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Backfiring, Excess Smoke


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Since it's recently been colder(around 10 degrees), shee doesn't seem to want to go.

 

My problem is that I have to choke it(full) everytime to start it, and when it does finally start it doesn't want to idle at all, sometimes the left pipe backfires and sometimes the right, and even both at times. I was jetted at what seemed to be great when it was about 40 degrees outside. I even tried putting the airbox lid back on to richen it a bit, and to me it seemed to stop the popping some, but I never got it to idle at all.

 

I have 330 mains w/T-5's, K&N, at about 750 ft. above sea level, and had the airscrews 1.5 turns out, but I tried adjusting those with no luck.

 

I have a set of 340 along with smaller sizes, I think it's acting lean. I really wanted another opinion about it.

 

Thanks,

 

 

Josh

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O.K., Now I REALLY need help. I put the 340's in and it's pretty much doing the same exact thing. No matter what I adjust it backfires and I can never get it to idle. When I say backfire, I mean back- FIRE! There's probably a 1-2 inch flame coming from the tip of the silencer along with the loud Popping.

I've tried synching(spelling?) the carbs, new plugs, completely cleaning carbs, clean air filter, adjusting air screws, and adjusting idle screws.

 

I don't know what else to do besides get a larger pilot. But I don't understand how one size can make everything so messed up. Thanks,

 

Josh

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i dont think putting in bigger mains is going to help your idle problem. sounds like you may have a clog in the pilot, or you may need bigger pilots.

 

you can try turning the mixture screws IN while it's running to see if it starts to idle. turning the screws in will richen the pilot (idle) circuit. if it gets better when turning them in you should probably step up the pilots.

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Most likely you need larger pilots...put a 27.5 in there and go from there. You should see better results by turning the air screws in to .5 turn out....your mains ONLY control wide open throttle and have nothing to do w/ idle.....

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Have you checked the compression? Thats an outstanding indicator of the internals of your engine. I would start by unplugging your TORS and your parking brake. When you cleaned your carbs did you actually remove them and spray the shit out of them, remove the mains and pilots and spray/soak them as well? Soak your jets in ammonia, straight. That removes everything caked in there. After you do this, re-sync your carbs, again put in new plugs, check your compression and tell us what is doing.

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Rev limiter?

Nah that wont explain the not idleing..

Maybe your timing is somehow off?

do you have a degree key or adjustable stator plate?

choke tube connected?

I think it's the timing too. Check the flywheel for tightness and if it's not loose, pull it and check the timing plate. It's sounds like the timing plate is loose. Even if it's not the timing, you still need to check it. I had a friend that had a timing plate screw come loose and chewed up the stator and the flywheel. He thought he burned up the motor and was gonna sell it for a couple thousand. Good thing he pulled the flywheel. He managed to fix it up for a couple hundred instead of taking a hit on the whole quad.

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I would be suspect first of the TORS system. Being that you can't get it to idle, which may be due to a clogged or lean pilot you are trying to give it throttle. The TORS may be cutting the ignition and causing the shit to go down. Now, first, you should try the 27.5 pilots and then disable the TORS to eliminate that. Then, check to make sure that the slides are in their proper carb. With the cutaway facing the air cleaner(s). Next, if that don't work, pull the shifter and footpeg and stator cover and check the flywheel. You may have sheared the key.... The flames lead me to believe that it is a timing issue. However, I have seen flames with carb issues as well. Mostly when combined with the timing thing as well. You need to go over the entire setup. Make SURE the carbs are clean. Use compresed air and cleaner...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm really running out of ideas with this. I still can't get it to idle but I've slowed the backfiring down a lot. I finally received the pilot jets from my stealership after I got the run around and was told they've never seen them before. I got 30's and 32.5's, I put the 30's in thinking that it'd been plenty big enough but she still won't idle worth a crap.

I've tried unplugging the T.O.R.S box under the tank, but then shee screamed when sitting still. I've tried adjusting the air screws with the 30's in and shee still doesn't act like shee's any closer to idle. I've also tried bigger jets(don't know why) with no luck so I put 330's back in. I've tried adjusting the idle screws, which I think are crap anyway. I've synched the carbs everytime I've taken them apart. And when I took the carbs apart I cleaned both of them inside and out with compressed air! What I don't understand is that shee ran almost PERFECTLY, until the throttle froze over during a night of really cold riding. I re-lubed the cable, with WD40 first then white grease. I REALLY appreciate all of the help so far and am considering any more helpful opinions. Thanks guys(sorry for the book),

 

 

Josh

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I've tried unplugging the T.O.R.S box under the tank, but then shee screamed when sitting still.

 

Whoomp, there it is. You have a slide stuck open. The TORS system is limiting the ignition so that the bike doesn't rev when sitting still. you can still ride it, because once you hit the throttle, the TORS system senses that you have done so. The only way that the TORS system will limit revving up, or riding when you try to use the throttle is if the parking brake is on. Are the slides in the correct carb? I think this has to do with carburetion being that you said that when you unplugged the TORS system brain box under the tank, the engine revved to the moon..... I would be suspect of that.... Give the carbs a good cleanin....

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