Ssantoni73 Posted November 7, 2017 Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 (edited) New to the site and looking for help getting spark out of my banshee. I bought it apart rebuilt top end and new seals, put engine in no spark, put in new wire harness because old one was hacked. Has new coil, cdi, timing plate stator, tors is completely unhooked. Was reading about cleaning surface under coil and running a ground wire from coil to head stud, can someone shed a little more light on this for me please? Edited November 7, 2017 by Ssantoni73 Turn on notifications Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted November 7, 2017 Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 Redundant grounds are never a bad idea. That being said if all else is completely up to par, the coil will work completely isolated from the frame. The clean metal to metal mount that is recommended for the coil is for heat dissipation. (I'm sure some opinions will differ) Back to your problem...do you still have a key switch? If not has it been jumped properly? Red/black connected to Black. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeMachining Posted November 7, 2017 Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 There is a nice write up about ground made by Brandon from Mull Engineering, so it will save me explainations ;+)This is my setup.Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted November 7, 2017 Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 (edited) ive never understood all the extra grounds, only ground ive ever ran is from my kill switch and the coil and plugs that are grounded to begin with, tons of people I know (and read on here) don't run them and don't have any problems. I doubt that's why ur not getting spark but what do I know Edited November 7, 2017 by Ayesully810 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keno Posted November 7, 2017 Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 If it is not an oem stator, verify that the wires are in the plug correctly. Like green to green, red to red, ect. Also if you have a key, verify that it still works. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssantoni73 Posted November 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 9 hours ago, hoppedupandcutdown said: Redundant grounds are never a bad idea. That being said if all else is completely up to par, the coil will work completely isolated from the frame. The clean metal to metal mount that is recommended for the coil is for heat dissipation. (I'm sure some opinions will differ) Back to your problem...do you still have a key switch? If not has it been jumped properly? Red/black connected to Black. I will check tomorrow morning. I had the right wires on the key jumped black to black/red, tried a ground wire still no spark. The stator wires match on both sides of plug... the cdi is after market... any bad reps on them? Kind of looks like a cheap make to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssantoni73 Posted November 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 Forgot to mention that the stator had diesel fuel on it from when i soaked the bottom end in fuel to clean out the dirt and metal shavings but internals looked fine when i split the casing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted November 8, 2017 Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 When it comes to electrical oem is the way to go you will hear ppl say ive got a rs stator etc its fine but anecdotal evidence has shown oem is king. Did u ohm test all electrical?Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted November 8, 2017 Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 I am sure I went over proper grounding at some point. I will just point out that regardless of if something "works", grounding is many times used for protection of circuits and humans. Solid state circuits can get zapped by stray voltage. I remember a very sharp engineer I worked with that did not understand why I insisted on a safety ground on an AC motor driven machine because it was working just fine. Only 2mo later someone got a nasty shock from that machine because the wiring had made contact with ground and energized the chassis. It is never a bad idea to keep negative/neutral/ground all at the same potential.....0V As to the OP question, I would first be testing the stator performance before anything else, then work forward. As well, IIRC, the CDI only has one kill circuit in which if I remember correct, if the black/white is connected to the black, the CDI will not fire. That should serve as a simple way to verify the CDI is in "on" mode. This works back through the TORS, key switch, and bar switch. On later models, there is an additional "rev limit" circuit for the park brake but will still allow an idle start. Question, I have toyed at the idea of building and offering a plug-in stator/pickup coil tester since a simple ohm meter does not tell the whole story and most people do not have an oscilloscope around. Would that be of interest to anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeMachining Posted November 8, 2017 Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 15 minutes ago, blowit said: I am sure I went over proper grounding at some point. I will just point out that regardless of if something "works", grounding is many times used for protection of circuits and humans. Solid state circuits can get zapped by stray voltage. I remember a very sharp engineer I worked with that did not understand why I insisted on a safety ground on an AC motor driven machine because it was working just fine. Only 2mo later someone got a nasty shock from that machine because the wiring had made contact with ground and energized the chassis. It is never a bad idea to keep negative/neutral/ground all at the same potential.....0V As to the OP question, I would first be testing the stator performance before anything else, then work forward. As well, IIRC, the CDI only has one kill circuit in which if I remember correct, if the black/white is connected to the black, the CDI will not fire. That should serve as a simple way to verify the CDI is in "on" mode. This works back through the TORS, key switch, and bar switch. On later models, there is an additional "rev limit" circuit for the park brake but will still allow an idle start. Question, I have toyed at the idea of building and offering a plug-in stator/pickup coil tester since a simple ohm meter does not tell the whole story and most people do not have an oscilloscope around. Would that be of interest to anyone? Me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianshee Posted November 8, 2017 Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 I am sure I went over proper grounding at some point. I will just point out that regardless of if something "works", grounding is many times used for protection of circuits and humans. Solid state circuits can get zapped by stray voltage. I remember a very sharp engineer I worked with that did not understand why I insisted on a safety ground on an AC motor driven machine because it was working just fine. Only 2mo later someone got a nasty shock from that machine because the wiring had made contact with ground and energized the chassis. It is never a bad idea to keep negative/neutral/ground all at the same potential.....0V As to the OP question, I would first be testing the stator performance before anything else, then work forward. As well, IIRC, the CDI only has one kill circuit in which if I remember correct, if the black/white is connected to the black, the CDI will not fire. That should serve as a simple way to verify the CDI is in "on" mode. This works back through the TORS, key switch, and bar switch. On later models, there is an additional "rev limit" circuit for the park brake but will still allow an idle start. Question, I have toyed at the idea of building and offering a plug-in stator/pickup coil tester since a simple ohm meter does not tell the whole story and most people do not have an oscilloscope around. Would that be of interest to anyone? I would be. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawa110 Posted November 8, 2017 Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 Interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssantoni73 Posted November 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 I tested the stator wires was at 120.8 at the stator end and at the cdu end of the harness.. coil came to .7 i have power to the lights. How can i test the kill switch, ignition switch and cdi? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted November 8, 2017 Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 The thumb switch needs no continuity to start The key switch needs continuity to start. No test for the CDI but to switch with a known working one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted November 8, 2017 Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 Stator resistance: Ignition coil should be 13.7-20.5 Ohms (red to green wire) Pickup coil should be 94-140 Ohms (white/red to white/green wire) Lighting coil should be 0.26-0.38 Ohms (black to yellow wire) Coil resistance: Primary coil should be 0.28-0.38 Ohms Secondary coil should be 4,700-7,100 Ohms 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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