Percy

I need risers for my T2's but local dealer is advising anti vibro risers at twice the price. Anyone used these? any good? any web site links for more info appreciated, Cheers, Bruce

It is a breeze. I just put a Durablue axle in, and while I did it, I took off the bumper, A and D arms and swingarm and had the whole lot powder coated. Real easy to replace the bearings in the axle carrier, all sealed. Buy from a bearing shop, not the dealer. Only about $8 for both, plus the seals. Pack it with loads of grease and you are away. The after market axle has much better mechanism and you should go wider, while U r at it. I also re galvanised all the bushed covers etc, so it is looking quite trick. Not a hard job. Want to do the frame next. Thats a bit more work. Cheers, Percy

Hi Guys, Recently put a near rear light (same wattage etc) Started the bike and all was well. Started it a few days later, now I got no light at all. None front or back. I have no light switch as it is wired permanently ON. Have not touch any of the wiring on the front. Pls advice what I can check to try find the prob... There was a broken wire coming from the CDI to the rear lights, that I re joined. Since then, no lights at all. If I un join it, still no lights at all.... Thanks, Percy

www.thebansheezone.com is gone now. It was a kewl site, but no longer there. I started getting the bearings out, got the seals out, now battling to get the bearings out. Will continue tonight. Cheers, Percy

Hi Guys, How do I get the rear axle carrier bearing and oil seal out easily? I had a quick look and it looks quite complex Appreciate any advice beofre I attempt it, Cheers, Percy

the ones on the D arms were easy. Used a piece of bar an dknocked out from the inside. Still trying the A arms, harder as need a much longer bar, so less leverage. Cheers, Bruce

Hi Guys, My powder coater says I must remove the teflon A arm bushes. Any advice on removing them? Do they damage easy? What is the best tool? Cheers, Bruce

Does anyone know roughyl what a Banshee (normal mods (pipes, etc) will do 0-60mph? We all rekon they feel much faster than our cars, but want to know some times, if anyone has timed it? Cheers, Percy

I am strippind down the shee and want to do the swingarm, rear axle carrier, a+d arms and radiator grill the same color, 1) Can I get the metal parts sprayed, rather than PC. Will get a carbody shop to do the spray professionally. 2) Can I spray the plastic radiator grill? 3) Can I spray plastic engine side covers as well? Cheers, Percy-Zn

I put the spacers in, but ended up bending the stock axle, so put a durablue axle anyway. Do mostly hard trail riding and some jumps, so shoulda gone with the durablue in the 1st place. Luckily my local dealer took the spacers back. DB axle looks very trick as well...

At present my rear rims are flipped around, to be a bit wider. I am putting rear axle spacers on, as do mostly trail riding and want some more width. When I fit them should I flip the rear rims back to std, and only rely on the spacers for width, or can i leave the rim the way they are, plus the spacers, for even more width? Will axle be under too much pressure? Fronts are not flipped around. Cheers, Percy

Hi, I live at around 2500ft above sea and am jetted as such, with DG pipes and a Durablue filter. (Run with lid on, as do a lot of trails in mud etc) We are doing a ride into the mountains. Will start the ride at 4500feet and go to 9000feet above sea. We will only be on this ride for about 6 hours. I understand I will have a horsepower loss and the bike will run rich on the ride. Can I just remove the airbox lid for the ride, or do I have to rejet for such a short ride? I normally use 97 octane leaded gas, with Motul 600 at 33:1. Should I use the same fuel and mix for this ride, or will it help if I mix the fuel a bit leaner? Say 40:1, more oil=less fuel=leaner? Right? Should I put new plugs just before the ride? and use normal gap? Appreciate any advice. Cheers, Percy

I just trashed the stock front brake system, cause of brakes going soft on me. I put braided stainless hoses in, and apart from the saga to bleed them (Now solved) they are awesome. Look really trick and work a treat. I canned the 1 into 2 arrangement and have seperate hoses running from the master to each caliper. Seems to be much better. In South Africa, these hoses cost me R700 ($120) Small price to pay 2 b able to stop! Percy-Zn

