decon Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 Been thinking about getting some lighting, I'm not trying to run HID's or anything but I want something bright so I can see at the dunes at night, and night riding in the trails. I read that page over at DuneReview about running Hella 500's and a set of handle bar Trail Tech Lights, and also putting a battery on the bike. My question is what is the battery good for? If I get a ricky stator 200w stator and the ricky stator flywheel wouldn't the light be bright at low rpms? Im looking to run what the Hella 500 driving lights and a set of handlebar lights, that should run with a 200w stator correct? Some insight would be helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 (edited) Been thinking about getting some lighting, I'm not trying to run HID's or anything but I want something bright so I can see at the dunes at night, and night riding in the trails. I read that page over at DuneReview about running Hella 500's and a set of handle bar Trail Tech Lights, and also putting a battery on the bike. My question is what is the battery good for? If I get a ricky stator 200w stator and the ricky stator flywheel wouldn't the light be bright at low rpms? Im looking to run what the Hella 500 driving lights and a set of handlebar lights, that should run with a 200w stator correct? Some insight would be helpful. I did a DC conversion a while back and it caused nothing but nightmares. I have an eletronics degree and know what I'm doing too! Got a 250watt stator from RMATV already wired for it, got a ricky stator 200watt unit and did the conversion on it. Had the voltage regulator and everything. I burned up 3 stators with that shit. I will never do it again. Get some good bulbs, a bigger stator and run them on the stock wiring harness. I've talked to 3 people who did the DC conversion and all of them said it would burn up a stator in a matter of weeks. Same thing happened to me. Lesson learned, money down the drain. The only thing the battery really lets you do is run them full wattage even when the bike is off. Plus it will give you a little more power. The stator is then used to charge the battery when the bike runs. Edited June 28, 2006 by BigRed350x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallrat Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 I've been running DC for about a year now without problems. In your case the only benefit you'd gain is your lights wouldn't dim when you got off the gas (or at least not as much), and you could turn the lights on without the bike running. I don't think its worth the hassle just for that. You lose some wattage by doing the conversion. So if the RS is rated for 200w, most you can actually put to it is somewhere around 160-170 without issues. I did mine cuz I went with HID's. Going DC for any other reason ain't worth it IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
decon Posted June 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 ok thanks guys...that seemed to answer my question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted June 29, 2006 Report Share Posted June 29, 2006 I've been running DC for about a year now without problems. In your case the only benefit you'd gain is your lights wouldn't dim when you got off the gas (or at least not as much), and you could turn the lights on without the bike running. I don't think its worth the hassle just for that. You lose some wattage by doing the conversion. So if the RS is rated for 200w, most you can actually put to it is somewhere around 160-170 without issues. I did mine cuz I went with HID's. Going DC for any other reason ain't worth it IMO. You ever have ANY trouble with your stuff? Do you run your lights all the time or just when you need them? Does your regulator get hot at all? I don't know WTF was wrong with mine, but it would MELT down a stator in a couple days of riding. All spark would just go away and when I would pull the stator the coils on the spark and charging circuit would both be all black and burned. Happend on a stocker, a ricky stator 200watt module and one of the ones from RockyMountainATV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrmel Posted June 29, 2006 Report Share Posted June 29, 2006 i converted to dc so that i can run a radiator fan. the reason for this is because i somtimes do some really tight technical riding, the kind of 1st and 2nd gear action that normally overheats a banshee. what i did was wire it up so that the 2 wires comming out of the stator go to my full wave bridge diode mounted on a heatsink. 1 of those 2 wires also goes to the stock voltage regulator. so 2 wires go in the bridge diode, 2 wires come out. what goes in is ac comes out is dc. this dc is wired up to my lighting in such a way that my high-low-off light switch actually turns on my radiator fan instead of low beams when i have it set to low beam. when i set it to high beam then the fan turns off and my high beams come on. so i basically have no low beams anymore. what i do have is the ability to run a radiator fan during the day with no lights on, and at night when a radiator fan isnt needed it stays off and my lights are on. it seems to work great. havent burned out a stator yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallrat Posted June 29, 2006 Report Share Posted June 29, 2006 I'm using a RS 200w w/ a trailtech regulator - never gotten hot. RS changed their stator design somewhat recently, so maybe that's the difference. I only use my lights at night, but have the battery on for charging during the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted June 29, 2006 Report Share Posted June 29, 2006 I'm using a RS 200w w/ a trailtech regulator - never gotten hot. RS changed their stator design somewhat recently, so maybe that's the difference. I only use my lights at night, but have the battery on for charging during the day. Yeah a lot of planetsand guys are having trouble burning up RS stators. Maybe I needed an early gen. stator for what I was doing with it. I don't know. I'm back to stock lighting now and don't really ride at night much anyway so its all good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RATBIKE0130 Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 Yeah a lot of planetsand guys are having trouble burning up RS stators. Maybe I needed an early gen. stator for what I was doing with it. I don't know. I'm back to stock lighting now and don't really ride at night much anyway so its all good. The difference between the old version and the new version of the stators done by Ricky Stator is the primary ignition coil resistance. The old ones were out of spec reading 5-10 ohms high. They had nothing to do with the lighting coil. You probably overlooked something. If you do go with the DC conversion it is totally worth buying