jordanksartell

K. You guys were right, I may as well just buy a whole new rebuild kit that comes with the damn bolts....lol cheapest I'm finding them is like 8 or 9$ shipped, which I may as well spend double that and have a spare as well as the O-rings to rebuild again in the future. /thread

rofl, now that's a good one...

Good to know! Thanks for the heads up. I ALMOST bought an OEM stator from him, but found one in much better shape for a little less. I tried haggling with him in the past on a rear axle/carrier though and he was a straight up douche. Didn't put two and two together that they were the same person till now.

Lol who is he and what'd he do?

Caliper was just rebuilt and installed new pads but the kit I got didn't have the bolts, just the seals. Was just trying to find a cheaper alternative to buying a whole new kit. Thanks....I guess.

Anyone know where I can find just one of the bolts in this auction? http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-350-BANSHEE-REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-REBUILD-KIT-/290696053807?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43aed5c42f&vxp=mtr One of them is missing and I've tried all I can to search for it and cannot find it anywhere. Does anyone have an extra laying around? I'd hate to spend 16$ on a rebuild kit and only need one of the damn bolts.

Was impatient and got one off eBay that looks like brand new. No corrosion, nothing. OEM out of a 2005. Also ordered a new front sprocket nut as I noticed mine has stripped threads. I go on vacation next Wednesday and the parts are supposed to be here Tuesday but I doubt ill have time to put them on. Oh well, guess ill have to wait even longer. Lol

I checked continuity with the kill switch and it's functioning as it should. I pulled the flywheel/stator cover and the gasket had clearly failed. Everything was covered in this nasty grease/grime and stuff had corroded a bit. The pickup was maybe 3X the gap that it should've been and the screws for it were rusted solid and stripped. While trying to get them to come free I snapped the damn timing plate. I think I'm going to just pick up a known to be good OEM stator, timing plate, and pickup. IF for some awful reason that's not the issue, I'll find someone local to swap CDI's with and see if that's the issue. There really is NO other reason for this.... Fingers crossed.... Anyone have an OEM stator/timing plate/pickup for a decent price?

Alright guys...need input/direction here. I got a new coil and installed it and it made zero difference. I checked for spark with the brand new coil as well as the old jerry-rigged coil and it looks like I'm getting none whatsoever. So clearly I've been dealing with a no spark/intermittent spark issue for awhile now. Funny how it'd run a bit and now it has a zero spark condition. Where do I go from here? I've read (please confirm) that the CDI is usually a go/no go type of thing and it won't be intermittent, so I'm wondering if I can eliminate that? Looks like I'll be pulling the flywheel after all. I need to check gap on the pickup. Is it possible that that's all that it is? I checked resistance of the stator at the CDI/Stator plug in back and the windings all checked out. I'm about to go check out the resistance for the primary and secondary coil. Will report back in a bit. I am also going to take apart the kill switch to make damn sure that it's not just that stupid switch as the bike has clearly sat outside and could have become corroded. I think I've got a handle on things, but let me know any of your guys' input, especially on the CDI question. Thanks a bunch!! Hope you guys are all at least enjoying your banshees as I've been banging my head for the past 3 months dealing with issue after issue after issue. -Jordan

lol, no kidding.

Ended up just ordering an OEM one. Don't want to deal with any guessing games once it gets here. I really hope that it'll run good with my current needle and jetting setup. According to Alba that's what should work well for me, so we'll see. All I know is the 30 seconds or so that it ran today it ran so smoothly. Throttle response was perfect, didn't bog down or cut out at all. Really hoping I'm near the end of this headache.

FAST doesn't have any anymore...or at least not right now... but not really wanting to spend 166$ anyway. Just want to get this thing running good so I can ride on it a bit before selling.

IT RUNSSSS!!!! Kinda..... I'm pretty positive I need a new coil. I pulled the factory wires out of mine and put in some aftermarket ones and it started on the first kick....ran until the bowls emptied at various RPM's/Throttle Positions. (I forgot to turn the gas back on so it may have ran longer had I not been complacent) It was firing perfectly on both cylinders and exhaust smoke was even and consistent between the two while it was running (about 30 full seconds). The reason I'm thinking coil though is because of how jerry rigged and corroded the old wires were and also how jerry rigged the new wires are. Very possible they came loose as the retaining clip on the coil broke so I had to basically tape the wires in place. Anywho, anyone on here have a good condition OEM coil for sale for cheap? Or does anyone have any recommendation for an aftermarket coil? I would preferably like one that has standard spark plug boots on them and not the skinny tipped resistor type (I'm running brand new BR8ES plugs gapped to .030") Thanks to all who have contributed, if anyone has a lead on a coil that'd be awesome. I'll update as I have more information.

I sure hope so... I'm so close to wanting to give up. I don't have lots of extra time to spend working on it as I'm always busy fixing everyone else's crap. So hopefully I'll get it taken care of without much more trouble...

Just checked it. The connector has been completely deleted and the two wires have been soldered and crimped together so I can eliminate that. Although I doubted that in the first place considering I was able to get it started before to some degree. I will be able to do a lot of work to it tomorrow so hopefully I can swap plugs and such and come back with good news.

Okay, I don't have a key switch, only a kill switch so I highly doubt that's what is causing it. Unless somehow the wiring for the key switch came disconnected from itself. Where is the key switch plug on the harness? Going to make sure that it's still jumped when I do everything else.

No I haven't. Are those known to fail or something causing a no start?

You may be able to get by with brazing it and then re-tapping.

Not about to start buying more shit to throw at it until I can verify what the problem actually is. Have enough money into the rebuild as is. For all I know the gaps on the plugs could be way off and they could be fouled up. When I pulled them before they were wet but they looked really clean. So I assumed they were good. Have new plugs to gap and go in but it's been hot as balls today so I haven't messed with it much other than trying to push start it a few times. Definitely is seeming like its not getting spark or not good enough spark as it doesn't even pop. You can hear the compression but that's it. No pops, no smoke, nothing.

Other option would be to fill in the hole with JB weld and then drill and retap. I've had success with that method with previous projects of mine. Only thing will be trying to find the appropriate tap for the Mains.

Should go to the factory white wire in the harness going to your coil.

Well that escalated quickly....

Lame...haha. Well I'll dig into her later today and double/triple check on things and report back. I really hope I can get her running right real soon. Would like to enjoy it some before it gets too cold..... Thanks for the help and ideas guys... I appreciate it all very much.

Should've been more clear, which I was in a later post. I wasn't saying to just evac, refill, and recharge if there's a leak. Leaks need to be addressed first (along with any broken parts). Generally though with a vehicle that old (or older) it's a good idea to drain and refill the system with fresh oil which is what I was getting at. And you're right, R134a is the same no matter where you get it. I was denouncing the stuff you buy in the store with an idiot gage on it with the stop leak stuff. Waste of money and doesn't really solve the problem properly.