troyminator

Alright! Got those bastards out! Didn't damage any thing either I put the hubs in the oven at 100C for about 10 mins and poped those suckers out! Getting close to sending stuff out now Thanks for the advice guys! I'll post pics when I get things back, and along the way! T

Thanks for all the information guys. I will work to get those lil' bastards out! As for the PCer, I am going to use a guy that works on Banshee frames all the time in San Diego. Don't want to ship cross country. Too much $$ Thanks again! T

Hello All, I am going to powdercoat my front and rear hubs while other things are getting powdercoated. Do I need to remove the bearnigs...or just the seals? Those damn things are hard to get out and are piss'n me off Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, T

Thanks CEJ and JKJK! I'll look into the o-rings and then go from there and see if I need to do any sanding. Thanks again! -T

Hello, I pulled off my steering stem and noticed that there is some wear in the area around the seals that appears that it was wearing. I noticed before when I rode that there was some front to back movement on the handlebars and I am guessing that this is the reason. Is this normal, or do I need to replace it? Thanks! T

These are parts I took off my banshee. The grooves were already done to them when I got my bike. It came off a 93' Banshee. It will come with the clamps pictured to mount to your frame. I don't believe there are any other modifications required to get this to fit. As you can see in the picture, the axle plate has a bend in it, but it could be hammered out. The pictures show it had done it's job...protect the bike. PM me with offers.

I have the foam and grey seat cover for a banshee that I no longer need. The foam is a desert seat (meaning it is taller than stock). The cushion is Med-Firm. The cover doesn't have any tears or cuts. The foam will fit directly onto your stock seat base. Normal "wear" marks on the area where my leg would rub near the tank. Will let you see over the dunes a bit more. PM me with offers.

I have a set of front and rear plastics (including the radiator cover and polished radiator insert) for sale. PM me with reasonable offers. As for trades, I will entertain offers other than plastics.

So no pic's guys. Trying to PM ya, but your box if full. T

That's a great idea! Thanks, T

Anyone?

Hey guys, I have a 96 blaster as a spare bike and the top end finally went out this weekend. I pulled the head off today and noticed that the piston was seized and had been "shaving" off material off of the piston on the exhaust port of the cylinder. I was going to take the cylinder to be bored out to the next size, so here are my questions: - I couldn't physically see any metal debris in the crank...but you can't really see too much anyhow, so do I need to split the cases and clean everything out or will it be fine...The cylinder definitely had metal shavings in it...and it looked as if the exhaust ports had extra metal where it "shaved" material off of the top of the piston - Also, is there any way to flush stuff out of the crank area without splitting the cases? - If I decided to get the cylinder port/polished, would there be other stuff required to get the bike to run right...it has a bill's pipe on it (diff carb?, etc) - Will I be safe to just rebuild the top end with a new piston/boring out to the next piston size? I know that it isn't a banshee, but it is a Yamaha, so I figured allot of you guys may have these bikes for your wife/kids...so your help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks again, T

I don't want to answer for Jim...but I know that he did offer resleeving when my motor was done. Just PM him. He is great at responding to his PM's. T

I painted my cylinders with the same paint and clear coated em..(high temp paint of course)...but it seems like if I spray carb clearner near them...they want to begin to run.

I know that there are allot of post to go over clutch adjustment problems Clutch Mechanism Adjustment , WTF!!! was one with allot of useful tips...but I still need help. I fried my last clutch. Here is the post about this: High RPM Clutch Slipping Now I got new fibers and steel plates. - I soaked them in oil for >30mins - I installed them into the basket (Started with friction plate, then steel plate, etc etc) - I put the pushrod into the clutch hub opening (with a dab of lithuim grease on both ends) - I placed the ball into the hub opening - Next, I Put the the clutch inner hub onto the clutch basket. (The little arrow on the hub is lined up with the arror on the basket) - I carefully tigtened all of the bolts with the springs (1/4 turn at a time) - I loosed the clutch cable all the way to the perch...I tried doing it with the cable out, but I wanted to be able to pull on it with the clutch lever. - I tried to push little metal lever on the top of the clutch case (Is it always so hard to push? Had to almost pry it with a screw driver to get enough leverage ) - I tried to adjust the center adjustment bolt to get the arrows to line up with the metal lever and case arrow, but I am pretty much all the way in, almost have no threads left for the lock nut. Something doesn't seem right ??? What am I doing wrong? I don't have the rubber cushions on the clutch. I just tightened the spring bolts until they were at 10 N-m. For one, I think I am going to need a new adjustment bolt...my current one is beginning to strip (Damn Phillips head! ) Please help. I don't want to burn up another clutch! Thanks! T

