Screamin Banshee92 Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 (edited) So I did a plug test put a new set in this is what it looks like one is blackish the other is brownish.. not sure what this means or what o adjust.. Dg pipes 210 main jet everything else is stock k&n airfilter. left side wich is the blacker side seems to be misising maybe even a slight backfire. I have air screws at about 2 full turns I cant pic to upload so its here http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b184/DusterNut69/IMAG0422.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b184/DusterNut69/IMAG0421.jpg Small video of the sound idk if it helps http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDzSl2ur2ew&feature=youtu.be Edited March 29, 2012 by Screamin Banshee92 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cline Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Hey your title says plug chop but your pictures dont show any plugs that have been chopped. You need to look in the jetting and exhaust forum and look at some of the chops in there. If your plugs are getting browned or blackened at the top then you are doing it way wrong. Plug chopping is actually chopping the threads off the plug to see the approximate 2mm ring that will be at the bottom of the plug (not shown unless threads are cut away). If you want to do a plug chop, the bike needs to be warmed up on a old plugs then shut off. Put new plugs in, do a 1-6 WOT then pull in the clutch, kill it, and coast to a stop. Replace old plugs and ride home. Chop the 1-6 plugs then post them up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notsed Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 ive never ran dg pipes but i would guess your way lean to begin with. 200-220 is stock. as for one being darker could be a couple things, bad sync, float height/seat, possibly burning tranny oil. the first thing id do is throw some 260 mains in it sync the carbs and see if it gets better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothman Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 So I did a plug test put a new set in this is what it looks like one is blackish the other is brownish.. not sure what this means or what o adjust.. Dg pipes 210 main jet everything else is stock k&n airfilter. left side wich is the blacker side seems to be misising maybe even a slight backfire. I have air screws at about 2 full turns I cant pic to upload so its here http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b184/DusterNut69/IMAG0422.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b184/DusterNut69/IMAG0421.jpg Small video of the sound idk if it helps http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDzSl2ur2ew&feature=youtu.be Looks too rich. Turn the screws out another 0.5 What is your elevation? Are you using the stock air box? Did you have 200 mains before you installed 210s ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothman Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 ive never ran dg pipes but i would guess your way lean to begin with. 200-220 is stock. as for one being darker could be a couple things, bad sync, float height/seat, possibly burning tranny oil. the first thing id do is throw some 260 mains in it sync the carbs and see if it gets better. I don't think he's running lean. Look at the electrode. Looks black and oily. If it was running lean, it would look white or burned. If he's at a high elevation he won't need as much fuel. To the OP: you have stock OEM carbs, right ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadarRacing Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Wth? Lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screamin Banshee92 Posted March 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Wth? Lol. Thanks everyone I have stock carbs to my knowledge. With TORS but its all disconected but I didn't get the kit yet to remove the top junk.. It had 200 mains in it DG suggest one size up so I went with 210.. ALso a buddy had some 260 mains laying around I put them in and it didn't want to run and fauled the plugs. Tried some 240 mains and seemed about the same as 260.. I am new to the jetting stuff but I understand it sort of.. Do I need to move the needle at all? Elevation 734 I think ,y zip is 17963 pa usa Has stock air box with a K&N filter that slides in the front of box cone shaped Thanks again Feel like just putting stock pipes on a sayin the heck with it.... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cline Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 The needle is going to change your mid range. Here I put two extremely helpful links up about jetting that you must educate yourself with. After reading these you should feel a lot better. Trust me, ditching those stock pipes was best move you ever made and you don't want to look back. http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23546 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothman Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Thanks everyone I have stock carbs to my knowledge. With TORS but its all disconected but I didn't get the kit yet to remove the top junk.. It had 200 mains in it DG suggest one size up so I went with 210.. ALso a buddy had some 260 mains laying around I put them in and it didn't want to run and fauled the plugs. Tried some 240 mains and seemed about the same as 260.. I am new to the jetting stuff but I understand it sort of.. Do I need to move the needle at all? Elevation 734 I think ,y zip is 17963 pa usa Has stock air box with a K&N filter that slides in the front of box cone shaped Thanks again Feel like just putting stock pipes on a sayin the heck with it.... lol Did you keep the stock 25 pilot jet? Or did you put in something different? It is kind of weird that your plugs look black, yet you are only running a 210 main with pipes. Most people are in between 270-330 with pipes and no intake box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Also depends on if he's doing 1-6 pull on new plugs or is he just riding around and then pulling plugs. After reading lincs you'll know more. Even if DG aren't much more on power at least they weigh less Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screamin Banshee92 Posted March 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Also depends on if he's doing 1-6 pull on new plugs or is he just riding around and then pulling plugs. After reading lincs you'll know more. Even if DG aren't much more on power at least they weigh less I put in new plugs in road around the road and back never went passed 2 gear. then I pulled plugs the ones in the