troyminator Posted October 19, 2004 Report Share Posted October 19, 2004 I did a search and read through allot of clutch slipping posts, but I am hoping to get more information. Background: I just got my bike together with the Passion Stroker, lightened flywheel, +4 timing, new barnet clutch and I took it out two weekends ago. I broke the bike in for the first day...not really getting on the power at all. The next day, I started to get on the gas a bit more. The bike really wanted to go. I did a plug chop and noticed that my bike looked like it was running a little rich, but that was not the big problem.... When I would get into high RPM's, the bike would begin to Rev Out, but the bike didn't want to move much more once it hit the power band. The plugs don't look lean. I think that the clutch was slipping. So here is where I think I went wrong...but please give me any feedback. When I was putting the clutch in and doing the initial adjustment (to get the arrows on the case lined up) I mis-read the clymer and adjusted the clutch lever all the way out (Tigtening the clutch cable) and then adjusted the clutch bolt and locknut until the arrows lined up. So... now I tried to loosen the clutch up, but then I had to let the clutch almost all the way out before the bike would begin to move. There was slack in the cable at the perch...but it still wanted to slip once it hit high RPM. As for the clutch springs, I alternated each spring between the Heavy Duty Springs and the stock springs. Also, I am using 80W MTL Maxima Trans Fluid What do I need to do? - Should I get a new cable? - Should I re-adjust the clutch with the adjustment nut turned all the way in? - Is there another oil I should be using? - Do I need to install all of the stiff springs? - Is there another way that you set up the clutch adjustment? If so, please share. I am hoping that other people with the passion stroker have had similar experiences and can shed some light on potential solutions. Thanks for the help!!! T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIRST BANSHEE Posted October 20, 2004 Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 I think your going to have to readjust the clutch rod first.also did you take the plate cushins out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyminator Posted October 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 F-B, do you think that having the cable adjusted all the way out when lining up the arrows will make much difference? I did remove the cushions. I read allot of posts about that. They are removed. Any other thoughts? Thanks, T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIRST BANSHEE Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 F-B, do you think that having the cable adjusted all the way out when lining up the arrows will make much difference? I did remove the cushions. I read allot of posts about that. They are removed. Any other thoughts? Thanks, T If you have the clutch rod to tight, the clutch will be partially disengaged. trying to line up line up the arrows will not engage the clutch.hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyminator Posted November 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2004 Well, I finally got a chance to get my bike off the trailer (Been toooo busy at work). I started to drain the oil and put a coffee filter to see if there was any metal debris. I didn't see any metal, but the oil smells really really bad (Burnt smell). I am assuming that this is because of the slipping (Is that a correct thought?). How do I check to make sure that my clutch is OK? As always, any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIRST BANSHEE Posted November 2, 2004 Report Share Posted November 2, 2004 Well, I finally got a chance to get my bike off the trailer (Been toooo busy at work). I started to drain the oil and put a coffee filter to see if there was any metal debris. I didn't see any metal, but the oil smells really really bad (Burnt smell). I am assuming that this is because of the slipping (Is that a correct thought?). How do I check to make sure that my clutch is OK? As always, any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, T I believe your manual will have a minium thickness for the frictions, Mine were in spec but were burnt and glazed so I replaced them. Hope this helps. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyminator Posted November 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2004 Thanks Jim, I didn't pull the clutch cover off yet, so I don't know what the plates look like yet. The oil had a grey tint to it...and kind of had some whitish looking swirls. I don't know if that is just some of the burnt residue or what. My coolant level hasn't changed, so I don't think there is anything getting into the oil. Thanks again, T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted November 2, 2004 Report Share Posted November 2, 2004 if your oil is grey colores its very possible that youve had some coolant in there. it wont take much coolant for it to turn a whitish color. how old is your banshee? who put the crank in it? the seals are new im assuming? sounds like some coolant in there to me. what color is the oil to start? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyminator Posted November 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2004 how old is your banshee? who put the crank in it? the seals are new im assuming? The bike was just rebuilt. I did the assembly work myself. I was real careful to make sure that everything was put in according to the clymers. I did make the mistake of adjusting the clutch bolt with the perch all the way out....which didn't leave me any room for tightening it up after it begins to break in. The clutch was slipping really bad out there once the bike RPM's were getting high. The crank was a brand new stroker crank. All the seals were new. Clutch was new. Basically a new engine. I broke it in really easy for an entire day and 1/2. Then when I started to get on it, it would start to Rev out. I tried to play with the adjustment at the lever...it helped a little with the slipping, but I had to let the clutch all the way out before the bike would begin to move...I know that aint good sounds like some coolant in there to me. what color is the oil to start? The entire oil isn't white, just some streaks of a whitish looking color. The oil was brand new 85W Maxima Clutch Saver Formula. It was a translucent brownish color, but now it is "greyish" with some small swirl marks that look more of a creme color than straight white. One thing for sure is that the oil STINKS really bad like a burnt smell. Hopefully I can tear into the clutch tonight to see what I see there. Is there another test I should do first? Thanks! T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chase73 Posted November 2, 2004 Report Share Posted November 2, 2004 OK the oil stinks because you burnt the clutch and most likely if it is smelling that bad you fried your friction plates so do yourself a favor and get some new ones and align the clutch up correctly and put in all the heavy duty springs I had a issue with sliping with just alternating the springs its a little hard to pull but u get used to it also try using the clutch saver oil by spectro its pretty good stuff but, any decent oil will do . You are making a decent amout more HP with the new engine so do it right and you will be happy !!!!!!!!!! OHHHHH P.S replace the metal plates as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BdBanshee Posted November 2, 2004 Report Share Posted November 2, 2004 With that many mods, you will probably need all the heavy springs in. Some of the heavy duty springs still won't have enough tension to keep the clutch from slipping. I use the Barnetts and haven't had any more clutch problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyminator Posted November 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2004 Well I got stuff appart tonight. Definitely burnt the clutch. I see black debris in the area...and I don't remember exactly what the plates looked like before, but they are black now...and don't have much difference between the thickness of the area where there were raised pads vs. the valleys between the pads. All the ball and rod were OK. I am gonig to get a new seal for the oring around the water pump opening port that goes into the clutch cover, but other than that...I don't see anything else that could have been wrong. My plans are to get a new clutch...probably just the heavy duty barnett again...but this time use all stiff springs...I will also get a new clutch cable...and this time adjust the screw with the clutch perch adjustment screw all the way in (As loose as possible right?) If I have it all the way in, how will I get the play at the lever onc I get the bolt adjusted in the clutch? Wish me luck. If there is any secret tip that you guys use when adjusting the clutch, please let me know. Thanks! T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadfoot350 Posted November 3, 2004 Report Share Posted November 3, 2004 Dont get a barrent clutch again. Go to the yamaha dealer and order this clutch. 4H7-16321-02. This is for the fibers only and you have to buy them each for 8 dollars each. These are for a 750cc motor and have a lot more surface area than stock. Also the best thing about these fibers is they do not have a taper on the ears where they slide into the basket. All the aftermarket ones are tapered and that is why you will have big groves cut into your basket and you will have to buy a hindson $250+ basket. You will probally be able to get away with stock springs too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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