JoeStar85 Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 I just bought this banshee last saturday and am still trying to learn the in's and outs of this machine. Its a 1998 all stock with the exception of the K&N air filter and FMF Fattys with turbinecore 2 silencers and 260 main jet the kit came with that i just finished installing tonight. I am about 500ft above sea level. It is bogging out and not firing on the right cyclinder at idle. Both cylinders fire when i get into the throttle about 1/4 turn. I assume this is a carb issue but I don't know where to start. Before i even finished putting the exhaust on I attempted to sync the carbs. At full thottle both carbs had the ping mark in the sight glass so i then tried to adjust the slides so they opened in unison. I had a hard time getting them to open exactly the same. I got them to the point where they both moved at the exact same time but it seemed like one side would move at a higher rate on the way up even though they intially started moving at the same time. So I stopped there and hoped it would be good but it is not. Like i said all i changed in the carb was the main jet to a 260. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcard2 Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Joe, To be properly synced all of the carb adjustments must be the same. The slides need to rest at the same height, be at the same height at wide open throttle and begin to raise at the same time. The pilot air screws must be the same amount of turn out from bottom and all of the jetting specs must be the same. Check the spark plug caps, make sure they have a good tight connection to the plug wires. The pickup coil gap should be .018"-.020" measured between the pickup lugs on the flywheel and pickup coil, if one lug measures differently from the other it would indicate the crank being out of true. Also it may be a good idea to check the compression, a cylinder with low compression may not fire in the lower rpms, then will begin to fire as the revs increase. Hope this all helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeStar85 Posted March 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Joe, To be properly synced all of the carb adjustments must be the same. The slides need to rest at the same height, be at the same height at wide open throttle and begin to raise at the same time. The pilot air screws must be the same amount of turn out from bottom and all of the jetting specs must be the same. Check the spark plug caps, make sure they have a good tight connection to the plug wires. The pickup coil gap should be .018"-.020" measured between the pickup lugs on the flywheel and pickup coil, if one lug measures differently from the other it would indicate the crank being out of true. Also it may be a good idea to check the compression, a cylinder with low compression may not fire in the lower rpms, then will begin to fire as the revs increase. Hope this all helps. Thanks Wildcard2 i will take a look at those I probably messed it up when i tried to get the slides adjusted. It ran pretty good and always fired on both cyclinders with the stock air filter, pipes and silencers so im thinking it shouldn't be anything major. My buddy checked it out when i bought it and told me that the slides needed adjusted which was the only reason i attempted syncing them. I also never touched the pilot air screws after putting the exhaust on it. I never really messed with any carbs before so it's kinda greek to me. I have the factory service manual and have been trying to use that as a guide to anything i do. I do know that the previous owner put a brand new coil on it right before i bought it and after taking the plastics off i can see it is new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 X-2 on all this ^^^^^ Did you bother to completely clean the carbs? TORS brick on carbs? Set float levels? Have a Clymers or downloaded manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361 Also look or search this thread for a simular set-up. What pilot jets do you have in it? Most I have seen run a 27.5. 260 sounds lean to me, JMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeStar85 Posted March 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361 Also look or search this thread for a simular set-up. What pilot jets do you have in it? Most I have seen run a 27.5. 260 sounds lean to me, JMHO. I have the TORS (i think i wanna get rid of them) I have the stock pilots in. The instructions said to leave the clip in the stock position so i didn't mess with that. I only changed the main jet like it said in the instructions. I thought it would run fine because it was running good before i changed the exhaust so i didn't bother tearing the carb completely apart. I guess i was way off on that thought! I also have the leaking gas out of the carb problem, which i saw the link on how to fix that with the toothpaste trick bt not before i had it all put back together. Now it seems like it is dumping way more gas out of the carbs than it did before. I guess i have some work a head of me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 had this same problem with my bike when i first brought it home when i bought it. i had (i think) a 240 main jet and stock pilots in it....... PULL THE PILOTS OUT AND PUT IN 27.5's........then tell me how it runs...haha. oh yea....watch out cause your probably not going to expect it.....i know i almost put it up on its ass because i doubted it was going to help......damn i was wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Unported 4mil w/head spacer, FMF Signature series, Vito's reeds, 950-1200', 310m, 27.5p, 1 1/2- 3/4 turns, middle clip. Might be tad rich, but rather leave a horse or two in the barn and pistons in the holes. JMHO, your results may, and will vary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothman Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 I also agree with 27.5 pilots....adjust slides (make sure half dome is facing the air filter too)....make sure floats are in correct carb (yes they are different)....turn air screw all the way in until it lightly bottoms out and back it out 2 turns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Crossover tube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcardracing Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Good call n2o, make sure the choke crossover tube is in place. Directly across from the choke knob there should be a tube connecting the two carbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeStar85 Posted March 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Here is some more info i got today when i messed with it. It blows a normal amount of smoke when the engine is cold started. Once i rip it up the road and back i notice it really isn't blowing smoke at all like it is way too lean once it warms up. And it seems to warm up quick. It idles a little bit when it is cold also. I looked through the post with all the different setups with every brand of pipes on this site and i see a decent amount of people are still using the 25 pilot jet with the same setup i have. I can't get a 27.5 in town so i would have to order it. Is there anything i can change in the carb to possibly fix this situation using the stock pilot. Like the air screw or changing where the clip is? I just bought this thing last week and have been itching to get it good enough to ride this weekend because i won't get another chance to ride it at all for about three months. I did a compression test at WOT and got 90 on each cyclinder. But i also read that the chamber for the compression tester must be the same length and diameter as the spark plug to get a correct reading and the one i used wasn't even have the size of the spark plug. SO i don't know how accurate my results are. I pulled the spark plugs and the cyclinder that is firing all the time is black (left cylinder if you are sitting on quad). The other is a brownish color (right cylinder). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothman Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Here is some more info i got today when i messed with it. It blows a normal amount of smoke when the engine is cold started. Once i rip it up the road and back i notice it really isn't blowing smoke at all like it is way too lean once it warms up. And it seems to warm up quick. It idles a little bit when it is cold also. I looked through the post with all the different setups with every brand of pipes on this site and i see a decent amount of people are still using the 25 pilot jet with the same setup i have. I can't get a 27.5 in town so i would have to order it. Is there anything i can change in the carb to possibly fix this situation using the stock pilot. Like the air screw or changing where the clip is? I just bought this thing last week and have been itching to get it good enough to ride this weekend because i won't get another chance to ride it at all for about three months. I did a compression test at WOT and got 90 on each cyclinder. But i also read that the chamber for the compression tester must be the same length and diameter as the spark plug to get a correct reading and the one i used wasn't even have the size of the spark plug. SO i don't know how accurate my results are. I pulled the spark plugs and the cyclinder that is firing all the time is black (left cylinder if you are sitting on quad). The other is a brownish color (right cylinder). If the compression tester is roughly the same size as the threads on the spark plug, it's going to fairly accurate. I think you might want to pull the head and inspect for cylinder/piston damage. 110 psi requires a top end rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeStar85 Posted March 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 If the compression tester is roughly the same size as the threads on the spark plug, it's going to fairly accurate. I think you might want to pull the head and inspect for cylinder/piston damage. 110 psi requires a top end rebuild. The thread length for the compression tester is about half the length of spark plug thread length Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeStar85 Posted March 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 Do i need to drain the coolant before removing the head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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