10 mil stroker

[mattw204]

Patriot racing has this kit where they take uses your stock jugs and a +10 crank. Is this a str8 drag engine? Can i use it for dunes and recreational butt kicken without some kind of funky race gas? what about aviator fuel?

[jay shafer]

where did u see this 10mm kit?

[biggun6ss]

It's on patriots website. If you plan on just duning I don't think a 10mm is what you need. A 10mm is more for drag i think. Just get a good dune and play port, get some bigger carbs, aftermarket filter/filters, and the right pipes. That should do fairly well for recreational riding and the butt kicken.

[Wallrat]

I kinda have to agree. A +4 stroker is a very common route to go cuz it gives great all around power and is still easy to control. Plus then you don't have to deal with getting your cases trenched and a big ass swingarm to keep the front end down.

[mattw204]

thanks. i was wanting to get the plus 7 crank kit with the 445cc cheetah cub cylinder.....i was wondering if this would be a fine kit that isnt stictly for drag....i would be gettin carbs and cpi big bores.......

[Wallrat]

RatBike something er other has that setup - +7 in cubs, w/ cpi's. He's using it as an all around duner but its actually almost too much power. Right now he's running a +2 swingarm but will definately have to get a longer one. What kind of terrain are you riding in?

[bkabina]

There realy is no price diff between a 7mil and a 10mill.The cubs cost the same for either casting.The cranks cost the same for a 7 or 10,and you need to trench the cases with both.

You can use a 10mill for dune riding too.Ask the guys over at planet sand about a 10mill duner bike.There are alot of guys over there that have them.

 

Oh yeah I say go with the 10mill. cub and hang the hell on.Jim at Passion can give you one hell of a deal on a 10mill cub set-up.Give him a call.918-232-3950 tell him I said to call.

Edited December 4, 2005 by bkabina

[Cotton eyed Joe]

There realy is no price diff between a 7mil and a 10mill.The cubs cost the same for either casting.The cranks cost the same for a 7 or 10,and you need to trench the cases with both.

You can use a 10mill for dune riding too.Ask the guys over at planet sand about a 10mill duner bike.There are alot of guys over there that have them.

 

Oh yeah I say go with the 10mill. cub and hang the hell on.Jim at Passion can give you one hell of a deal on a 10mill cub set-up.Give him a call.918-232-3950 tell him I said to call.

444840[/snapback]

I'd love to see someone run a 10mil on the dunes...but I'm wondering is how long of a swingarm are they using? +6 is about it before you run into problems jumping, cresting dunes, traversing razors ect. It would be a running son of a bitch either way though.

[mattw204]

No guys its a 10 mil with stock cylindersand it comes out to 465cc with stock bore i think....not exactly sure.......yea im definitly gona giive him a call

[lonestar]

Yes a 10mm is duneable trailable what ever you whant to call it. Every body thinks its dragracing only. Not true. With its torque & h.p its a rush

[SANDRAT]

whats wrong with guys? you think big motors are just for drag racing?lol

if you think a motor is to powerfull i think you need to eat your wheaties.

i'v built so many banshee motors because their never fast enuff so now im

building a CR500 motor and i found a kit that converts a 500 into a

CR1000cc dune rider. i hope this one will fast enuff im tired of building motors

no bull shit.

[Wallrat]

Well when you get enough power it starts to be a pain in the ass to ride on the stock swingarm. So you get a longer swinger to keep the front end down, but that means your bike doesn't handle as well or have the same traction. Personally I get kinda annoyed with the handling even on a +4 swingarm. Its not terrible but it definately magnifies some of the shee's weaknesses. There's a happy medium there for every riding style, trick is to just find yours. The whole bigger is better at all costs theory just doesn't hold water IMO.

[locogato11283]

Well when you get enough power it starts to be a pain in the ass to ride on the stock swingarm.  So you get a longer swinger to keep the front end down, but that means your bike doesn't handle as well or have the same traction.  Personally I get kinda annoyed with the handling even on a +4 swingarm.  Its not terrible but it definately magnifies some of the shee's weaknesses.  There's a happy medium there for every riding style, trick is to just find yours.  The whole bigger is better at all costs theory just doesn't hold water IMO.

446398[/snapback]

i agree. i really dont think a 10mm stroker is all that necessary for dune riding but thats just me. also, for play riding and messin around i would not wanna go any longer than +2 if that. im used to fuckin around on the 450 and with its short wheel base i can whip it around like no other. i dont think i could ever justify the cost of building a 10mm motor as a duner..but then again, i like riding my 450 at the dunes for playin and messin around.

[lonestar]

I run a 535 10mm p.v.tunnel ported it's rated at between 110 to 115 h.p. On cam-2 -110 race fuel with about 68 pounds torque. I'm using a plus 2" swing arm. But I'm using AMP LINK to help keep the front end down. It does help out. I don't rev it high coming out the hole either. You get alot of wheel spin with a 10mm. Once it starts hooking up in 3rd gear you start steping on the pipe then hang on. It's like being shot out of a cannon. I never ran this set up in sand with sand tires it would probably get to much traction and pull the front end up. Probably if I run this set up in sand. I would use a plus 6" swing arm. I have no problem with a plus 2" swing arm on hard pack dirt with a 10mill. Using 15/40 sprockets

Edited December 9, 2005 by lonestar

[mattw204]

Thanks guys...do you think that i could run it with pump gas or possibly air plane fuel(100 octane)