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Stator test results


R0dd

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I think at this point I would go ahead and get the stator out and test it out of the bike.  If it still reads low, clip the wires close to the stator so you can eliminate the wiring as the problem.  If it still tests the same, shit can it and snag another.  

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  • 4 years later...

hello i have a question. i just got a OEM Stator from the used market. i purchased it, because i want to convert it to DC current, in order that the other Stator stays untouched, if something goes badly wrong. the Ignition coil of this stator is within the specs. the pick-up coil cannot be testet, because its missing. the OHMs of Lighting Coil (Black & Yellow wires) i cannot read too for some reason. i tried several times, but without success. is it because the pick-up coil is missing or the stator isn't connected to the CDI?

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No shouldnt be connected to cdi, Un plug all plugs

Pick up shouldnt effect it, should only trigger your coil to fire iirc

Should be getting .26-.38 on lighting

Probably  an open in the  lighting windings you have piercers ?

check close to the base, to see if its cut in the tails or plug pins are bad.

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hey 375hp banshees, long not seen. 

the stator isn't installed, so the ground wire is lose and not connected to anything (stator plate or engine case), maybe that's the reason why do not get any results.

the wires seem to be all OK under the shrink tube. nothing rubbed off.

but i testet it anyway at the areas market on the image below. 

 

Stator.jpg

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i will check that once again in a couple of days, while the Stator is installed. never removed the stator cover, since i bought the banshees 2 years ago. need a couple of more tools. 

a proper impact driver is already on the list, but the needed 17mm stator puller i already have!

thanks 375hp

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  • 2 weeks later...

it seems, the stator needs to be mounted to its place, to get measuring data from the Ground and Lighning Coil. luckily it is within the specs and i didn't got rubbish :)

i already floated the ground wire, made it hot. today i will mount the DC coversion Kit that i got from South Texas Banshee. his tutorial how to float the stator was immensely helpful too. hope everthying works as expected, lights/hazards without engine on and the darn Horn, which is necessary here for a street legal ATV. the frickin Stator even isn't powerful enough to make a horn work lol.

 

final result. neat work i would say! i just used a 15cm wire as a bridge

Gefloated-2a.jpg

 

Edited by Qliphoth
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5 hours ago, Qliphoth said:

it seems, the stator needs to be mounted to its place, to get measuring data from the Ground and Lighning Coil. luckily it is within the specs and i didn't got rubbish :)

i already floated the ground wire, made it hot. today i will mount the DC coversion Kit that i got from South Texas Banshee. his tutorial how to float the stator was immensely helpful too. hope everthying works as expected, lights/hazards without engine on and the darn Horn, which is necessary here for a street legal ATV. the frickin Stator even isn't powerful enough to make a horn work lol.

 

final result. neat work i would say! i just used a 15cm wire as a bridge

Gefloated-2a.jpg

 

Only because you removed the ground strap/screw ( so - windings werent grounded) thats why i said test to stator plate/ base ... glad you didnt get screw'd & figured it out!

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the DC Kit from STB works so far. Lights, Horn ect. over ignition switch, while the engine is off. no flickering lights but constant light beam. that's what i wanted 😀

unfortunateley i wasn't able to check everything yet, if the stator also works and if the battery gets charged to. i removed the clutch before that, because it's probably worn out and needs to be replaced. the weird behavior the engine makes when accelerating, points out the clutch is slipping, they told my in another forum. 

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the DC Kit from STB works so far. Lights, Horn ect. over ignition switch, while the engine is off. no flickering lights but constant light beam. that's what i wanted 
unfortunateley i wasn't able to check everything yet, if the stator also works and if the battery gets charged to. i removed the clutch before that, because it's probably worn out and needs to be replaced. the weird behavior the engine makes when accelerating, points out the clutch is slipping, they told my in another forum. 
WHAT you're cheating on the HQ!



Oh wait I bet you could easily load a nice big video over there, so people could see & give pointers... carry-on




~no management here

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

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haha yeah indeed sort of "cheater". to be honest, i got the Banshee from the Dealer delivered around two years ago, already with Speedometer (runs over internal Battery), LED Winker/Hazard lights/Taillight combo, rear-view mirrors and a Horn installed. the winkers/blinkers are so small, that you would not notice it ;). the stock taillight were converted to "rear fog lamps". so the main harness already was modified, but it still ran over the OEM stator (AC) without battery. okay it works, but in my book, this was a half-assed street legal conversion, just because of the missing battery. the horn HAS to work, also the hazard lights has to work when the engine is off, before i need to go to the TUV (Technical Inspection Association) for the first time. this check is needed here for most vehicles within a two years interval, but that's a different story. i dunno how it's regulated in the states!

anyway...this plug & play DC Kit from STW was perfect for me. the only negative thing, it was not cheap. alltogether, with shipping costs, customs and paypal fees, the stuff cost me around 280,00 USD in the end. if STB would drop the price only 10 bucks for Europe based customers, customs will not be charged (free to 150,00 Euros). but if everthing works long term at least, it was worth anyway.

there's not much to see, but i will make video soon if this helps others. which parts were installed and so on. after i find time when everthing is put together and ready for the summer season. 

Edited by Qliphoth
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