Mother F%#@ Brakes! Help

[NitroTate]

I worked on these damn things for 4 hours. The front calipers will not tighten up. I just put on new braded lines, I'm using a bleeder pump, I'm keeping the master cylinder full as I pump, I've got the fluid running perfectly clear with no bubbles on both sides and after bleeding each one and then closing off the bleeder screws:

 

NOTHING!!!!

 

No tightening of the lever at all, it stays soft and the calipers won't move.

 

What the hell could be wrong!!!

 

 

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[NickyPap]

it's a bitch. i did mine the old fashion way w/out a pump . told myself i'd buy one of those little pumps the next time. sure enuff tore a line and was pumpin that bitch again by hand.

this is what i did. I had a quick grip -it's a trigger type clamp that holds like 2 objects together until you release it. acts as a 3rd hand. I bleed one brake at a time.took a clear tube, made a loop and submerged it into an extra brake fluid bottle -to prevent drawning air.and attached the other end to the bleeder valve. pump the lever about 20-30 times hold it w/ the clamp, crack open the bleeder valve let the fluid pour out then tighten it before you release the lever.the fluid will push the air out. as long as your diaphram has a good seal and you are not allowing any air to reenter the system your lever will stiffen.

but if you have a pump you should be able to attach it to your bleeder and pull fluid /air thru the system. pretty quick. keep the level up in your resivor!

goodluck and be patient.

[iceman]

by yourselves! you are crazy! get a friend to help out.

[ssanddemon]

Well, OK there is this: DON'T pull the brake lever back all the way. See, during normal use, the piston inside the master cylinder never travels to the end of the bore, so crud, corrosion and etc. will build up. Remember brake fluid attracts water. This is a fact I learned many years ago as a rookie car mechanic- push the pedal down to the floor that first time, and you just killed the master. It may not crap out right away, usually takes days or weeks to really start fading, although it could be instantanious. This only occurs with several-year-old cylinders due to the corrosion build up. New cyl, no problem. Just something to keep in mind. For bleeding, I like to crack the bleeder and keep my finger over it while pumping the lever repeatedly. That allows air or fluid out but doesn't allow air to be sucked in. It's an easier way of pumping the air out, much faster as opposed to cracking and uncracking the bleeder over and over, and saves wear and tear on the bleeder hex. I'm not a big fan of the one man bleeder set up with the hose going into a bottle from the bleeder. It's easy to get air sucking from around the threads of the bleeder, and will never bleed fully. Just some .02 from a guy who's been there

[stu]

the best way is to stand your bike up on its grab bar so the front calipers are higher than the master cylinder then adjust the master cylinder so it lies level again. then bleed as normal. worked perfect for me

 

stu

[bansheekid409]

if nothing is leaking it shouldnt take more than 5 minutes. pump the front brake lever 5-10 times then hold, crack the bleader valve, pull the break all the way in, tighten the bleader valve after the air/oil mix has come out, dont let up the on break lever untill the valve in closed at all times. dont try to put your finger over the valve and do it the fast way. the break lines are so small it dont take but a few pumps on both sides.

 

make sure there is plenty on fluid in the res or you will be pumping air into your lines wich is what your trying to remove.

[NitroTate]

Believe it or not I've tried everything you guys have said except for positioning the calipers higher than the master cylinder. I did have a freind there helping as well. I don't know what is going on, but I'm going to keep trying.

 

One thing I failed to mention is I have a "1-control" brake system setup (handlebar brake lever controles both front and back brakes, there is no foot pedal) It's simply a fluid junction box mounted right off the master cylinder and has a screw you can turn to divert the fluid creating more or less pressure on the front as apposed to the rear.

 

However this really shouldn't make a difference because I turn the screw all the way to "Rear" and do the rear, then all the way to "front" and do them. By the way the rear brake works perfect, so the front has got to work eventually.

[FORMULASPEED]

Believe it or not I've tried everything you guys have said except for positioning the calipers higher than the master cylinder.  I did have a freind there helping as well.  I don't know what is going on, but I'm going to keep trying.

