Banshee build going baddddddddd

[J-Madd]

If it is kicking back and it's not an exotic engine, then you for sure have a timing problem. Are you sure the woodruff key between the crank and flywheel is installed and not allowing the flywheel to slip and automatically adjust your base timing? :geek:

 

 

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[gclark63]

bump!!

[Paddleboy]

If it is kicking back and it's not an exotic engine, then you for sure have a timing problem. Are you sure the woodruff key between the crank and flywheel is installed and not allowing the flywheel to slip and automatically adjust your base timing? :geek:

 

 

When you checked the timing, did actually pull the flywheel off? The key could be sheared, or key way screwed up. I have a flywheel with the key way wollered(sp?) out, but you can't tell by looking. It will get out of time, then you can loosen, and re tighten the flywheel slowly and put it back in time. I kicked the crap out, and it would only occasionally kick back and backfire when out of time.

 

Replaced the flywheel and all is good.

 

have you checked you key to make sure it isnt sheared?

[gclark63]

have you checked you key to make sure it isnt sheared?

Just finnished taking fly wheel off, key was in good shape, fly wheel seemed to be in sound condition. Set the timing back to 0*. it sounded better but still would not start and only back fired and kicked back a couple of times. I am hoping the new CDI box will do the trick. Hope to have it in next wednesday.

[FireHead]

Just finnished taking fly wheel off, key was in good shape, fly wheel seemed to be in sound condition. Set the timing back to 0*. it sounded better but still would not start and only back fired and kicked back a couple of times. I am hoping the new CDI box will do the trick. Hope to have it in next wednesday.

If the OEM CDI doesn't work, and you have compression, then you certainly have an air leak (that's all that's left that could make it kick back).

 

With regard to the choke tube o-ring question that was asked: You'll either have to by a new OEM chocke assembly (~$45) or go to a specialty industrial supply joint and have them match them up. :geek:

[gclark63]

If the OEM CDI doesn't work, and you have compression, then you certainly have an air leak (that's all that's left that could make it kick back).

 

With regard to the choke tube o-ring question that was asked: You'll either have to by a new OEM chocke assembly (~$45) or go to a specialty industrial supply joint and have them match them up. :geek:

So you don't think a bad CDI could cause this? How can an air leak cause it to miss fire or seem as if its firing out of time?

[hylander88]

Any sugestions on where to get another o-ring for it? ( the choke, mine is a bit wore)

the O-rings are metric when looking for them if you looking the an o-ring kit, and yea the whole assemble is about 45 bucks and they are the same as a blaster.....

[gclark63]

the O-rings are metric when looking for them if you looking the an o-ring kit, and yea the whole assemble is about 45 bucks and they are the same as a blaster.....

thanks

[gclark63]

okay, so I have replaced the o-ring in the choke, carbs are clean, found a working cdi off a running banshee, and no luck. Would act like it wants to start but will not run. Using the adjustable timing plate tried everything from +10 to -10 it seemed to have the best sounds at around -4. Main jet is 340 and looks like I am way to rich, back fires but will not run. I can not find any air leaks, helpppppppppppppppppppppp!!!

[gclark63]

Okay, I have been hearing about people welding the cranks. What is the purpose of this? Could my crank have some how slipped and now my timing is way off????????????????

[hylander88]

how was the gap on the pick-up coil to the flywheel is it just barely touching or is there a bigger gap???

[Tim Potteiger]

The only time I ever had a Banshee kick back and/or backfire was when one of the wires from the pick up had a slight melt in the insulation and it was jumping to ground on the case. When it did start, it backfired and ran like crap. I would seriously inspect the wiring harness inside the stator area for any burns.

 

As to the crank question, stock banshee cranks are made of more than 20 pieces pressed together and doweled, and yes they can twist but usually only under extreme horsepower. banshee bottom ends are pretty damn though, so it isn't likely to be your problem.

 

Engines need 3 things to run: spark, fuel and air (and obviously some compression to make those 3 work).

[bansheejoel]

mine did the same thing when i melted my harness to one of my damn silencers.

[gclark63]

how was the gap on the pick-up coil to the flywheel is it just barely touching or is there a bigger gap???

pick-up gap is at .019~.020, new stator and pick-up.

[gclark63]

The only time I ever had a Banshee kick back and/or backfire was when one of the wires from the pick up had a slight melt in the insulation and it was jumping to ground on the case. When it did start, it backfired and ran like crap. I would seriously inspect the wiring harness inside the stator area for any burns.

 

As to the crank question, stock banshee cranks are made of more than 20 pieces pressed together and doweled, and yes they can twist but usually only under extreme horsepower. banshee bottom ends are pretty damn though, so it isn't likely to be your problem.

 

Engines need 3 things to run: spark, fuel and air (and obviously some compression to make those 3 work).

Brand new stator and pick-up. I replaced theold stator because I thought it was the stator. I completely rewired it ( replaced old wires in harness with new wires. I can find no short any where?

 

I don't know if my Banshee had serious hp, displacement is375cc, hot rod crank and rods, was running 17cc domes at 4* advanced and 340 mains, with 112 race gas. There was not much at the dunes that could keep up with it. it would totally smoke the stock banshees.

All specs stayed the same during the rebuild except I went with 22cc domes so I could use pump gas.

 

During the rebuild I did not split the case, the cranks seals looked fine and compresion on the cylinders was high 147psi~150psi

 

I am out of ideas! That was why I wondered about the crank?