Motooutcastxxx Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Try this out, familiarize yourself with everything before you start, hell you could probably just reverse the steps and you'd be good to go. This is exactly what got me through my first Banshee motor build... I had done others but I always prefer to have a manual on hand and a reference like this certainly doesn't hurt at all and is worth it's wait in gold. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaracing02 Posted June 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 (edited) THAT HELPED!! so since the pushrod slides into a gear shaft. what will i do here, remove that rack of gears and try to pound out the push rod? i cant put it in a vice.. so how will this work? any ideas or past experiences? haha Also, what all should I order, threebond 1211, then what? crank seals? do i need kick start seal? anything else? Edited June 28, 2015 by hondaracing02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Unless you know how old the crank seals are, replace them. Set the shaft/gear cluster on wood blocks with a gap between for rod, use drift punch and tap it out. That doesn't mean wail on itwith 2lb sledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaracing02 Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 hit the push rod with a punch and its not froze! exciting right! the flywheel side is bugged up tho...so it wont slide out.. lol. any new ideas? or back to splitting the cases..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 IIRC, you can't punch it out while in the case. Get a real strong magnet, attach to punch that fits in, maybe will come out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 can you get the actuator out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaracing02 Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 i got the actuator out.. and the head of that side of the push rod is smashed up like the head of a nail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaracing02 Posted July 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 Have you split the cases yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaracing02 Posted July 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 no. i wanted to see if anyone had an idea to get the rod out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted July 4, 2015 Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 Magnet on a metal rod slipped in to the trans shaft from clutch side. If it doesn't come that easy.... The rod has mushroomed on the actuator side and there is only one solution. Surprise, split the cases! Could have been done and back together by now. Don't let it scare you. You literally have three big pieces inside there. Lift the top case off and there are two trans clusters and the crank. Lift it all straight up and out and don't pull any of it apart. Just inspect it all. Maybe pull bearings off one at a time to feel if they are sloppy. Remove the rod and ball then clean parts as best as possible. Get a case of brake parts cleaner if you don't have a parts washer. Lay it all out on a clean rag/towel and spray it down till the fluid comes off clear. Clean the cases' mating surface with acetone to remove old sealant. Grease the bearings one at a time and drop the trans clusters back in. There will be pretty obvious grooves on the transmission where you line up the shift forks. Then drop the crank in. Now run a micro bead of sealer over the bottom case half surface. Drop the top on and start checking that your NEW case seals are still in place, same with little pins on the factory crank bearings. If all is well, start the torque procedure and move on to the top end or clutch and stator . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salmon_slayer06 Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Leave the case bolts in just loosen them up about 5 turns and hit these with a soft mallet in a criss cross pattern to break the case seal. I clean the crank and trans bearings with contact cleaner or something and reoil throughly with the trans oil or the 2 stroke oil for the crank bearings. I do the same for the connecting rod bearings also. I do this more for checking for binding or wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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