AKheathen Posted February 6, 2009 Report Posted February 6, 2009 as for mixing coolant, just make sure you don't mix long life, and conventional. you can mix all brands of conventional together. i would test it too, to make sure it doesn't break down to a different ph level. the system is only like 2.5 qts, so it's no real cost at all to change :thumbsup: Quote
BlasterKX Posted February 6, 2009 Report Posted February 6, 2009 if you can get ur hands on a blaster kill switch for cheap that works right you can just match the color of wires up and connect e and boom there ya go a working kill switch. its what i had to do with mine.lol Quote
blaster2006 Posted February 6, 2009 Author Report Posted February 6, 2009 as for mixing coolant, just make sure you don't mix long life, and conventional. you can mix all brands of conventional together. i would test it too, to make sure it doesn't break down to a different ph level. the system is only like 2.5 qts, so it's no real cost at all to change :thumbsup: yeah, i dont mind at all.. easy we drain the radiator.. right.. but.. there is still some coolant left in the jugs + head, so it will still be considered "mixing". also talking about coolants, all the shops here sell different kinds, what kinds should i be looking for, anything specific? Quote
DallasGDub Posted February 6, 2009 Report Posted February 6, 2009 Their is a drain screw on the side of each jug, it gets most of the water out of the head. Whatever is left, wont really make a big diff. Engine ice is what I like to use in hot ass TX heat. Quote
BlasterKX Posted February 6, 2009 Report Posted February 6, 2009 i usualy use 50/50 mix. its what my buddies use Quote
swrbansheeboy Posted February 7, 2009 Report Posted February 7, 2009 heres some food for thought... you said that you ditched the bottle and you had coolant coming out of the overflow tube. now is the problem that you now have coolant puking out of the overflow that you can see of that you need a coolant bottle installed so you cant see that you have coolant puking out of the overflow? to me all a coolant bottle does is mask the fact that your overheating the engine, if your heating up enough that your spitting coolant then you have some other problem and all the bottle is doing is hiding the problem.... to me basicly what your saying is "while i had my coolant bottle installed i couldnt tell that i was puking coolant from my radiator, but now that i removed it i can see that its blowing out all over the place. now i want to re-install my coolant bottle so i cant see the problem anymore..." check your jetting (i know, your builder said it's spot on. thats what builders do...) and check that your impelers working properly. maybe your radiator is plugged up? Quote
blaster2006 Posted February 7, 2009 Author Report Posted February 7, 2009 (edited) heres some food for thought... you said that you ditched the bottle and you had coolant coming out of the overflow tube. now is the problem that you now have coolant puking out of the overflow that you can see of that you need a coolant bottle installed so you cant see that you have coolant puking out of the overflow? to me all a coolant bottle does is mask the fact that your overheating the engine, if your heating up enough that your spitting coolant then you have some other problem and all the bottle is doing is hiding the problem.... to me basicly what your saying is "while i had my coolant bottle installed i couldnt tell that i was puking coolant from my radiator, but now that i removed it i can see that its blowing out all over the place. now i want to re-install my coolant bottle so i cant see the problem anymore..." check your jetting (i know, your builder said it's spot on. thats what builders do...) and check that your impelers working properly. maybe your radiator is plugged up? i think my problem is not how you think it is, there are 2 tubes, 1 tube, that gos at the bottom of the overflow bottle, and one tube that is on top of the overflow, normally, i would assume that the bottom one is sucking coolant, and the top one just dumps out extra coolant. now, i was astonished... simply because.. i noticed that coolant was slowly dripping from the tube that was at the BOTTOM of the coolant overflow, which is supposed to suck coolant, knowing that the one on top is the overflow one. this is why im abit scared that coolant is dropping from the wrong tube.. my spark plugs are black, insulator is black.. infact heres a pic of the plugs.. after i rode it for no more than 10 minutes. Edited February 7, 2009 by blaster2006 Quote
vulvafan537240 Posted February 7, 2009 Report Posted February 7, 2009 i think my problem is not how you think it is, there are 2 tubes, 1 tube, that gos at the bottom of the overflow bottle, and one tube that is on top of the overflow, normally, i would assume that the bottom one is sucking coolant, and the top one just dumps out extra coolant.now, i was astonished... simply because.. i noticed that coolant was slowly dripping from the tube that was at the BOTTOM of the coolant overflow, which is supposed to suck coolant, knowing that the one on top is the overflow one. this is why im abit scared that coolant is dropping from the wrong tube.. my spark plugs are black, insulator is black.. infact heres a pic of the plugs.. after i rode it for no more than 10 minutes. yes the plugs are black, but did you put them in and do a wot plug test with the bike already warmed up? or did you idle and lug it around a bit and let it heat up with the plugs already in? Quote
blaster2006 Posted February 7, 2009 Author Report Posted February 7, 2009 i just rode it.. normally.. did not do a plug chop..alot of people say its stupid.. and you can get a good figure from looking at the spark plug. besides, it runs fine.. Quote
