Ducman Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 Is it easier to just pull the motor to remove and re-install cub cylinders or can it be done while the engine is in the frame? The nuts in the front of the cylinders are going to be a bitch in sure. The builder that originally installed them did a little clearance grinding around the front stud area to make accessing the nuts with a wrench a little easier. I haven't had to do it yet and was just wondering how hard it was to do w/o pulling the motor. The builder I had install the cylinders originally did it with the motor out and said that it was really hard to do with the motor in the frame. Quote
cam2 Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 Is it easier to just pull the motor to remove and re-install cub cylinders or can it be done while the engine is in the frame? The nuts in the front of the cylinders are going to be a bitch in sure. The builder that originally installed them did a little clearance grinding around the front stud area to make accessing the nuts with a wrench a little easier. I haven't had to do it yet and was just wondering how hard it was to do w/o pulling the motor. The builder I had install the cylinders originally did it with the motor out and said that it was really hard to do with the motor in the frame. i think that it would be easier while it's out of the frame, especially if you're doing it by yourself. when i put my engine back together when i had the stock jugs ported i put them on when the engine was in the frame, one at a time of course. but when i put 421 cub engine together i figured that it would be a big pain in the a$$ to put the jugs on while the engine was in the frame by myself. so i did it while the engine was on the bench. i had one piston up and one piston down so i only had to deal with one set of rings at a time. if you have help then you may be able to install the jugs while the engine is in the frame. also, depending on how much of the jug he ground off for the front nuts you may still have to grind a 12mm wrench (box end) in order to get it on the nuts. Quote
r/atvshee Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 it would be easier to put them on while the motor is out of the frame. more space to work in. BTW let me know how the power is with the 421. im gonna be getting one in about 2-3 weeks and want to know what kind of power i need to brace myself for :biggrin: Quote
bansheeseat$$ Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 i think that it would be easier while it's out of the frame, especially if you're doing it by yourself. when i put my engine back together when i had the stock jugs ported i put them on when the engine was in the frame, one at a time of course. but when i put 421 cub engine together i figured that it would be a big pain in the a$$ to put the jugs on while the engine was in the frame by myself. so i did it while the engine was on the bench. i had one piston up and one piston down so i only had to deal with one set of rings at a time. if you have help then you may be able to install the jugs while the engine is in the frame. also, depending on how much of the jug he ground off for the front nuts you may still have to grind a 12mm wrench (box end) in order to get it on the nuts. It is easier to do out of the frame plus you don't have to worry about any debree falling off your frame and into your engine.Plus you may have to pull the cylinder off again if you have a leak after doing your pressure test.My .02 :beer: it would be easier to put them on while the motor is out of the frame. more space to work in. BTW let me know how the power is with the 421. im gonna be getting one in about 2-3 weeks and want to know what kind of power i need to brace myself for :biggrin: You will deffanently know you got a power increase so have new undees waiting :biggrin: Quote
Meat Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 its obviously easier out of frame. Take the extra time and pull it out of the frame. You can get that motor all cleaned up real nice and clean the frame and shit like that. Get er done and do it right, pull that mother fucker outta frame. Quote
Ducman Posted November 17, 2006 Author Report Posted November 17, 2006 Darn, I wanted to leave the motor in the frame. I figured it would take me more time to pull the motor than just fighting with the cylinders in the frame. I know it would be easier to put the cylinders on out of the frame but has anyone done it while the motor is in the frame or is it impossible? Quote
odaen Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 Darn, I wanted to leave the motor in the frame. I figured it would take me more time to pull the motor than just fighting with the cylinders in the frame. I know it would be easier to put the cylinders on out of the frame but has anyone done it while the motor is in the frame or is it impossible? I've done it before, not really that big of a deal, really. pull your tank and front plastics off...piece of cake. Quote
rocketboy Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 not knocking anyone ,but i dont know what yo u guys think is so hard about it ,I had no problems with clearance ,pretty simple IMO :beer: Quote
Meat Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 just two different ways to do the job. Im anal retentive and would have to pull the motor and clean everthing up real nice. How many motor mount bolts are there ? Not alot. I guess If your in a hurry or just don't have the time, then by all means mount that big ol monoblock on the cases in the frame. Iv done a few standard juggs without pulling the whole motor out, but if I had a cub setup, I'd have that motor on the bench, where I could inspect every thing and be certain everything is tight and shit like that. When I would install a set of juggs and keep the engine in the frame, I would take a piston and start it into the bottom of the jugg, stick em just far enough that the rings clear the bottom of the cylinder sleeve. Put one piston pin circlip into the piston. Now take the jug\piston combo and place the whole assembly over the connecting rod, and assemble. The only reason for puttin the piston into the bottom of the jugg before it gets mounted to the crank is its alot easier to compress the oily piston rings and keep them from spinning when you have the piston and jugg sitting on your workbench. Now I don't know if you can do this with a monoblock, but maybe experiment with this method. Hope I made sense. Quote
Animalman294 Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 Yeah, the motor is much easier to work on when it is not in the frame........... :beer: Quote
RNBRAD Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 I'm with rocketboy on this one. I've done it both ways. I'll take doing it in the frame any day over pulling the motor. I only pull the motor if the cases need split. Granted it is easier to work on out of the frame, that's a given. But with the added work of undoing all the nuts and bolts, chain etc from the frame, it's just so much easier leaving it in when it's said and done. It's just a set of juggs and pistons, no biggy. The front center nuts are hard to get to no matter how you slice it. I took a wrench and gound the edges thinner so it would fit around the nut. Quote
No Limit Powersports Posted November 17, 2006 Report Posted November 17, 2006 I think its arp that makes some 8mm x 1.25 nuts that take a 10mm wrench a little trick Calvin taught me along time ago makes the front two bolts cake anyway alot of your builders should have them or ARP part number 300-8311 for a two piece pack Quote
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