Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

hey guys new here.

But Im looking at getting a banshee here soon. I do alot of trail riding, and ride the nortwest sanddunes alot aswell.

I got this local quadtrails, that have some fun hill climbs that are steep and long.

But Im looking for getting a lot of low-end power.

Got tips?

Long-rods? Degree key?

Whats a good set of pipes? I want ESR or Toomey.

I was going to get a two into one carb set up with K&N air filter, and alunimun airbox, would that help low end?

 

Also I want to get a set of rear maxxis IRazr's good trail tire? I mostly ride gravel roads,and dirt roads. There some good sized jumps as well. So good shocks are a must.

So any good info would be must appreciated.

thanks

Posted (edited)

There are quite a few people on here that swear by Paul Turner Mid's. Toomey's aren't really considered very good pipes for "low low end"(I've got 'em). I'd also look into the 2 into 1 carb, lightened flywheel(PM Boonman), advanced timing(+4), V-force delta 2 reeds, and possibly an aftermarket cool head w/some 18-20cc domes(more compression). stclark816 runs the irazrs, i'm sure he'd give you his input on them.

 

Welcome to the HQ! :cheers:

Edited by Banshee17Racing
Posted

Its funny, ironically, but the lightened flywheel helped my "low" end out. Might be because it just gets out of the low end quicker.. revs quicker, etc. Dunno but mine's definitely got more pep off the line.

Posted

On my blaster is has a lightend fly-wheel , which helped alot on everywhere throught the power. Nah I would want to keep atleast stock gearing.

thanks for the info, I know the banshee isn't a great trail machine, but still would be kind of fun to tear up the trails :P

Posted

For pipes, get some FMF Gnarlies, or Paul Turner mids, or for ultimate low end you could pick up a set of 2 into 1 pipes (like DMD 916s) pretty cheap and have killer low and mid.

 

Don't get Toomeys or ESRs.

 

I went on my first ride with the I-Razrs and they kicked complete ass. I was running standard Razrs. The I-Razrs hook up awesome, but slide good as hell to.

 

Also, I wouldn't gear down, all that'll do is make you shift more, IMO.

Posted (edited)

From my personal experience I say,

 

for low end power go with FMF Gnarlies, timming plate set to +3 degrees, CoolHead with 21 cc domes if you live 1000 feet or lower and put a 13 tooth front sprocket. I guarantee, you will be pulling wheelis even in third gear.

 

The only thing I did not have from the list above, in my banshee, was the coolhead. Putting a coolhead with 21cc domes will boost the compression and give you more low end power. Boostting compression will make the banshee run hotter but since the coolhead has more volume of water it compensates and what happens is that you run a few degrees cooler than with a stock head. :cheers:

 

 

ABOUT THE FLYWHEEL

 

 

From: How to Choose a Powerband

by Eric Gorr

 

Flywheel Weights

A heavier flywheel will smooth out power delivery. The flywheel is weighted to improve the engine's tractability at low to mid-rpm. Flywheel weights are best for powerful bikes with decent low-end and an explosive hit. The weight will smooth out the hit and reduce wheelspin, which will improve your drive out of corners. One popular myth associated with flywheel weights is that they increase low-end power. If an engine doesn't have enough low-end torque in the first place it will be worse with the extra flywheel weight.

Two different types of flywheel weights are available: weld-on and thread-on. A-Loop performs the weld-on flywheel weight service. Steahly is a company that makes thread-on flywheel weights. This product threads onto the fine left-hand threads that are on the center hub of most Japanese magneto rotors. Thread-on flywheel weights can only be used if the threads on the flywheel are in perfect condition. The advantage to weld-on weights is they can't possibly come off. Modern bikes use external rotor flywheels. They have a larger diameter than internal rotor flywheels so they have greater flywheel inertia. PVL makes an internal rotor flywheel that gives quicker throttle response.

Edited by richybanshee
Posted

ABOUT THE FLYWHEEL

From: How to Choose a Powerband

by Eric Gorr

295734[/snapback]

 

That's why the banshee benefits from a lighter flywheel, because it has NO low end, so, you take some of the weight off and it allows the motor to rev faster at lower rpms creating more low end power. With the stock weighted flywheel at low rpms the weight keeps the motor from gathering rpms as fast and then when it finally hits the power it spins hard creating the harder powerband.

 

Make sense? With a cr500 motor or something, a heavier flywheel might be better suited due to the insane pull, but the banshee doesn't have any low end really, so the lighter flywheel helps the rpms rev quicker.

Posted

if you want really good throttle response, low and mid range you need an eric gorr port job. his woods port is unreal. sredish and stclark816 can vouch for this. best 200 bucks you can spend. ptmids will also get you there. aftermarket head to bump up compression will give you some low end as well.

 

 

sredish, i run a heavier flywheel on my cr500 banshee and it helps alot. its got even more grunt with it. i think i was running a 15 ounce weight.

Posted (edited)

This comment isnt going to be very popular but If you want low low end buy something other than a banshee... By the time you spend all your money making it ride a 4 stroke your could have bought a yfz 450.

Edited by eehsnab2
Posted
This comment isnt going to be very popular but If you want low low end buy something other than a banshee...  By the time you spend all your money making it ride a 4 stroke your could have bought a yfz 450.

295768[/snapback]

 

thats very true. you can turn a yfz450 into a badass hillclimber, mxer and whatever else you want. i ride some steep ass hills with mine and dont have any problems. and its stock length and stock engine.

Posted

A banshee can be one mean trail machine and hill climber...Get rid of about 90% of aftermarket pipes out of your head and stick to low end or midrange pipes. The power is unbelievably smooth and hard pullin. Go w/ Pt mids since you ride dunes also, I'd go w/ twin midrange pipes instead of the 2 into 1 pipe...Put a 15 tooth front sprocket on, NOss head 21cc domes, +4 timing, -2 swingarm, front shocks (whatever you can afford, they all work 200% better than stock) and move your foot pegs back 2", cut the shifter 2" shorter along w/ the brake lever...NOw you will have a trail quad that'll take you to the limits..Yes, the Pt's are more money than most other pipes, but I guarantee you that'll you never ride another shee w/ a power band like those have... ;)

Posted

More compression (new head or modified head), timing advanced 4-5 degrees, lightened flywheel, and some pipes that are designed for low or mid.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...