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Posted

Installed idle kit and getting ready to do some tuning and rejetting. Adjusting air screws

and tuning. Go for a run and all a sudden the thing sticks wide open. Throttle slides aren't

stuck. TORS is removed never had problem before.

Posted

Installed idle kit and getting ready to do some tuning and rejetting. Adjusting air screws

and tuning. Go for a run and all a sudden the thing sticks wide open. Throttle slides aren't

stuck. TORS is removed never had problem before.

 

soon as u start it goes full throttle. Help please wanna get thing running right

Posted

Installed idle kit and getting ready to do some tuning and rejetting. Adjusting air screws

and tuning. Go for a run and all a sudden the thing sticks wide open. Throttle slides aren't

stuck. TORS is removed never had problem before.

 

 

Check your idle screws if they are run all the way in when you crank it the idle could be ramped way up. Tightening them should increase idle speed, backing them off should lower it. The way the idle screws work is they pull the slides up higher allowing more fuel/air into the engine from the start.

 

 

The slides allow gas and air to enter the engine... There is a needle that slips down into the main jet plugging it, the more throttle you give it the higher the slides raise allowing more and more fuel/air into the engine. Thus for it to be running wide open the slides would have to be in the up position.. If they are not sticking the problem should be in your idle circuit.. (Pilot jet/ idle screw)

Posted

soon as u start it goes full throttle. Help please wanna get thing running right

this happened to me once,,,i was adjusting the idle screw on my left carb(keihins) and tweaked the throttle cable a bit,,,fired it up and shee was wide open,,,just make sure your cables have not been pulled out a little bit,the slides wnt look like they are open bit shee will be revving like a bitch. just moved my cable back and shee was fine!

Posted

it could also be that ur tors brain or whatever it is called is still hooked up making it rev high. did u unplug the little black box that is above the left cylinder, bolted to the frame? make sure u do

Posted

it could also be that ur tors brain or whatever it is called is still hooked up making it rev high. did u unplug the little black box that is above the left cylinder, bolted to the frame? make sure u do

 

 

Possible air leak causing it to run lean?

 

Is the tops to your carbs threaded on correctly? (not cross threaded and not fully seated)

Posted

Possible air leak causing it to run lean?

 

Is the tops to your carbs threaded on correctly? (not cross threaded and not fully seated)

WIERD........it was running out of gas and guess made it run lean and scream. O.K. on my idle screws. One side is threaded all the way in and the other still has room to screw in. (must have filed off more on 1 side) They are both in a good ways but it still doesn't idle high enough and I can't thread the other side in anymore. I just installed 27.5 pilots. Should I file more off the 1 and turn them both in some more?

ALSO: I went from a 260 to a 310 main for rejetting purposes. I had it pegged in 5th so far and it pulled good and never bogged. I was expecting it to really bog and then work my way down. So I guess I have to buy BIGGER mains? Thought this was high for my mods. T5's, K&N lid on for now, VForce reeds, reed spacer, boost bottle.

Posted

it could also be that ur tors brain or whatever it is called is still hooked up making it rev high. did u unplug the little black box that is above the left cylinder, bolted to the frame? make sure u do

If you have the TORS system it will either idle correctly or not run at all. TORS cannot cause it to run wide open, all TORS does is when it senses the thumb throttle is closed AND the carb slides are not in the idle position, it cuts the spark so the engine dies. The original purpose of TORS was to prevent stuck throttle/ runaway situations.

Posted

If you have the TORS system it will either idle correctly or not run at all. TORS cannot cause it to run wide open, all TORS does is when it senses the thumb throttle is closed AND the carb slides are not in the idle position, it cuts the spark so the engine dies. The original purpose of TORS was to prevent stuck throttle/ runaway situations.

Also, I forgot to mention that in order for the engine to rev up it has to have enough fuel/air to support the higher RPMs, yes when they go lean they will rev up to some degree, but as it runs out of fuel it dies. It will not rev up unless there is a fuel/air mixture to support it.

Posted

Well I guess I solved the WIDE OPEN issue. What about increasing the idle? It definitely needs more. Just grind some more of the boss off on the carb so the screw can go in farther? Thx. fellas

Yes, grind some more off, it usually takes another 1/8 inch or so after you grind off the angle. When I set mine up I back out the idle screws so the slides bottom out in the carb. I then turn the screws until they just start to raise the slides, I then go another half turn. At this point start the bike and adjust the screw on each carb equally to obtain the idle speed you desire. With the screws set equally lock the nuts down. Then with the bike shut off and the air cleaner removed, side a finger into the back of each carb, and open the throttle slowly. Both slide should start to move at the same time, if they don't you need to unscrew the adjuster on the top of the carb that is behind until they are opening at the same time. When they are properly adjusted, you will only hear one click when they snap closed, and there will be a little bit of free play in the throttle cable.

Posted

Appreciate the info. The screw goes into the carb a good bit. I am suprised that it needs to go further. I'll just grind some more off and keep screwing it in.

ALSO: Does my jetting seem about right? I am really suprised that I need to go up more. It might be dead on right now but I want to go up until it bogs. Guess I need to buy 320's and 330's?

Posted

Appreciate the info. The screw goes into the carb a good bit. I am suprised that it needs to go further. I'll just grind some more off and keep screwing it in.

ALSO: Does my jetting seem about right? I am really suprised that I need to go up more. It might be dead on right now but I want to go up until it bogs. Guess I need to buy 320's and 330's?

Looking at how far the screw is in the carb is misleading, because once it is inside the carb, it still has to screw into the angled slot in the slide to actually move the slide up to change the idle speed.

Posted

Looking at how far the screw is in the carb is misleading, because once it is inside the carb, it still has to screw into the angled slot in the slide to actually move the slide up to change the idle speed.

Yes I see what your talking about. I will just grind some more off until I can screw it in far enough to get a good idle. Won't be able to work on it until get days off work again. Hopefully I can get it fine tuned then. Ordered some more jets from Vito's. I got a geeling i'm dead on with the 310 but wanna go up to make sure and do a plug chop after I get the idle worked out. I could feel it really pull up top and I never even hit 6th gear.

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