dragbanshee Posted February 7, 2009 Report Posted February 7, 2009 i just rode it.. normally.. did not do a plug chop..alot of people say its stupid.. and you can get a good figure from looking at the spark plug. besides, it runs fine.. I cant remember, did you do a comp. check? You prolly otta do one for the hell of it. Like I said before you cannot check your plugs like that, you can putt around all day long, your going to show rich more than likely. Your bike may feel like its running great, which they will a lot of times while their lean. Do a search on plug chop or the old fasion way, same basics without wasting your plug, if thats what your worried about. PLUG CHOP= If it didn't work, we wouldn't suggest it! Quote
DallasGDub Posted February 7, 2009 Report Posted February 7, 2009 The bottom tube is the overflow tube from the rad. The top tube does not connect to anything else. It is breather/overflow tube for the bottle itself. The bottom tube will spit fluid out in the bottle, then once the bike cools off, it sucks it back in the same tube. This was stated before. Your right, you do not have to do a plug chop, but you do have to check the plugs the right way. NOT ride it around normal. Put in new plugs, WOT through the gears, Kill the bike while in 6th, and roll to a stop. Pull the plugs, get a flashlight and look down inside the plug. Should be a med dark choco ring around the white electrode. If it is a light color, your lean. That simple. If you can not see it, then chop the top off. Bring extra plugs to get you back just in case. It is all trouble shooting. You elminate one reason at a time. We can't just point and say this is the reason your heating up. Start with the easy, and fig out if your lean. If not, people will be able to move on to the next step. Quote
blaster2006 Posted February 7, 2009 Author Report Posted February 7, 2009 (edited) The bottom tube is the overflow tube from the rad. The top tube does not connect to anything else. It is breather/overflow tube for the bottle itself. The bottom tube will spit fluid out in the bottle, then once the bike cools off, it sucks it back in the same tube. This was stated before. Your right, you do not have to do a plug chop, but you do have to check the plugs the right way. NOT ride it around normal. Put in new plugs, WOT through the gears, Kill the bike while in 6th, and roll to a stop. Pull the plugs, get a flashlight and look down inside the plug. Should be a med dark choco ring around the white electrode. If it is a light color, your lean. That simple. If you can not see it, then chop the top off. Bring extra plugs to get you back just in case. It is all trouble shooting. You elminate one reason at a time. We can't just point and say this is the reason your heating up. Start with the easy, and fig out if your lean. If not, people will be able to move on to the next step. well 1 thing i can say, my 6th gear does NOT PULL, its really weak, as it was like that before i even modded my bike also. unless i REDLINE 5th gear. the 6th gear has no pull. i aslo did do a compression test.. i got 125 psi on left cyl, 120 psi on the right one, but the adapter i put in the cyl had very short threads, it was maybe only 1/3 of how big the br8es spark plugs are. so im guessing its over 120 psi. as for when you said about how it sucks coolant when its cooler, exactly my point why you should need a bottle and not ditch the bottle like most people do, meaning it now just spills out coolant but it trys to suck in some when cool but it cant since there is no bottle. exactly my point, so its trying to suck in coolant at some points but it just cant cause there is no overflow bottle. Edited February 7, 2009 by blaster2006 Quote
vulvafan537240 Posted February 8, 2009 Report Posted February 8, 2009 (edited) i just rode it.. normally.. did not do a plug chop..alot of people say its stupid.. and you can get a good figure from looking at the spark plug. besides, it runs fine.. like DallasGDub and i said, you dont have to a plug chop, just put new plugs in after its warmed up and run it wot and pull em immediately and inspect. you post about 1 million times a day asking questions about that piece of junk but when anybody tries to help, you act like you know it all. either inspect the plugs to see if youre lean or chance it with locking it up. based on what youve said in previous threads your mechanic is a clown anyway so trust him if you want to. the hq prolly has more combined knowledge of shees than all those pigmy japs that designed it so i think all your needed info is on here. Edited February 8, 2009 by volfan537240 Quote
lokisbuddy Posted February 8, 2009 Report Posted February 8, 2009 like DallasGDub and i said, you dont have to a plug chop, just put new plugs in after its warmed up and run it wot and pull em immediately and inspect. you post about 1 million times a day asking questions about that piece of junk but when anybody tries to help, you act like you know it all. either inspect the plugs to see if youre lean or chance it with locking it up. based on what youve said in previous threads your mechanic is a clown anyway so trust him if you want to. the hq prolly has more combined knowledge of shees than all those pigmy japs that designed it so i think all your needed info is on here. Preach on Brotha!!!!!! :biggrin: Quote
blaster2006 Posted February 8, 2009 Author Report Posted February 8, 2009 just did a plug chop... heated it 1min.. put new plugs, kicked it and raced myself.... wot wot as much as i can... rode it for about 3 mins hard... took out plugs i can see dark brownish colors down the plug. guess im good now guaranteed. that im good to go as for main jets. also btw, volfan, i looked at your sig, youve got more mods than me, including the Pods ive got, and your running 290 mains, and where i live its VERY hot, today afternoon it was actually hot.. about 75 degrees. where i live in the middle east its hottt... coldest it got was 60 F. its 60-80 degrees here. i think ill need to richen the needle and move the needle up.. Quote
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