racer Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 I personally have had very good luck with them.. Some others have had only the worst of luck. But they do know a thing or to about banshees. Check out their website www.trinityracing.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sand4ever Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 i also had this problem. it turned out my ricky stator adjustable timing plate was the problem. The pickup was to far away. I loosened it up and pushed it as close to the stator as possible and lock tited it. So far crossing my fingers it has ran perfectly. I think we need to contact ricky stator and tell them to drill the holes straight. Mine was over .18 away and it is suppose to be .10. Just my two cents worth. hope you find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handyman Posted April 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 Well I just got home from from the stealership and they are more stumped than I thought. The manager "Ted" said that the cylinder is firing at idle and comes back at the top of the RPM's of every gear and is not firing in the middle of the RPM range unless they milk it but even then it will cut out. They have a new out of the box banshee that they used as a donor bike for all ignition components,(stator, CDI, plug wires, box the plug wires connect to, etc). and there was no change. Even changing out the spark plugs made no difference. Ted said they have basically eliminated everything except the carbs. He also said that there might be a broken wire in the wiring harness but not sure. His guys were in the process of swapping out the wiring harness when i was there so we'll see if that changes anything. I did ask about the plug wires being corroded like NYUK mentioned and he said that when he changed out the wires from the new banshee there was no difference. I asked about the air gap on the stator and he said again that the stator from the new banshee didn't make a difference. He cleaned all electrical connections and grounds and still no difference. Ted said that he's been around banshee's since they came out in '85 and has never seen anything like this before. he said that he's worked on thousands of banshee's when he was down in the Riverside and Lake Elsinore area and never had one that he couldn't fix in a day or two and never had a situation like this. We both agree that when he finds the problem it will be one of those things where you just want to smack your self on the head and say " why didn't I look at that earlier". The best part is.....my bill so far is only $65. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtplay1975 Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 I had the same problem with the air gap on the pickup coil to the flywheel. The gap was too much when I put the adjustable timing plate in but it was that way when I tore it down so I figured what the heck, the crank seal was bad anyway right. Well after yet another dyno run with exaust analyzer it still came back lean on left side, so I spent my spare time over the next 2 months trying to find a air leak. Well just as chance after I eliminated all the air leak possibilities I closed that gap up on the pickup coil and kicked myself in the rear for not doing it when I had it all apart doing the crank seal, 2 months down the crapper. So I would definately check that out because nothing is more frustrating than not being able to make something run right lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueshee03 Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 raise the octane rating in your fuel and see if that helps.i run a big reed conversion,bored 40 over with a stock stroke and it will not run on both cylinders with less than 108 octane.if i try to run pump gas it will always drop the right cylinder.ed toomey done the motor and conversion back in 1997 and he could never find the reason it wont run on pump gas.i even tried goin to a pvl and then a fastline and it will still drop the right cylinder on pump gas.done it with 34 pj's ,35pwks and 38 mikuni's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handyman Posted April 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 raise the octane rating in your fuel and see if that helps.i run a big reed conversion,bored 40 over with a stock stroke and it will not run on both cylinders with less than 108 octane.if i try to run pump gas it will always drop the right cylinder.ed toomey done the motor and conversion back in 1997 and he could never find the reason it wont run on pump gas.i even tried goin to a pvl and then a fastline and it will still drop the right cylinder on pump gas.done it with 34 pj's ,35pwks and 38 mikuni's. 501717[/snapback] Would a small bore job cause this?????? It's bore to the 2nd over size from stock....I think that's a 64.50mm bore job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueshee03 Posted April 14, 2006 Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 (edited) boring should'nt cause it.however if it is needing bored it might.another thing that you might wanna try is fine wire spark plugs.they helped and run the best and longest in mine. Edited April 14, 2006 by blueshee03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98bonerSTOCKshee Posted April 14, 2006 Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 ohh god here we go... 501636[/snapback] My buddy Joe has had no luck with the trinity, ask anyone that was at the LS Spring Ride that bike sucks ass.... Anyhow on with th subject at hand.. Compression been check? I hope so.. I honestly still don't think it's electrical. With all the donor parts from the new shee it still ain't going... What was the last mod done before this started? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handyman Posted April 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 What was the last mod done before this started? 501869[/snapback] Top end rebuild.....I bought the bike and it was doing this. I rode the bike 2 weeks before I bought it and it ran fine. I bough the bike and the problem showed up out of nowhere. I knew the history of it and it never had any problems until after I bought it and rode rode for the first time as the actual owner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketboy Posted April 14, 2006 Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 wel lthen im surprised the stealership has eliminated all the complicatedshit first and then it comes down to the carbs ,that would be probably the first place i would look at if it was me . your slide may not be rising or the clip came out of the needle seat , try switching the carbs out fro manotherm odel and see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzuki0702 Posted April 14, 2006 Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 My buddy Joe has had no luck with the trinity, ask anyone that was at the LS Spring Ride that bike sucks ass....Anyhow on with th subject at hand.. Compression been check? I hope so.. I honestly still don't think it's electrical. With all the donor parts from the new shee it still ain't going... What was the last mod done before this started? 501869[/snapback] ive heard nothing good about trinity...except there cv2 carb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handyman Posted April 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 wel lthen im surprised the stealership has eliminated all the complicatedshit first and then it comes down to the carbs ,that would be probably the first place i would look at if it was me . your slide may not be rising or the clip came out of the needle seat , try switching the carbs out fro manotherm odel and see 501937[/snapback] They swapped out carbs from another banshee that was brought in for servicing and had the TORS eliminator kit on it and still no difference. They removed the jugs to see if there was any kind scoring on the wall or piston and he said that it looked Brand new. I tolds him that there might be 3 hours on the engine since I had the top end redone and he said that would explain why it looks brand new. They called and asked about the history of the bike and I told them what I knew. I told him that the bike was flipped and bent the handle bars from a dead stop. he said that gave hima couple more ideas what to look at. He said my bill was still at $65 since the diagnostic check has brought nothing as to what is wrong with the thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee4u Posted April 15, 2006 Report Share Posted April 15, 2006 (edited) Ihave seen,fuel restrictions from inline fuel filters,that look fine.Gas caps vapor locking,starving the engine of fuel.Was the screen in the petcock cleaned?Its rare,but I have also seen the case crack by the crank bearings,and let gear oil in. Edited April 15, 2006 by fastbanshee4u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98bonerSTOCKshee Posted April 15, 2006 Report Share Posted April 15, 2006 what's the plug look like on the dead side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pipebomb Posted April 15, 2006 Report Share Posted April 15, 2006 I'm dying to find out what is wrong with the thing. Good money says it's gonna be the stupidest and most simple thing wrong with it. like a pinhole in the fuel line to one of the carbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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