Yeah, our local stealer is actually not too bad. But the prices we pay for parts in Sout Africa will shock you guys, In the US, you have such wide choice and such good pricing. We pay ove the top for parts, so when I can fix something myself, I always prefer it. Also gr8 to understand each and every part on the bike. Anyways, thanks again Cheers, Percy-Zn

Well guys, after spending all weekend pissing around trying to bleed my brakes, I finally took all the advice that has ever been written in this forum and set about it again this morning. Used a "One man bleeding kit" ($5 from local store) It's a little bottle with a magnet to hold it high on the bike, and 2 pipes, each with an adapter to fit on the bleeding nipples. Basically, just attach the system, open the nipples and then sit on the bike with a cold beer and pump away on the lever. Lo and behold, after 10 mins, all the air is gone and the front brakes work again. Now with braided hoses and no T piece. What a result. Thanks to all who helped with me with this. Saved me going to the strealer. Shot guys. Cheers, Percy-Zn

I run 32:1 on my 2000 Shee and all is sweet. Welcome to Banshee HQ, its an awesome place to learn all you ever need to know about a Banshee. They are LEGEND. Enjoy. Percy-Zn

These flippin boost bottles have raised more posts than anything. I rekon the camp is equally divided. Some guys swear by them, some guys rekon they are crapo. I have one on, ony cause it was on the shee when I got it. My mate just added on, and it seems to have made no diff. Looks kewl though, and you can tick it off as another mod. Cheap too. Percy-Zn

Hubs will the same. If you change to 9" then you need a higher profile tyre, to keep overall dia the same. Waht type of riding do you do, generally the 10" with lower profile tyre is better, as it gives less roll in the corners. Percy-Zn

I just bought some Tag T2's and was recomended to go wih the low bend style. Although I have risers on, to enable the bars to clear the long range tank. With the 70mm risers and low bend bars, I am sitting exactly same height as std banshee bars.. I guess with no risers maybe high bend is better.. Cheers, Percy-zn

Hi Sick Boy, With the reverse bleeding process, in the morning, do you leave the zip tie on, re install the master cylinder cover with the rubber and screws and then thats it? Sounds easy. I am trying it 2night, as I have been batling all weekend to bleed the system the normal ways. Cheers, Percy

Hi, My mates Banshee seems to be flooding on one side. Left side gets hot and runs well at all speeds. Right side is cooler and floods at low end. Right card is overflowing fuel when bike is idling. Bike will not idle, unless choke is out. Any help will b gr8 and i will pass onto him Cheers, Percy

Hi Guys, Thanks 4 all the feedback, I rekon my master cylinder is buggered. I have bed the lines, till fluid pores on the bottom, but when I nip up the nipplles, there is just no pressure on the brake lever. Aso, if I remove the lines completly and fil the reservoir, fluid does not come out the master cylinder when I press the lever. I heard that even just with gravity, it should run out the master cylinder? When bleeding,should I have the reservoir cap on? I also put the hoses into a tin of brake fluid at the bars, and when I opened the blleeding nippes, fluid ran out, so I am sure the lines are full of fluid, with no air spots. It just seems the master is not sucking the fluid from the res? How much does a new master cylinder cost? I dont seem to be abe to get the circlip out there, as pliers are too big. Appreciate all the advice' thanks, Guys Percy-Zn

Hi Holyman, When you say master cylinder, you mean at the brak fluid reservoir by the brake lever? It was working though which is wierd, so I am thinking maybe it is just a little blocked up and a good clean out will do the trick. I will try and clean it up with brake cleaner. thanks, Bruce

Hi there, I put new front brake lines on my Banshee last night and cant for the life of me get any pressure into them. (I replaced the stock one into 2 pipes, with a 2 pipe system, one straight to each caliper) I managed to bleed the system and there was fluid squirting out the nipple. Maybe the reservoir is not working as, when I took the lines off right at the top by the reservoir and squezze the brake lever, no fluid comes out. If I stick my finger over the hole, then squezze, it, then let go, then fluid seeps out. Any advice greatly appreciated... Cheers, Percy-Zn

SHaggy is right. No matter what chain u use, the Banshee has a shitty stock chain tightening arrangement. I have to adjust mine all the time and during rides it varies from tight to loose to tight. I tightenin the bolts way tight, but no avail. I have been advised only way to fix the prob is change the swingarm Anyways, Enjoy.