 

One thing I failed to mention is I have a "1-control" brake system setup (handlebar brake lever controles both front and back brakes, there is no foot pedal)  It's simply a fluid junction box mounted right off the master cylinder and has a screw you can turn to divert the fluid creating more or less pressure on the front as apposed to the rear.

 

However this really shouldn't make a difference because I turn the screw all the way to "Rear" and do the rear, then all the way to "front" and do them.  By the way the rear brake works perfect, so the front has got to work eventually.

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Can you post some pics on how you did that with the junction box?

My buddy lost his right leg last year, an he cant use the rear brake. This setup

will be perfect for him. Were did you get the junction box?

 

An by the way I cant get my front brakes to work either. Calipers flex an grab nut not hard enough. Ive tried every thing. Im upgrading to the newer style calipers an a new master. So hopefully it works out.

[NitroTate]

Can you post some pics on how you did that with the junction box?

My buddy lost his right leg last year, an he cant use the rear brake. This setup

will be perfect for him.  Were did you get the junction box?

 

An by the way I cant get my front brakes to work either. Calipers flex an grab nut not hard enough. Ive tried every thing. Im upgrading to the newer style calipers an a new master. So hopefully it works out.

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Yeah let me take my laptop out to the garage, I'm about to start some work again. But I don't know where the junction came from it was on it when I bought the bike from a guy 5 years ago. As a matter of fact I was going to try to find out where it came from in case it ever breaks so I could replace it but haven't started looking yet. I love it but it's hard to get on one with a foot brake and get used to it again. Hold on about 10 min...

[NitroTate]

Yeah let me take my laptop out to the garage, I'm about to start some work again.  But I don't know where the junction came from it was on it when I bought the bike from a guy 5 years ago.  As a matter of fact I was going to try to find out where it came from in case it ever breaks so I could replace it but haven't started looking yet.  I love it but it's hard to get on one with a foot brake and get used to it again.  Hold on about 10 min...

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Here you go, not the best pic...

[sandman121383]

theres somethin u don't see everyday, where'd u get that?

[locogato11283]

i use a mity vac for about 5 mins to start sucking brake fluid thru. then i go ahead and bleed them normally. never takes more than about 10 mins. its best to have someone help you but i have done it by myself before.

[NitroTate]

I finally got it!!!! I ended up flushing it out completely and then standing the bike upright to get the calipers higher than the master cylinder and finally got it.

 

thanks for the help guys.

 

I have no idea where the guy before me got that junction but I really like having it all in the handlebar lever.

[SICK BOY]

I reverse bleed my front brakes,Here's how----

Take the master cylinder cover off and make sure the rez is full.Place the cover back on,but don't put the rubber piece in and don't put the screw in.Grab the lever and pump it for about 3 mins.Then use a rope,or zip tie to hold the lever to the grip.Come back in 2 to 3 hours and remove the rope/zip tie and pump it for another minute or two and tie the lever to the grips again.Let it sit over night and when you wake up they are bleed,put the rubber piece back in the rez and tighten the rez screws and go ride.

[Percy]

Hi Sick Boy,

With the reverse bleeding process, in the morning, do you leave the zip tie on, re install the master cylinder cover with the rubber and screws and then thats it?

Sounds easy.

I am trying it 2night, as I have been batling all weekend to bleed the system the normal ways.

 

Cheers, Percy

 

 

 

I reverse bleed my front brakes,Here's how----

Take the master cylinder cover off and make sure the rez is full.Place the cover back on,but don't put the rubber piece in and don't put the screw in.Grab the lever and pump it for about 3 mins.Then use a rope,or zip tie to hold the lever to the grip.Come back in 2 to 3 hours and remove the rope/zip tie and pump it for another minute or two and tie the lever to the grips again.Let it sit over night and when you wake up they are bleed,put the rubber piece back in the rez and tighten the rez screws and go ride.

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