CUTTING PIPES

[gotnos]

DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO DO THIS ? EMAIL ME PHLAVA2U102@YAHOO.COM

 

they cut about an inch out of the belly of the head pipe to make it rev out into the high rpm ranges like the drag pipes do. the next biggest advantage of having them is they are almost completely out of the way of your legs unlike the inframe drag pipes.

[locogato11283]

what pipes are you talking about? and what pipe will be totally out of the way of your leg by only cutting an inch out of them? cutting an inch out of the belly of a pipe might make a big difference performance wise, but physically its going to be barely noticeable.

[RZBansheeMan]

The only pipes I ever heard of being shortened in the belly section , was the old Toomey T - 3 pipes to give them a higher top end pull .

[bansheesandrider]

The only pipes I ever heard of being shortened in the belly section , was the old Toomey T - 3 pipes to give them a higher top end pull .

I have a set of Engine Trix pipes on my 89 that I was told are actually Coffman pipes that have been cut, I don't know if that is actually what Engine Trix did to make them. My wifes bike has T3s that were cut, Iwas told 3/4 inch out of the chanber on T3s.

[locogato11283]

yea ive heard of the t-3 pipes being cut for sure. i was just curious as to how youd physically move the pipe far enough to actually notice.

[WantABanshee]

I have a set of T-3's and have been wanting more information on doing this too

[LS1Inferno]

No offense to anyone who wants to do this, but WHY? There are SOOO many used sets of pipes everywhere. Chances are that once your done you aren't going have them refinished or anything so why not find a nasty set of straight T-5's?

[gst_r]

Hi here is a pic from my cut T3 pipes, i bought this set of pipes and silencers already cut for 90 dlls, for this price i cannot complain, also they hit hard and work great on my engine, i know maybe a set of sheares or CPIS would be better but they are more expensive, about issues with this set cut is that the rear plastics will get burn, my pingel valve and filters get too close to the pipes, this pipes were made for J arm frames, but they can get fit on the a-arm frame you will just need to grind the bolt from the upper a-arm because it hit the pipe, here is pic so you can compare how much are they cut, Dave Moore on his site mentions this pipes

[Snopczynski]

You dont need to cut pipes anymore. They did that back in the day with T3's because no one made drag pipes back in the mid 90's. Now there are tons of drag pipe options, so its not needed anymore. Just buy a pipe that does what you want it to do. If you want a tucked pipe, buy the PT high revs.

Edited February 1, 2010 by Snopczynski

[WantABanshee]

Hi here is a pic from my cut T3 pipes, i bought this set of pipes and silencers already cut for 90 dlls, for this price i cannot complain, also they hit hard and work great on my engine, i know maybe a set of sheares or CPIS would be better but they are more expensive, about issues with this set cut is that the rear plastics will get burn, my pingel valve and filters get too close to the pipes, this pipes were made for J arm frames, but they can get fit on the a-arm frame you will just need to grind the bolt from the upper a-arm because it hit the pipe, here is pic so you can compare how much are they cut, Dave Moore on his site mentions this pipes

 

I have the T-3's also and know what problems your having. Heres what you need to do to fix both issues of them rubbing on your plastics and airbox/pods. Take them off your bike. Get a broom handle and a torch and head up your headpipe until it gets cherry red and slightly bend your headpipe out towards your leg. Then take the bend out of your silencer until it clears both using the same method. Well worth it. IT ruins the chrome but you can get it to fit perfect.