JoeStar85

Engine parts are sold. Still have fenders

Blue Front and rear plastics with front fender stays-$175 plus shipping -Uncut OEM plastic, no cracks. Has slight discoloring like all the blue plastics get. Good shape. OEM crank, pistons, head, timing plate and reeds with cages-125 plus shipping -I removed the stock parts and upgraded to a 4mil crank. Parts are in excellent shape. I will email you pics if you are interested. Wouldn't allow me to upload photos.

I ordered a new chain and sprocket set. Went to replace the rear sprocket and it does not line up with the bolt pattern on the sprocket hub? Do I need to order a specific sprocket to fit the durablue sprocket hub? Either that or the hub I have is not for the banshee, I bought it used.

Did the tusk axle come with all new hubs? sprocket, rotor and wheel hubs? Mine have play in them but im not sure if it is the splines on the axle or the hubs that are worn.

Did you get your axle setup correctly?? I need a new axle and was looking at the adjustable tusk. Does it come with new wheel hubs, rotor and sprocket hubs?

I have play in both rear hubs the sprocket and rotor. I'm assuming it's time to replace the axle? I haven't looked very much at aftermarket axles. So far I am looking at the Dura Blue X-33 axle. I like that it can be adjusted to different lengths. I have a stock axle right now with offset wheels which makes the rear end a couple inches wider. I want to get different wheels in the future so it would be nice to be able to extend the axle instead of buying off set wheels. I am just going to replace the bearings in the stock carrier for now. What's your input on axle brands and which one is the best choice? I do mostly woods riding, no crazy jumping or anything.

I need to replace the carrier bearings, what brand makes a good replacement? I have the factory carrier.

Kevin sells HotRods cranks, not rebuilt "Hotrods" cranks. When I got mine from HJR last year it was shipped in the Original Box from hotrods. Just specify that you want a hotrods crank because he also sells the cheaper cranks (as of last year). Spend the extra money for a better quality crank.

If you decide to sell the grill seperate, let me know.

How do i know when there is too much play in the rear axle to ride? I was getting it ready to ride for this weekend at camp when i realized that their is some play in the rear axle. It's not wobbling all over the place but there is some movement in it. I can't get the bearings to be able to fix it before i leave for camp and i was hoping if i don't jump it or beat the snot out of it the whole time that I could get away with doing a little riding this weekend. If I grab the rear tires and turn them in opposite directions there is about 1/4" of play. and a slight bit of play when pulling up and down, back and fourth.

Haha.... I was thinking the same thing

I got a hardcore MX port and polish along with a bunch of other motor work done by Kevin. My bike runs awesome! Kevin's customer service is like none other and is always easy to get a hold of and willing to answer any questions I have. You will be happy with the quality of his work.

It's about a 2hr drive to marienville for me. Trail pass is only $35. I haven't been to willow creek yet. I also looked into a place by Pittsburgh called Mines and Meadows and they want $25 for a day or like $250 for a year! I want to get down there and check it out but I don't think I will be buying a year pass, that's expensive!

Im going to Thunder on the Hill in Cadiz OH this saturday for their poker run. Anyone else going?

Im about 20-30 minutes away from you. My buddies said there is a night ride September 1st in Meadville? Did you hear or know anything about that?

Kevin at HJR did a great job putting a 4mil HR crank and all the other bells and whistles in my motor. I ride trails mostly and some fields and my bike rips! Call one of the site sponsers and they can help you decide how much you want to do, usually it just comes down to how much you want to spend.

I live in Erie, Pa and do some riding here and in the Allegheny Forest Trails in Marienville/Warren area. Anyone else live nearby or do any riding near these places or do riding within a two hour drive of Erie?

Each time we raced he would jump me by about 2 bike lengths but once i hit 3rd gear I would start to gain on him. I know I am running a little rich but I was kinda pissed that he blew me out of the hole that bad. I want to race him again on pavement because i couldn't get traction to save my life. He has a lot done to his motor and is the kind of person that won't fess up to how much work he has done. He said all he did was get a cam and head work but he told me in the beginning of the year that he had a 510 kit for it and i saw it all torn apart. I know he had it dynoed and tuned, he said he was getting 63HP at the tires but then again he might be bullshitting about the numbers. With my setup Kevin said I should be between 60-70HP so i was kinda surprised to get my ass handed to me. Over the winter I want to get new exhaust, carbs, K&N pods and shorten the swingarm 2". I had my motor built by kevin at HJR List of Mods: 4 Mil HR crank MX hardcore port and polish Case matching Chariot Head with 23cc domes (145 psi) Chariot Reed cages with boyseen reeds +4 Advanced timing plate Shift star FMF Fattys w/ turbinecore 2's K&N with outerwear stock airbox no lid

Thanks for the info guys. At least I know it's nothing seriously wrong to worry about. I will keep an eye on it and upgrade the cooling system over the winter while im putting on some more mods. Got beat by my buddies trx 450r yesterday, a little shocked and annoyed by that.

The cooling system is stock. I have engine ice in it.

Oh, I was under the impression that the overflow bottle was to have coolant between the LOW and FULL marks on the bottle. It doesn't loose very much, i was just adding a splash of coolant every once in a while to compensate for any loss from riding. I told Kevin i was loosing a very small amount of coolant out of the overflow bottle and he said it wasn't a big deal. I thought it was wierd that this was happening though.

While riding yesterday my buddy and I started drag racing down a back road a couple times, then I started smelling coolant. I shut it down and checked the overflow tank and it didn't look like it lost any coolant and I didn't see any coolant leaking anywhere. We had been woods riding for a little while before and had no problems. I Let it sit for a few minutes and continued rinding for another hour or so in the woods/fields with no more coolant smell. A couple weeks ago I was running dirt roads for about 2 miles at pretty fast pace and I when i slowed down I could smell coolant. It has never drained the coolant tank on a single ride although every once in a while I notice that the overflow tank is down slightly, maybe a 1/2" but that is after a few decent rides. I have never had a problem overheating while riding through the woods, it just seems to get hot when Im ringing its neck: which is totally opposite of what I expected. It has about 7 hours on a rebuild. It was about 75 degrees when i was riding. I talked with Kevin and he said I shouldn't worry about it unless its draining the overflow. I am overly picky about things and I don't think I should be smelling coolant unless something is wrong. Anyone else have this problem or input on fixing it? 4mil HR Crank MX hardcore port and polish +4 timing chariot head 23cc domes 93 octane K&N with outerwean airbox no lid

I don't own a diesel but a lot of my friends have them. They all say to stay away from 2004 and older Duramax's. 2005 is a good year and in 2006 and 2007 they made an LBZ motor which has more power than the other motors. I'm no pro on diesels just hear things from my friends.

My navigation says a little over 5 1/2 hour drive to each....I'm going to keep checking around, thats a long ass drive

I live in Erie, Pa