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Posted

Ok so here it goes, yesterday I was riding around and noticed it was smoking more from the right a lot more then the left from looking at the back of the bike. So today I pulled the seat off and removed filters and proceeded to sync the carbs the right slide was way out of sync the slide lifting before the left got those pretty close "by eye" but they were not lifting all the way up at WOT the culprit there was the set screw on the throttle it's self. Now they fully lift. Checked the pilot mix screws and they were both 1 3/4 turns out threw everything back together and my smoke issue seemed to clear up but now it seems to have lost it's power up top, not seeing the power band until 4th or 5th gear just runs flat it seems.

My mods

Fmf fattys power core 2 mufflers 

Coolhead unknown domes

Modified stator plate set at stock timing

K&n pods no air box

V3 reeds 

Stock carbs 

Boost bottle 

Posted

Running air box? Pods? Outerwear? Everything clean? Reeds in good shape? It was running good and then it quit running good? Plugs good? Solid spark?


Giving away "TSS" for FREE!!!

Posted

Id pull carbs/intake and check reeds. Might have a broken/bad reed which would make bike act real lazy. V3 are notorious for fraying on the corners or the pedals.

Posted

Didn't pull the reeds will do this in the morning. Running no box with pods, carbs are good and clean plugs are good, main jets are 300 and pilots are 30 needles are set at 4th groove down from top, I'll check reeds in the morning

Posted

Ok pulled the reeds out today they look fine as well, while tearing everything down noticed the intake boots have some cracks in them up where the boost bottle nipples are, can't tell if they go all the way through or not so I'll replace those, when I put it all back together I took it for a ride still the same results. Witch I expected, scratching my head wondering wtf I set my throttle stop to stop the slides about 1/4" from WOT took it for another ride and it running about the same as before, except now it's idling lol it has the tors delete..... with no idle kit lol so I have an air leak I'm betting on gaskets from pulling the reeds, but the boots are cracked so I'm going to replace all that..... Now on the lazy top end. I'm assuming it's not jetted properly on the main gonna order some and see what's up. Going to get a bunch of plugs and do some chops and see where that goes. But when I don't let it open to WOT it's running better... So getting to much air and not enough fuel???

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Posted

I'd tackle 1 issue at a time... Replace your intakes and do a leakdown before you start it again

 

Then if it passed, I'd try it just how it is as you would have gotten rid of an issue.  Then onto jetting or electrical.

Posted
I'd tackle 1 issue at a time... Replace your intakes and do a leakdown before you start it again
 
Then if it passed, I'd try it just how it is as you would have gotten rid of an issue.  Then onto jetting or electrical.
10/4 that's the plan

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Posted
On Monday, August 21, 2017 at 6:09 PM, hotrod9193 said:

This is what the plugs look like f0f69d473c7665f1430c6f259eb14046.jpg

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Plug looks pretty gray. What's the other side look like? Might have an air leak but I'm gonna bet you have and ignition problem. Coil maybe cdi. Reason I say that is you have no color coming off your strap on that plug. Start by pulling spark plug boots off the wire spray them out with carb clean or brake clean. Cut the wire back about 1/2" and screw the boots back on. Then go to coil and cdi if that doesn't help.. jmo

Posted
Plug looks pretty gray. What's the other side look like? Might have an air leak but I'm gonna bet you have and ignition problem. Coil maybe cdi. Reason I say that is you have no color coming off your strap on that plug. Start by pulling spark plug boots off the wire spray them out with carb clean or brake clean. Cut the wire back about 1/2" and screw the boots back on. Then go to coil and cdi if that doesn't help.. jmo
Ok I'll do that when I get back to days off. Gotta find the info on how to test coil and cdi

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