Well I got stuff appart tonight. Definitely burnt the clutch. I see black debris in the area...and I don't remember exactly what the plates looked like before, but they are black now...and don't have much difference between the thickness of the area where there were raised pads vs. the valleys between the pads. All the ball and rod were OK. I am gonig to get a new seal for the oring around the water pump opening port that goes into the clutch cover, but other than that...I don't see anything else that could have been wrong. My plans are to get a new clutch...probably just the heavy duty barnett again...but this time use all stiff springs...I will also get a new clutch cable...and this time adjust the screw with the clutch perch adjustment screw all the way in (As loose as possible right?) If I have it all the way in, how will I get the play at the lever onc I get the bolt adjusted in the clutch? Wish me luck. If there is any secret tip that you guys use when adjusting the clutch, please let me know. Thanks! T

The bike was just rebuilt. I did the assembly work myself. I was real careful to make sure that everything was put in according to the clymers. I did make the mistake of adjusting the clutch bolt with the perch all the way out....which didn't leave me any room for tightening it up after it begins to break in. The clutch was slipping really bad out there once the bike RPM's were getting high. The crank was a brand new stroker crank. All the seals were new. Clutch was new. Basically a new engine. I broke it in really easy for an entire day and 1/2. Then when I started to get on it, it would start to Rev out. I tried to play with the adjustment at the lever...it helped a little with the slipping, but I had to let the clutch all the way out before the bike would begin to move...I know that aint good The entire oil isn't white, just some streaks of a whitish looking color. The oil was brand new 85W Maxima Clutch Saver Formula. It was a translucent brownish color, but now it is "greyish" with some small swirl marks that look more of a creme color than straight white. One thing for sure is that the oil STINKS really bad like a burnt smell. Hopefully I can tear into the clutch tonight to see what I see there. Is there another test I should do first? Thanks! T

Thanks Jim, I didn't pull the clutch cover off yet, so I don't know what the plates look like yet. The oil had a grey tint to it...and kind of had some whitish looking swirls. I don't know if that is just some of the burnt residue or what. My coolant level hasn't changed, so I don't think there is anything getting into the oil. Thanks again, T

Well, I finally got a chance to get my bike off the trailer (Been toooo busy at work). I started to drain the oil and put a coffee filter to see if there was any metal debris. I didn't see any metal, but the oil smells really really bad (Burnt smell). I am assuming that this is because of the slipping (Is that a correct thought?). How do I check to make sure that my clutch is OK? As always, any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, T

Linc, You should be able to check for a leak with some carb cleaner around the outiside of the intakes... Are you using POD filters? I have seen sand sucked in from them damn things too... I didn't use any sealer...just the gaskets...they were designed to use the gaskets, so if the gaskets are new...and the surfaces are clean, you should be fine. L8R, T

F-B, do you think that having the cable adjusted all the way out when lining up the arrows will make much difference? I did remove the cushions. I read allot of posts about that. They are removed. Any other thoughts? Thanks, T

I did a search and read through allot of clutch slipping posts, but I am hoping to get more information. Background: I just got my bike together with the Passion Stroker, lightened flywheel, +4 timing, new barnet clutch and I took it out two weekends ago. I broke the bike in for the first day...not really getting on the power at all. The next day, I started to get on the gas a bit more. The bike really wanted to go. I did a plug chop and noticed that my bike looked like it was running a little rich, but that was not the big problem.... When I would get into high RPM's, the bike would begin to Rev Out, but the bike didn't want to move much more once it hit the power band. The plugs don't look lean. I think that the clutch was slipping. So here is where I think I went wrong...but please give me any feedback. When I was putting the clutch in and doing the initial adjustment (to get the arrows on the case lined up) I mis-read the clymer and adjusted the clutch lever all the way out (Tigtening the clutch cable) and then adjusted the clutch bolt and locknut until the arrows lined up. So... now I tried to loosen the clutch up, but then I had to let the clutch almost all the way out before the bike would begin to move. There was slack in the cable at the perch...but it still wanted to slip once it hit high RPM. As for the clutch springs, I alternated each spring between the Heavy Duty Springs and the stock springs. Also, I am using 80W MTL Maxima Trans Fluid What do I need to do? - Should I get a new cable? - Should I re-adjust the clutch with the adjustment nut turned all the way in? - Is there another oil I should be using? - Do I need to install all of the stiff springs? - Is there another way that you set up the clutch adjustment? If so, please share. I am hoping that other people with the passion stroker have had similar experiences and can shed some light on potential solutions. Thanks for the help!!! T

Too damn funny!

Also check to see if there is any water in the coil connectors...my wifes bike had a leak on radiator...and fluid got into the coil...it ran like crapola until I cleaned out the connectors. Good luck! Let us know what you find. T

I had the pj34's with just a standard ported motor and they did idle fine. I just got my passion motor put together and was wondering about the idle setup. I know that Jim told me not to worry about the idle until the jetting was done right...but I wanted to be prepared. I am going to try to get it broke in and attempt some jetting this weekend. On another note, my bike idle'd before with two different settings on the carbs. Like I said...one was 7-3/4 and the other was all the way in. I don't know if that means my screws on the top of the carbs are adjusted differently, but that is how it was setup. Is this something I should worry about? Thanks, T