n2otoofast4u Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Just use the fucking auto store shit. It works great. Facking truck is approaching 10 years old. Is your ol lady as tight now as 10 years ago? Nope!! Neither are the joints on your AC system. Buy the can of shit and squeeze the trigger. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Just use the fucking auto store shit. It works great. Facking truck is approaching 10 years old. Is your ol lady as tight now as 10 years ago? Nope!! Neither are the joints on your AC system. Buy the can of shit and squeeze the trigger. My fucking truck did the same thing, leaked about a pound a year for the last 5 years or so, each summer i would just dump a can of 134 in it and it worked fine. This year the charge only lasted me about a month. Soooo its time to do it right. If it were me I would just take the easy way this time and see if it lasts. Like said if you can skate by for a few more years, you will probably end up selling it anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordanksartell Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 no. no. If a system is leaking you dont dump it and evacuate. It can't pull a vacuum if theres a leak! It just sucks air and moisture in. And damn sure dont dump more oil in it. Lol The only way you lose any significant amount of oil is if you take the compressor off and dump all the oil out. Down below you said the stuff at O'reillys hurts your system??? If it's 134a it doesnt make a damn where you buy it from. I'd personally not mess with any stop leak but nobody will ever ever ever ever know of there's stop leak in a refrigeration system unless you're a part time chemist. Tyler-- My old 5.9 cummins was really bad about getting a shit of dirt built up on the condensor. The fin spacing on it is smaller than the intercooler so it collects everything. Make sure its clean. Wash it with a water hose the opposite way of air flow if possible. Or at least wash it downward. Try not to spray it straight in to it. A ton of dirt will get clogged right in the center. If its clean and still not cooling grab the lines going in to the cab to the evaporator. The small line should be warm but not crazy hot. The big line should be cold. About 35-50° cold. If its warm its most likely undercharged. Dump some refrigerant in it and get it back where it needs to be. If it makes it another 2-3 yrs then you'd be wasting your time trying to find the leak. If its low again in a month or so, you need to find and repair the leak. I'll send you a PM and can walk you through charging it. Theres nothing to it. Your best bet is to get a real set of gauges to get high and low pressure readings. Print off the 20% coupon for harbor freight and go buy their automotive gauges for $40 if you want. Buying 134a by the cans is outrageous. I just bought a 30lb drum of.it for $99 at Atwoods. Should've been more clear, which I was in a later post. I wasn't saying to just evac, refill, and recharge if there's a leak. Leaks need to be addressed first (along with any broken parts). Generally though with a vehicle that old (or older) it's a good idea to drain and refill the system with fresh oil which is what I was getting at. And you're right, R134a is the same no matter where you get it. I was denouncing the stuff you buy in the store with an idiot gage on it with the stop leak stuff. Waste of money and doesn't really solve the problem properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Just smear some concrete around all the connections and call it gooder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redline Racing Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Your wife doesn't blow cold air either. It's always really hot when I'm there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 That stuff auto stores sell is fucking junk. Go to a mechanic, throw him $20 and he will do it the right way. I've never had good luck with that can BS. :rotflmao: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zillaguy Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 First is evac the system, replace the reciever/drier they get contaminated (because they have a dessicant inside of them, that absorbs moisure). Put 2ozs. of UV dye in the line(s) running from the reciever/drier... Pull a vac. of 30in on the system and let it sit in vac for at least 15mins.... This will tell you how bad the leak is.. (Kind of like a leakdown tester for a banshee motor, on backwards) it should hold 30in of vac and not decrease... Then recharge the system to spec.. Put it on MAX A/C windows up, engine RPM at 1200... Your low side reading should be around 30-40PSI, the high side reading should be roughly 2.5 times ambient air temp... DO NOT use leak sealer... It will plug the small orfice in the expansion valve, and you will have inferior cooling because of it..... Also it will cause much higher than normal high side pressure and can cause the low side to go into vac. Run the system for a few days, and then check over all the lines, condensor, reciever, compressor with a black light looking for the glowing spot... That is your leak.... If you see no external leaks, it's probably the evap core in the dash..... Which is the more common A/C problem with Chryslers.... I get $400 labor to change them, plus $65 for the recharge, and the part is about $150. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted August 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Umm, fuck all that. I do concrete work. I'm not a mechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redline Racing Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Ill bring tools we will fix it at around 2am at HQ ride. 2am is optimal time for this project. Everyone will be in mechanic mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted August 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Ill bring tools we will fix it at around 2am at HQ ride. 2am is optimal time for this project. Everyone will be in mechanic mode. Only if you hang your cordless phone from your pants while you work on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hummer84 Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 You better get that A/C fixed before the HQ ride! Ill be mad as fuck if my snickers melts on the way down your bringing me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted August 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 You better get that A/C fixed before the HQ ride! Ill be mad as fuck if my snickers melts on the way down your bringing me! I'm bringing you a Snickers and some Midol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey83 Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 First is evac the system, replace the reciever/drier they get contaminated (because they have a dessicant inside of them, that absorbs moisure). Put 2ozs. of UV dye in the line(s) running from the reciever/drier... Pull a vac. of 30in on the system and let it sit in vac for at least 15mins.... This will tell you how bad the leak is.. (Kind of like a leakdown tester for a banshee motor, on backwards) it should hold 30in of vac and not decrease... Then recharge the system to spec.. Put it on MAX A/C windows up, engine RPM at 1200... Your low side reading should be around 30-40PSI, the high side reading should be roughly 2.5 times ambient air temp... DO NOT use leak sealer... It will plug the small orfice in the expansion valve, and you will have inferior cooling because of it..... Also it will cause much higher than normal high side pressure and can cause the low side to go into vac. Run the system for a few days, and then check over all the lines, condensor, reciever, compressor with a black light looking for the glowing spot... That is your leak.... If you see no external leaks, it's probably the evap core in the dash..... Which is the more common A/C problem with Chryslers.... I get $400 labor to change them, plus $65 for the recharge, and the part is about $150. No.Why the fuck would anybody dump and vacuum a system with a leak?? Youre going to suck in air. And using a vacuum as a pressure test is M.R. And a 30" vacuum is impossible. Even on a sealed system. science says its impossible. Plus when youre at a 28" vacuum thats only equal to about 6psi positive pressure. So if a system holds 6 psi for 20 minutes its ok??? Man just clean the condenser and radiator and shit. Go get a can and charge it up to about 35-40 psi as long as the cab air temp is 80 or less with it on max ac full blast and recirculate. Unless you want to pay some dumbass 600-800 to do it wrong and probably have to do it again. Most leaks are on compressor or evaporator under the dash. Just charge it and see how long it lasts to determine how bad the leak is. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 I remember my first beer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave5.0 Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 You curly headed fuck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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