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Posted

I just bought a used banshee with a 421 cheetah, 4 mil crank with long rod (5mm),33mm carbs, cool head prodesign dome? but run half race gas/half super , lock up clutch. The guy install some toomeys t5 on it, should i change them with those a got on my stock banshee they are FMF fat gold seties with power core 2 silencer? or just wait and get those CPI? I am trail riding most of the times but like to beat all those 4pokes :rotflmao: on drag.

 

and by the way what oil do you put in that lock-up clutch? the guy i bought the bike told me automatic transmission oil... but which kind ?

Posted

if your going to run ATF in your tranny then you need to make sure its ATF Type F. The Type F doesn't have the friction modifiers that the new ATF fluids use......if you use the other types of ATF the modifiers will leach into your clutch fibers and then start slipping bad. Once that happens its time for a new set of clutch fibers as you cant get the modifiers out of them.

Posted

I just bought a used banshee with a 421 cheetah, 4 mil crank with long rod (5mm),33mm carbs, cool head prodesign dome? but run half race gas/half super , lock up clutch. The guy install some toomeys t5 on it, should i change them with those a got on my stock banshee they are FMF fat gold seties with power core 2 silencer? or just wait and get those CPI? I am trail riding most of the times but like to beat all those 4pokes :rotflmao: on drag.

 

and by the way what oil do you put in that lock-up clutch? the guy i bought the bike told me automatic transmission oil... but which kind ?

 

 

Cool Deal. The cub works great with CPI's for Drag racing. If your trying to keep it around tight trails the T-5's should work nicely too. You can sacrifice a tad low in and use the CPI's unless you a large rider like 200+ib's

 

The trans oil we use in all ours and customers bikes is this MTL80LiterBottle.jpg

 

your going to have fun racing either way .... ;)

Posted

Cool Deal. The cub works great with CPI's for Drag racing. If your trying to keep it around tight trails the T-5's should work nicely too. You can sacrifice a tad low in and use the CPI's unless you a large rider like 200+ib's

 

The trans oil we use in all ours and customers bikes is this MTL80LiterBottle.jpg

 

your going to have fun racing either way .... ;)

 

 

ya bought it for 4800$ candian dollar, its 2005 and motor is new. So the oil you recommand for lock up is the one shown on picture, no matter if i run in winter -20C?

Posted

Bel Ray, Maxima, Klotz Flexdrive .. all good $$$$ oils. If you go with ATF, you have to change it a lot more often than regular oil. Basically, any oil (Penzoil, Castrol, Valvoline - 30wt, 10w-30, etc.) will work as long as it doesn't have detergents in it. (I don't even know what oils DO have detergents in them)

Posted

Bel Ray, Maxima, Klotz Flexdrive .. all good $$$$ oils. If you go with ATF, you have to change it a lot more often than regular oil. Basically, any oil (Penzoil, Castrol, Valvoline - 30wt, 10w-30, etc.) will work as long as it doesn't have detergents in it. (I don't even know what oils DO have detergents in them)

jmadd do u know if the redline products mainly the superlight shockproof gear oil or the 0w10, 0w20 has any detergents in it.....i was told to try it from tdr bc of the weight of the oil but still has damn good protection......

Posted

Bel Ray, Maxima, Klotz Flexdrive .. all good $$$$ oils. If you go with ATF, you have to change it a lot more often than regular oil. Basically, any oil (Penzoil, Castrol, Valvoline - 30wt, 10w-30, etc.) will work as long as it doesn't have detergents in it. (I don't even know what oils DO have detergents in them)

jmadd do u know if the redline products mainly the superlight shockproof gear oil or the 0w10, 0w20 has any detergents in it.....i was told to try it from tdr bc of the weight of the oil but still has damn good protection......

Posted

ok i will use same oil that i put in electric compressor non-detergent sae 30, it cost nothing 2-3$ a liter, but i will change often cause anyhoe in my stock banshee i put the klotz flexdrive 30 and i see no difference. i change every 8 hours.

 

thanks for all answers :headbang:

Posted

ya bought it for 4800$ candian dollar, its 2005 and motor is new. So the oil you recommand for lock up is the one shown on picture, no matter if i run in winter -20C?

 

 

Yes the stuff works killer in all applications. here are the specs

 

Technical Data

Grade SAE MTL-R

Color D 1500 Honey

Gravity °A.P.I. 29.6

Viscosity SUS @ 100°F 328

Viscosity SUS @ 210°F 55.1

Viscosity cSt @ 40°C 63.45

Viscosity cSt @ 100°C 8.57

Pour Point, °F -12F

Flash Point, °F 465

Fire Point, °F 500

Viscosity Index 125*

SAE Viscosity 80wt

 

I never ran in -20c lol.... I'd think i stay home instead. thou it will require you warm up that bike no matter what oil with that cold of weather lol... Wow you scored at that price in Canadian.

Posted

Yes the stuff works killer in all applications. here are the specs

 

Technical Data

Grade SAE MTL-R

Color D 1500 Honey

Gravity °A.P.I. 29.6

Viscosity SUS @ 100°F 328

Viscosity SUS @ 210°F 55.1

Viscosity cSt @ 40°C 63.45

Viscosity cSt @ 100°C 8.57

Pour Point, °F -12F

Flash Point, °F 465

Fire Point, °F 500

Viscosity Index 125*

SAE Viscosity 80wt

 

I never ran in -20c lol.... I'd think i stay home instead. thou it will require you warm up that bike no matter what oil with that cold of weather lol... Wow you scored at that price in Canadian.

 

 

ya got that cheetah for a steal, lol i'll try that oil next flush! tks :cheers:

  • 2 months later...
Posted

hey 400sbc, i've got a simular setup to you that i am just putting together, only with the trinity head, pro circuit pipes and 35mm pwk's. did you have issue's putting your motor together like the cylinder head not going on easy or the pipes not fitting well? ex: pipe hitting cylinder head or carbs? i cant see much difference in shape between the t-5's and pc's.

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