picture.. never changed pilots just mains.. I know dg arent the best but the guy i got it from had them on never jetted it and I burned up a piston on the right side.. Guy who helped me redo it said it looked like it over heated.. I know before it would get hot and push fluid out of a tube near the gas tank I assume it was the case oil.. what it looked like so that would suggest lean correct? that was after a lot of hill climbs none stop.. though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screamin Banshee92 Posted March 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 I put in new plugs in road around the road and back never went passed 2 gear. then I pulled plugs the ones in the picture.. never changed pilots just mains.. I know dg arent the best but the guy i got it from had them on never jetted it and I burned up a piston on the right side.. Guy who helped me redo it said it looked like it over heated.. I know before it would get hot and push fluid out of a tube near the gas tank I assume it was the case oil.. what it looked like so that would suggest lean correct? that was after a lot of hill climbs none stop.. though I think I got it now.. The slides were uneven not by much I re adjusted the the big screws for the idle on my tors and now it seems great.. I will do the real plug chop this weekend I cant open it up to much at my house town cop seems to frown on that... $69.50 to be exact..lol Thanks for everyones help I dont know if its right but seems to pull now all the way threw.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothman Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 I put in new plugs in road around the road and back never went passed 2 gear. then I pulled plugs the ones in the picture.. never changed pilots just mains.. I know dg arent the best but the guy i got it from had them on never jetted it and I burned up a piston on the right side.. Guy who helped me redo it said it looked like it over heated.. I know before it would get hot and push fluid out of a tube near the gas tank I assume it was the case oil.. what it looked like so that would suggest lean correct? that was after a lot of hill climbs none stop.. though Rich Symptoms: •Poor power output •Starts too easily when cold - requiring little or no choke. Responds readily to the throttle when cold. Runs worse as it warms up •Hard starting when hot •Ragged idle...due to "loading up" of unburnt fuel •Idle that tends toward lower rpms than expected based on the setting of the curb idle screw •Easily settles to idle, but has tendency to dip below set idle speed then recover...sometimes stalls •Strong pungent odor of unburned fuel •Buildup of black, dry, sooty carbon deposits on spark plugs. Bad cases of this buildup will foul the plug completely and kill that cylinder. •Excessive buildup of dry sooty deposits in the exhaust system •Responds to throttle, but sluggish •When fully warmed up, runs much worse when choke is applied. •Poor fuel mileage •Black "puffy" smoke during hard acceleration •Temporarily removing air filter element makes the engine run better. •Runs worse as you climb to higher elevations •Fresh engine oil quickly turns black from excess fuel dilution Lean Symptoms: •Poor power output •Hard to start when cold - requires excessive choking. •Lengthy warm-up required. •Runs better (but not good as it warms up) •Spark plugs overly clean..with no deposits or slight glazed appearance •Rough, erratic idle that drifts toward higher rpms than expected based on the setting of the curb idle screw. Sometimes a lean condition will cause a "hanging" idle that is slow to settle down to set idle speed. •Backfiring •Sluggish...hesitates when the throttle is opened, then recovers (often accompanied by a slight backfire) •Vague throttle response •Surging at steady throttle cruise operation •When fully warmed up, runs better when choke is applied. •Engine runs hotter than normal. Headers can turn cherry red in extreme cases! •Temporarily removing air filter element makes the engine run worse. •Unusual "sucking" noises in the intake area. •Runs better as you climb to higher elevations •Slight back-firing on deceleration. This normal tendency is controlled by the air cut-off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BelleauCarl Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Woah awesome info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screamin Banshee92 Posted March 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Rich Symptoms: •Poor power output •Starts too easily when cold - requiring little or no choke. Responds readily to the throttle when cold. Runs worse as it warms up •Hard starting when hot •Ragged idle...due to "loading up" of unburnt fuel •Idle that tends toward lower rpms than expected based on the setting of the curb idle screw •Easily settles to idle, but has tendency to dip below set idle speed then recover...sometimes stalls •Strong pungent odor of unburned fuel •Buildup of black, dry, sooty carbon deposits on spark plugs. Bad cases of this buildup will foul the plug completely and kill that cylinder. •Excessive buildup of dry sooty deposits in the exhaust system •Responds to throttle, but sluggish •When fully warmed up, runs much worse when choke is applied. •Poor fuel mileage •Black "puffy" smoke during hard acceleration •Temporarily removing air filter element makes the engine run better. •Runs worse as you climb to higher elevations •Fresh engine oil quickly turns black from excess fuel dilution Lean Symptoms: •Poor power output •Hard to start when cold - requires excessive choking. •Lengthy warm-up required. •Runs better (but not good as it warms up) •Spark plugs overly clean..with no deposits or slight glazed appearance •Rough, erratic idle that drifts toward higher rpms than expected based on the setting of the curb idle screw. Sometimes a lean condition will cause a "hanging" idle that is slow to settle down to set idle speed. •Backfiring •Sluggish...hesitates when the throttle is opened, then recovers (often accompanied by a slight backfire) •Vague throttle response •Surging at steady throttle cruise operation •When fully warmed up, runs better when choke is applied. •Engine runs hotter than normal. Headers can turn cherry red in extreme cases! •Temporarily removing air filter element makes the engine run worse. •Unusual "sucking" noises in the intake area. •Runs better as you climb to higher elevations •Slight back-firing on deceleration. This normal tendency is controlled by the air cut-off Thanks good info that helps a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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