carport_Racing Posted February 13, 2007 Report Posted February 13, 2007 ok people i just figured i would ask on here what the best type of clutch set would be best for my '98 Banshee. thx Quote
locogato11283 Posted February 13, 2007 Report Posted February 13, 2007 call jeff at FAST. 1-785-364-5325 Quote
87sheerips Posted February 13, 2007 Report Posted February 13, 2007 If youre cheap like me, go with the heavy duty TUSK kit from RMATV. 35 bucks with HD springs. Im goin on my second season with no problems! Quote
Trick2stroke Posted February 13, 2007 Report Posted February 13, 2007 That F.A.S.T. clutch is going to last you. Alittle more coin then the cheapo tusk kit but it's worth it. Quote
dajogejr Posted February 13, 2007 Report Posted February 13, 2007 FAST clutch. Ran it all year on my stock motor, piped, jetted, timing in 05. Beat on it all year in my 4 mil cub, and I'm using the same clutch in my 10 mil cub alky drag bike I'm in the process of building. It is still in excellent shape, and I don't cut corners on anything, if I needed a clutch, I would buy it. What's 90 or 100 bucks compared to the thousands you spend on a motor, frame, setup, etc. If you have a stock bike, use stock springs, if you have mild mods (bolt ons) use 3HD springs and 3 stockers. If you have a wild ported, snorting ride, use all 6 HD springs. Quote
sheefreak Posted February 13, 2007 Report Posted February 13, 2007 I have also had good luck w/the Tusk kit. Going to be second season on a drag ported 4-mill. Quote
Kama Posted February 14, 2007 Report Posted February 14, 2007 If you have a stock bike, use stock springs, if you have mild mods (bolt ons) use 3HD springs and 3 stockers. If you have a wild ported, snorting ride, use all 6 HD springs. Interesting, I've never heard that before and I'll have to try it out. I use the EBC EP Race Kevlar clutch plates with a set of factory Yamaha plates. I'm not sure what they are off of exactly(I think it off of the old bike the shee motor came off of), but they are about 50% thicker than the stock. They ran me about 80.00 shipped from www.sandtrax.com. Lonnie will hook you up with anything and everything you need for your banshee. Everything he sells he has tried and dyno tested himself. Quote
sheefreak Posted February 14, 2007 Report Posted February 14, 2007 (edited) Interesting, I've never heard that before and I'll have to try it out. I use the EBC EP Race Kevlar clutch plates with a set of factory Yamaha plates. I'm not sure what they are off of exactly(I think it off of the old bike the shee motor came off of), but they are about 50% thicker than the stock. They ran me about 80.00 shipped from www.sandtrax.com. Lonnie will hook you up with anything and everything you need for your banshee. Everything he sells he has tried and dyno tested himself. The more HP you have, the more spring tension(or cintrifical(spelling?) force if you are speaking lockout) you need on the clutch paks to keep them from slipping. Edited February 14, 2007 by sheefreak Quote
trueraiderfan Posted February 14, 2007 Report Posted February 14, 2007 I use the clutch from jeff at f.a.s.t and I have used it for about 4 rides and so far I like it just fine. Just remember you get what you py for. 100.00 is well worth the money on a good quality clutch. Quote
dajogejr Posted February 14, 2007 Report Posted February 14, 2007 The more HP you have, the more spring tension(or cintrifical(spelling?) force if you are speaking lockout) you need on the clutch paks to keep them from slipping. Actually...with a lockup clutch, many people use stock springs for a lighter pull at the lever. The lockup plate does the work via weights and centrifugal force as it's spinning.... This guy didn't mention a lockup, though.... :thumbsup: Quote
jeepman380 Posted February 14, 2007 Report Posted February 14, 2007 Get the F.A.S.T. clutch kit. Have mine for almost a year now and it still looks brand new. Takes a beating and keeps on hookin'. Quote
Devans Posted February 14, 2007 Report Posted February 14, 2007 Loving my tusk with 3 hd springs and 3 stock! Quote
MDS2106 Posted February 14, 2007 Report Posted February 14, 2007 (edited) I also run the tusk clutch and just now changing it after 2 years of abuse. Donot buy the tusk or ebc brand HD springs either one is not much different than stockers.For all the people that think they actually get hd springs from ebc or tusk,I have taken a picture of two ebc heavy duty springs with a Barnett HD spring in the middle.Can you tell which one is really heavy duty? I run 3 hd barnett springs and three ebc springs and have had good luck with a cheaper brand clutch.I firmly believe a clutch is only as good as its springs... Edited February 14, 2007 by MDS2106 Quote
Kama Posted February 14, 2007 Report Posted February 14, 2007 Here is a good question for you guys, what kinda of bolt can I replace the stock clutch spring bolts with? I know they are all metric but are regular metric bolts safe to use? I've twisted the head off 3 of my stock bolts and I'm tired of trying to twist the broken bolts out. I want to put a stronger one that is safe to set in the oil. I did use regular ones that matched pitch and length but I want to make sure they were ok in there. Quote
sheefreak Posted February 14, 2007 Report Posted February 14, 2007 Actually...with a lockup clutch, many people use stock springs for a lighter pull at the lever.The lockup plate does the work via weights and centrifugal force as it's spinning.... This guy didn't mention a lockup, though.... :thumbsup: Sorry, I didn't explain what I was trying to say very well. I realize you don't need the heavy springs on a lockup, and I know he didn't ask about a lockup. I am in need of a lockup myself as I run 6 Toomey springs and it sucks. I was just explaining why you might need heavy springs and that a lockup achieves the same thing and beyond. Quote
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