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Posted

ok, so if you missed my last post about my banshee, i stated that it would not kick over, nor would it turn over comp starting it, so today i took it apart a little bit, i tore off everything to get the motor out, but then stoped and decided to check the clutch first, everything checked out ok under the clutch cover.....so it wasnt just a bolt holding it, i can turn the engine in reverse direction that it would normally run at, but as soon as it hits the spot of me turning it forward to much, it just seizes, i thought i heard my pistons moving in the jugs so i pulled a plug out, it was black, somewhat oily, and it had a fine grit over alll of it, and in the oil that was on it, not sure what that means, now i know its not a bolt backed out and messing with my cllutch so i cant turn it over, and the pistons are moving when you turn it over backwards, but i cant turn it over the proper way, oh and its not in the magneto eiither,

 

help please!!! IT WAS AROUND 80 TODAY AND I COULDNT RIDE MY NEW BANSHEE banghead

 

sorry for all the errors if i didnt get them, im really tired, and well i must sayt aht ive been hitting a friend called rum and another called vodka all night :cheers:

 

later

wade

Posted

was the fine grit a silver color? If so thats probably piston material. Look in your exhaust port to see if you have a ring hanging up, or in your intakes to see if the rings hanging up there. I'd at least pull the head, your gonna need to go that far anyway

Posted

After you got the jugs off, turn it over by hand and check to see if the tranny is hanging up...You're probly going to need to split the cases so pick up a manual and give it a good lookin' at.

Posted

ok, its the tranny or crank that is sticking, i dont think the pistons are, but i have no idea the history of this bike, so i figure what the hell, do an entire rebuild on her, and while im at it put in some performance stuff.

 

thanks for the help

 

wade

 

oh ps. the grit on the spark plug was a silver color, but it had a bit of carbon on it to! later

wade

Posted

Silver specs on the plugs indicate detonation which means you have a hole in the piston or melted the top of the piston severly...most like you need a rebuild. Pull the head off, takes 5 minutes and once you see inside. YOU"LL KNOW.....

Posted

well it took me a total of like 9 minutes(j./k) to get the head off, but its off now, i dont really ahve a piston in the right jug anymore, you can still tell a little but not alot,

 

so then,

 

who wants to reccomend parts?>

 

looking at around 200 to spend rebuilding it, i want to go with a big bore, but i dont think ill have the money till around august so mabey ill do that in the winter,

 

im thinking about just getting a weisco piston set at .040 over, ( already been bored once i belive) and putting on a coolhead/noss head at the same time i do that, but i need to fix whatever is wrong with the tranny

( most likely peices of my piston in my crank) and then i need to get the crank rebuilt trued and welded.

 

sounds like fun!

 

later

wade :lol:

Posted

You aren't gonna get it rebuilt for $200. Your loking at some serious $$$$ on this one...... First off, you need to get the cylinders checked. "I think" doesn't cut it when checking for bore sizes..... You need to be sure. My recommendation would be to take them to your local boring shop. Have them checked. Then, decide what size piston kit you need. You can get a Wiseco top end kit for $150. Now, you won't have anything in the tranny from the crank, or the piston(s). They are 2 seperate entities. My best guess is that you don't have anything wrong in the transmission. The rotating the crank one way, and having it go completely around can be due to stuff being stuck in the rod bearing, and turning it one way, it doesn't catch on anything, an turning it the other way it catches on something... So, you also need to buy a lower end gasket set. Around $40-$50. And a tube of Yamabond 4. $7.50. Pull the motor down, split the cases. Get the crank out. Have a look see. You will notice debris in the lower rod (big end) bearings most likely. This 95% of the time occurs with complete piston failure. Now, you have to either get the crank rebuilt, (about $350-$400) or get a new Wiseco replacement. (about the same price). Get that, get your cylinders bored, and put it all back together. Ready to ride. Now, you have another option. You can have the motor that everyone dreams of. Your crank is most likely junk. (if it is, read further, if not, than just do a top end) Contact Jim at Passion Racing Engines, or any other reputable builder. Get yourself a 4MM stroker crank. This should cost you around $550 at the most. Have the cylinders ported for your riding style. (MX, dune, drag, whatever). You will have to have them bored anyways, and they need to be bored when they are ported. So, why waste a bore job? Get it all back, and for a few scoots extra, you can have a RIPPIN motor!!!!!! :clap::drool: It's up to you....

Posted

Boon, I think your scaring him..... :unsure: I'd pull the cylinders and have them checked out like Boony said to see how much you'll have to bore it to clean them cylinders up....Once you pull the cylinders. (which will take about 15-20 minutes :P ) then you can move the rods back and forth to see if one of them is siezed or moving hard. If so, then you need the crank rebuilt or buy another one...If they both move freely w/ no up/down movement on the crank, then you just have to flush it out thoroughly which will only cost you a lower gasket ....Keep diggin and let us know what you find...

Posted

these two guys know there shizzle.i recently rebuilt my motor and failed to check the crank. do yourself a favor and split the cases now and check the crank and make sure all the bearings are good. or do what i did put it back together and find out the bearing is bad afterwards.. that really sucks worse because now u gotta take the topend back off and all the electrical and coolant lines ,flywheel off ect ect then split the cases to find a bearing was bad.. it blows i just went through it and if i lose a topend again i will check the bottom just to be sure. the initial reason i didn't check the lower end was because it was spinning freely so i figured naa it's all good. but man do yourself a favor and check the crank .

Posted (edited)

Exact same thing happened to me. The crank would turn backwards but not fowards. Turned out that it was getting hung up on pistion material. The crank cleaned up well but i didnt want to trust it, so rather than buy a new one I went with boonmans second option.

You should also try to find out what caused the pistion to fail, so you dont have a repeat eposide on your hands. Mine turned out to be the carb getting cloged up causing one side to run lean

Edited by XTShee
Posted

I completely agree with these guys; listen to boon, Banchetta and reas. At the very least you need to pull the jugs and inspect the crank, but you may still be looking at splitting the cases. A topend alone will set you back $220-$250 MINIMUM...sorry.

 

The only thing I would add is: find the problem. Once you get the damage repaired, you gotta find out what it was that caused the meltdown so it doesn't happen again. If it was deto, your head may be shaved and may or may not have work done on the domes; at the very least you'll need to run higher octane fuel, and at best invest in a new coolhead. Good luck.

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