Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'bottom end'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • General Banshee Discussions
    • BansheeHQ Gear
    • General Banshee Discussion
    • Riding and Events Forum
  • Modifications & Parts
    • Banshee Repairs and Mods
    • Jetting & Exhaust Forum
    • Product Reviews
    • Banshee Appearance
    • Suspension
    • YFZ - Banshee Conversion Forum
    • Technical Info
    • Sponsor Spotlight
  • Racing Forums
    • XC/Hare Scramble Forum
    • Flat Track/TT
    • Drag Forum
    • Sand Forum
    • MX Forum
    • Hillclimb
  • Swap Shop
    • For Sale - Parts & Accessories
    • For Sale - Complete Bikes
    • For Sale - Tires
    • For Sale - Site Sponsors Items
    • For Sale - Non Banshee Related
    • Swap and Trade
    • Wanted
    • Online Auction Watch
  • Off-Topic Discussions (non-Banshee)
    • Site Announcements
    • Humor
    • Computers and Technology
    • Cars and Trucks
    • Sports
    • Side x Sides
    • Guns and Ammo
  • Stories & Help Forums
    • Rides Of Shame
    • Roostin' Room


  • BansheeHQ Calendar of Events

Product Groups

  • BansheeHQ Premium Membership

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







My Banshee (optional)

Found 9 results

  1. Hey guys, I built this banshee engine and I was having problems like the ones mention on the thread that I’ve linked below. Now I’ve ridden the bike and when I go into second under a lot of load, I get a false neutral, same with 6th. I replaced the 3rd gear wheel, my 6th pinion gear had a broken tooth but the dogs looked alright, maybe a bit worn when I was riding, at the start, second gear was fine, however my shifter came loose so I thought I was shifting into neutral instead of second, when I changed my shifter I was getting false neutrals in 2nd ive changed the eccentric screw and the shift shaft spring
  2. I have opened up the bottom end and put my shift shaft, drum, star and gears back in. The adjustment on the eccentric screw seems good, note that when I change gears, the adjustment gets a bit worse in some gears. What happens is when I spin the shafts and shift gears, every now and then, the gears get stuck. This means that I can’t spin the shafts anymore, but when I remove and put the shafts back in, it works. It looks like the dogs aren’t going into the gaps fully. I have rebuild these gears, replaced the 3rd gear and the 6th gear pinion IMG_0310.MOV
  3. I am rebuilding my motor and i have some small imperfections, for example I didnt use the locating pin for the shift drum, i don't have the bearing stopper plate that goes to the shaft behind the clutch, when i shift gears, the gap between the pins and the shift shaft changes whenever i switch gear. in first gear the gaps are equal but when i switch gear it usually gets more uneven. Also, does it really matter which way the washers and cerclips go on the mainshaft and countershaft? if they face inwards or outwards? This is my first engine build btw.
  4. Hi, this is my first time taking apart a motor so I’m kind of learning as I go. My local store only had the one brand of sealant and the guy said it would work but on the back it says that it dissolves in gas. So I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice if this stuff will work or not. Thanks
  5. i need help rebuilding my banshee i think i just need to rebuild the top end but im not sure how to tell if the crank needs replacing also one exuast was smoking more than the other when it was running let me know thanks also had some old cylinders that i barely used was wondering if i could make them good again
  6. Hi, I’m new here since I just barely acquired my first banshee. I think I got a great deal on it and can’t wait to get it going. The only problem is it’s missing the bottom end of the engine. This meaning the cases, crank, stator, covers, trans, clutch, etc. I have had no luck finding just a bottom end. Wondering if any of you have one that you’ll sell me. Doesn’t matter if it needs a new crank or not. The 98 banshee came with Toomey T5 pipes which are quite rusty; but im going to try to bring the shine back, v force reeds, boost bottle, brand new WSM std size pistons, and tors delete kit. Not sure if the cylinders just need a hone. Here’s some pictures. Thanks!
  7. Hey guys! So I was recommended to weld my flywheel puller on to my fucked flywheel to get it off. Well, it didn't work and I am a shitty welder. I also don't think the welder was getting hot enough (Harbor Freight ). Oh well, it was worth a try. So, does anyone know of a shop preferably in Orange County, California that can remove this flywheel? I would like to keep the stator intact and not mar the crank also. But I have a feeling this thing is going to need to be pressed off and if that doesn't work, cut off. And if it has to be cut, I can say goodbye to my stator.
  8. i ran me shee without oil for about 2 miles DOH! i plan on replacing gaskets and all bearings if nothing else looks like it needs attention. But i figure while im in the bottom end i want to make sure ill never have to split the cases again while i own my shee. What do you guys recommend without breaking the bank? im mainly looking to never have to split the cases again but is there anything that has got a good bang for the buck while im into it? all input is welcome
  9. hey everyone, i bought mayself another banshee, in overall good shape. it does need new crank seal (stator side) and a top end. they guy told me that the head studs were stripped out and that was the only issue. i found the seal issue and that the cylinders will need bored if anyone is gonna buy them. they are stock but the studs on top have thread inserts holding them in, IT IS COMPLETE, but i will list some...ALL PRICES ARE PLUS SHIPPING AND OBO!! for more info or picture of parts text 814-558-5431 or PM me. what you see is what you get. air box, filter and lid- $50 intake boots (all 4)- $35 nice plastics yellow monster energy- make offer rims and tires- $80 rear $75 front rear axle and carrier- $85 seat no rips w/ cover- $55 radiator- $40 reed cages and reeds- $40 Boost bottle $20 Swingarm- $60 complete motor ( cylinders need bored out but are stock, have seals just need put in- make offer a arms- Make offer tie rods- $40 steering stem- $40 stator (belive its aftermarket)- $75 CDI box- $60 Coil- $50 Harness- $40 key and on off switch- $45 Carbs with slides and cable- $85 thumb throttle- $30 Flywheel- $75 sprockets- $40 both Rear brake system- $70 front brake system- $75 rear hubs- $35 Front spindles- $55 Handle bars- $25 Gas tank- $40 kick start- $35 shocks- make offer headlights- $45 bumper (aftermarket)- $45 wheelie bar- $20 pro circuit pipes- make offer shock linkage, misc nuts and bolt and whatever i am missing make offer.
  • Create New...