sprinklerman Posted January 28, 2015 Report Posted January 28, 2015 How would I check them? When I tore the motor apart last time stator was in ruff shape. I cleaned it up best I could. Looked like water seeped into the case on that side Can you answer my question about the advanced timing? If my bike is running fine. With stick pipes .40 bore and single foam filter with box and lid with holes in it. No snorkel will the advanced timing make it worth the cost? Trying to help you fix the problem you mentioned in the beginning, and possibly save you some money. Check the plug boots. Use ohm meter. Report findings. Quote
trickedcarbine Posted January 28, 2015 Report Posted January 28, 2015 Yes, timing plates are worth the dollars. But sprink has a point with fixing before upgrading. Quote
sprinklerman Posted January 28, 2015 Report Posted January 28, 2015 Yes, timing plates are worth the dollars. But sprink has a point with fixing before upgrading.I know right? Maybe his stator is bad, but just because it had a little rust and moisture in it,doesn't mean that's his problem. Imo, always check the simple and cheap stuff 1st. 1 Quote
MessyJesse69 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Posted January 28, 2015 I'll check it after school. What kind of numbers should I be looking for? And how should I check it? With both caps off the plugs and kick it? Quote
MessyJesse69 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Posted January 28, 2015 Also should I be weary of ebay stators? Quote
Pasi S. Posted January 28, 2015 Report Posted January 28, 2015 HAHAHA!!! On ihan sama, mitä näille ihmisille kertoo tai neuvoo. He eivät kuuntele. Quote
MessyJesse69 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Posted January 28, 2015 Why? Wouldn't they work fine as a replacement? Might not last as long but they should work right? Quote
MessyJesse69 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Posted January 28, 2015 Lol I know I deserve it but if you don't ask stupid questions you do stupid things. Thanks for the heads up I almost ordered a fleabay stator and flywheel Quote
n2otoofast4u Posted January 28, 2015 Report Posted January 28, 2015 Why? Wouldn't they work fine as a replacement? Might not last as long but they should work right? NO... FUCKING LISTEN TO THESE PEOPLE YOU TWIT Quote
trickedcarbine Posted January 28, 2015 Report Posted January 28, 2015 Also, you mention you are looking at plates and stators. Be very leary of the stator and cast plate combos. STAY AWAY FROM: RM Rick's Rickey Stator Electro Sport Racetech (suit your self folks, mine didn't work and I had to fix the replacement as well) ^ already mentioned what to stay away from. Quote
Larry's Shee Posted January 29, 2015 Report Posted January 29, 2015 If you buy junk, you'll be back with "Why is my junk breaking up at high RPM, but starts and idles fine". Or "Screws broke out of cheap cast plate and took out stator and flywheel" (and maybe crank end). Fuck, probably have better chance of getting "good" parts from Rattle Can Ray. Shotgun parts replacement is usually the most expensive way around the block. Either get a Clymers Repair manual, or find the online manual for the values for testing. Clean rust off, especially timing "nubs" on outside of flywheel. Set pick-up gap. Trim 1/4" off plug wires and re-install plug caps, after ohming coil and caps seperate. Quote
MessyJesse69 Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Posted January 30, 2015 I'm buying used oem parts of strokedoutshee he's hooking me up with carbs pipes stator flywheel plug caps pickup coil etc should clear up the problem. Quote
MessyJesse69 Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Posted January 30, 2015 Anyone do business with him? Seems like a good guy Quote
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