the MR16 HID's from trailtech. They aren't very expensive considering how much you will spend on a good set of halogen lights and mounts. Wallrat knows what my bike looks like at night... I wouldn't want to be riding towards my bike at night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodge Posted August 23, 2006 Report Share Posted August 23, 2006 I just recently did a DC conversion on mine with a RS stator and a TrailTech regulator and things are working as advertised. One thing I did though was built a new wire harness with 14Ga wire instead of the stock stuff. The stock wriing acannot handle the current that these things will put out. Now I can turn the lights on and never worry about them dimming down when the bike is at idle. It is a must do if you do any night time riding IMO even if you are not running HID's. I also did this same mod on a buddies bike with a stock stator, but I really think it makes a diff to build a new wiring harness with bigger Ga wire to keep things happy. Hi what volts do you get when at idle with lights on and off? Im having probs charging my battery with the lights on. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
375hp banshees Posted August 23, 2006 Report Share Posted August 23, 2006 i converted to dc so that i can run a radiator fan. the reason for this is because i somtimes do some really tight technical riding, the kind of 1st and 2nd gear action that normally overheats a banshee. what i did was wire it up so that the 2 wires comming out of the stator go to my full wave bridge diode mounted on a heatsink. 1 of those 2 wires also goes to the stock voltage regulator. so 2 wires go in the bridge diode, 2 wires come out. what goes in is ac comes out is dc. this dc is wired up to my lighting in such a way that my high-low-off light switch actually turns on my radiator fan instead of low beams when i have it set to low beam. when i set it to high beam then the fan turns off and my high beams come on. so i basically have no low beams anymore. what i do have is the ability to run a radiator fan during the day with no lights on, and at night when a radiator fan isnt needed it stays off and my lights are on. it seems to work great. havent burned out a stator yet. csrmel I've been trying to decide on A fan /style / place to put it ect. I had one on my '88 b-4 it was stolen & I liked it except for the looks (durrell 7" on the outside/ front, of the shroud ) is that where you put yours & what style /size ect. did you use? alot of my buddies trail ride w/ 4x4's slowly & A fan is the only way to go for the shee to do that . I didn't finnish (b-4 it was stolen) hooking up A way to charge the batt. you dont have A batt, just converted to dc ? what amp is your fan. any info on that -- ("full wave bridge diode mounted on a heatsink. 1 of those 2 wires also goes to the stock voltage regulator.")-- set up would help also. thanks in advance! any pic's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrmel Posted August 23, 2006 Report Share Posted August 23, 2006 i dont have any pics of my banshee but heres a pic of the full wave bridge diode. http://www.electromechanicsonline.com/images/FWBL354.jpg basically, theres 2 inputs, and 2 outputs. a/c goes in from the 2 wires comming out of the stator. dc comes out. you have to mount it on a heatsink, i used a computer cpu heatsink. i used 4 120mm sunon high speed computer fans. http://project-2501.net/gallery/sales/Suno...20mm%20Fan.jpeg turns out they are a perfect fit for the radiator. you can even retain the stock radiator shrouding. the fans fit very nicely in the shroud. only thing you have to ditch is the plastic radiator grille. at just under 7 watts each, it wont tax the stator much as long as you dont run lights at the same time. also to help with lighting i installed a led tail light bulb, http://autolumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/89sw.jpg anyone who runs the stick lighting system on a banshee knows that if you apply the brakes, it makes the headlights dim. an led tail light bulb draws almost no power at all. i think its a couple watts. so now when i hit the brakes the headlights , or the fans, wont dim/slow down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted August 24, 2006 Report Share Posted August 24, 2006 i dont have any pics of my banshee but heres a pic of the full wave bridge diode. http://www.electromechanicsonline.com/images/FWBL354.jpg basically, theres 2 inputs, and 2 outputs. a/c goes in from the 2 wires comming out of the stator. dc comes out. you have to mount it on a heatsink, i used a computer cpu heatsink. i used 4 120mm sunon high speed computer fans. http://project-2501.net/gallery/sales/Suno...20mm%20Fan.jpeg turns out they are a perfect fit for the radiator. you can even retain the stock radiator shrouding. the fans fit very nicely in the shroud. only thing you have to ditch is the plastic radiator grille. at just under 7 watts each, it wont tax the stator much as long as you dont run lights at the same time. also to help with lighting i installed a led tail light bulb, http://autolumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/89sw.jpg anyone who runs the stick lighting system on a banshee knows that if you apply the brakes, it makes the headlights dim. an led tail light bulb draws almost no power at all. i think its a couple watts. so now when i hit the brakes the headlights , or the fans, wont dim/slow down. Is there enought space to put the fans behind the radiator pulling air through it rather than pushing it from the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrmel Posted August 24, 2006 Report Share Posted August 24, 2006 no, steering stem, or some frame part is directly in the way. you gotta mount em in the front. it doesnt look bad though. ill get some pics one day and post em up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kama Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 no, steering stem, or some frame part is directly in the way. you gotta mount em in the front. it doesnt look bad though. ill get some pics one day and post em up. Just wondering if you ever got any pics up. I race XC and I have a heat problem in the woods and I need something that will help keep me cooler until I can hit a faster section. Most of our tracks there are very few 1st gear sections but they still can wreak havoc if your stuck behind an inexperienced rider for any length of time. I'd love to be able to get your # so I could call and talk about the setup to get the exacts. If you dont mind me callin, drop me your # in my inbox and I'll give ya a ring. You can kinda walk me through the exacts. Season starts in 2 weeks so I gotta come up w/ something before the warmer months get here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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