Ssantoni73

I adjusted the floats still floods when its not running and fuels on. But when i go to start it cold it gets no fuel so i put my hand over a carb to vacuum fuel then it will fire, but once it is warm it flood my cylinders and i have to clean my plugs then it fires right up... i bought 27.5 and 30 pilot jets is it worth throwing in a 27.5? My elevation is 207' in case that matters. I checked to make sure the floats closed by putting air on the fuel line and moving the floats up they seal then open when pulled down. Im sure its a 200 main would the main jet cause starting issues? And ill get rid of the boost bottle. I was going to get new intake boots and billet intake along with vforce4 reeds

I need help!! I just got my rebuilt banshee running it floods out of the overflow on the bowl, floods cylinders. I have spark, good compression and definitely have fuel. Cleaned carbs 3 times. Sometimes starts when it is cold. When it runs, it runs great and no issues until i shut it off it will sometimes start, just noticed a cylinder shut down until i messed with the petcock but have a new petcock on the way. Mods are dg fattys, fmf silencers, boyesen reeds, boost bottle, head was decked and have 2 k&n style air pods on the carbs. Has i think stock carbs and jets are 200 main 25 pilot and have needle clip on second spot up from the bottom and mix screw is at 3/4 turn out because that is where it ran best. Any help please! I have the bowls on the right carb and did check that the needles and floats are good.

I tested the wire harness and stator they test good. I tested the keyswitch and it didnt pull any numbers so i cut the harness wires and tied the black wire to the red and black wire. I pull my killseitch apart and found that the black ground wire was broken at the solder but with that broken i just wouldnt be able to kill the engine right? Do the plugs both need to be grounded to spark? I have a dynatek cdi and coil on its way. Hopefully that is the cure. Got it fired up key switch turned out bad. Now to put it together. Thank you guys for all the help along the way

I tested the wire harness and stator they test good. I tested the keyswitch and it didnt pull any numbers so i cut the harness wires and tied the black wire to the red and black wire. I pull my killseitch apart and found that the black ground wire was broken at the solder but with that broken i just wouldnt be able to kill the engine right? Do the plugs both need to be grounded to spark? I have a dynatek cdi and coil on its way. Hopefully that is the cure.

How do i test the key switch and kill switch to rule out for a no spark? Also i can use my test light on stator wires for lighting can i use it on pickup wires from stator? If so im not getting anything from those wires

Yea it didnt work lol i bought a new flywheel no spark im going to try the new cdi on my lunch break... this thing is getting so frustrating. The flywheel has play in it with the key, that wouldnt cause no spark by chance would it? Also when i got the bike the stator was soaked in diesel fuel with the motor to clean out the engine, could that cause no spark but still have power to my lights?

I had power to the lights from the stator through the yellow wire so i ran it to orange wire that runs to the coil. I still didnt have spark. The stator tested to spec on ohms and coil seemed to test good as well but with power to the coil i still had no spark or power to the plugs. Im new to testing electrical systems but understand it to a degree lol. I guess i will try a flywheel and see where it takes me.

I checked my flywheel today shook it, sounded like 2 pieces of metal inside rattling, is that normal? Also since i had power to lights i ran the yellow wire from stator to orange wire had power to coil but none out of coil and tried running that wire to the wires in the cdi harness to see if it would push power to the coil and got nothing, would this be the cdi?

I tested the stator wires was at 120.8 at the stator end and at the cdu end of the harness.. coil came to .7 i have power to the lights. How can i test the kill switch, ignition switch and cdi?

Forgot to mention that the stator had diesel fuel on it from when i soaked the bottom end in fuel to clean out the dirt and metal shavings but internals looked fine when i split the casing

I will check tomorrow morning. I had the right wires on the key jumped black to black/red, tried a ground wire still no spark. The stator wires match on both sides of plug... the cdi is after market... any bad reps on them? Kind of looks like a cheap make to me

New to the site and looking for help getting spark out of my banshee. I bought it apart rebuilt top end and new seals, put engine in no spark, put in new wire harness because old one was hacked. Has new coil, cdi, timing plate stator, tors is completely unhooked. Was reading about cleaning surface under coil and running a ground wire from coil to head stud, can someone shed a little more light on this for me please?