Turbo J

I need to weld a stress crack in my 89 stock swing arm. the stress crack is were the cross tube meets the right side main tube near the rear shock linkage mount. Thought I seen a post on here recently about not arc welding the swing arm because it can weaken the metal around it. What's the truth here. Am i OK to lay a bead over this stress crack with a stick welder or shall I have it mig welded? Thanks Turbo

Is anyone running aftermarket steel braided brake lines. I have the stock ones now and want to know if it is worth the $$$ to convert. If you like them what kind are you useing and where did you get them from. Thanks

I need to pick up my engine from the machine shop this week. I had the head milled .020 just to be safe. This is the first rebuild that I have done on my 89, but I am certain it has been done before at least a couple times. The reason I am telling you this is that I had to replace my crank due to excessive rod play at the small end. If you do not know the condition of your crank I would be cautious with adding additional power if the bike is still using the original crank. You stated that you are on the original bore, I would bet those cylinders are new or have been resleeved if that is true on an 87 Banshee. If a crank is needed I think I got a great deal from www.magicracing.com for a Vito's performance crank....Just my cents.

Just take an inch of standard size automotive vacuum and cut one side for the length of the hose. Then just put that on the chock shaft. Then when you are done with the choke take the hose off and put it on your clutch cable near the lever for storage...works great for me...Turbo

I have had great luck with a product called plastic renew from PC Racing. But have only done a couple sets of red fenders.

Sick Boy is right. I have the Pro Design K&N setup but ordered the replacement Pro Design foam filter, because I wanted to switch. Sure enough my new foam filter has a round opening and will not fit to my oval adaptor. I'm just gonna use the K&N with the foam outerwear...

If it were me I would just check the wobble in the hub with the front wheel removed. If there is no wobble and it spins freely I think the bearings are fine. Also, you should check that the seals are in place and in good shape. In regards to the arm bushings, again all i do is check for excess play. If none you are in good shape. Don't skimp here because it can effect handling a lot, especially at Banshee speeds...Later Turbo

I think I was caught by the same thing. The Pro Design foam filter will not fit the K&N billet adaptor I thnk that is stupid to design it that way... PS I have a Pro Design dual stage foam filter for sale unused and cheap...

Guys, I have the top end off of my 89 Banshee for my first rebuild (I am sure its not the first for the bike) and everything is lookin good. I do have a crank question though. Per my Clymers manual it says you can have up to 2mm side to side movement at the small end of the rod. The big end movement on the crank is within spec as checked with a feeler gauge but I am little leary of this side to side wiggle. I think I am within spec as best I can measure without a dial indicator. Is this normal how concerned should I be, what other checks can I do from the top of the case? Thanks in advance for the feedback.

When you guys say TDR reeds, which type of TDR reeds are you referring too. Tony Doukas makes two types, I think one is an OEM replacement and the other is a dual stage...Thanks for the feedback.

I bet the boonman is smiling after that conclusion...

What's Up Guys... I'm pretty sure they would be but would a set of shocks off of a 2000 banshee work on my 89 J-Arm bike? Thanks Turbo.

I sent you a PM. Would you consider selling the rear shock only?

Does anyone have a left side J-Arm in good condition? I am interested in buying one, mine is bent slightly. Please PM me or e-mail to [email protected] Thanks Turbo

OK Thanks guys, I trust your opinions more so than my phone conversation with this machine shop guy. I will do the standard next size bore and he will do what he calls a clean up port job aka chamfer the ports after bore. Then go with a 25 thou head job.... My only hope now is that the con rods are within spec in regards to side to side wiggle...Turbo

Hey Guys, I am prepping to do my first top end rebuild on my 89 Banshee. I am certain this will not be the first but hopefully I will have several bores left. My question is regarding milling the head or milling off about .030 off of the bottom of each cylinder jug. I have not heard of the cylinder mill concept but according to a reputable local shop they have had good luck with this as opposed to the head grind. They said that the head grind will raise comp. and help performance, but the cylinder grind also helps slightly change the port timing for the better. I don't know which route to take. My current set-up is just FMF fatties, K&N w/outerwear, carbon fiber reeds. I was considering Vito's super stock pistons but this machine shop has tried them and said I would be better with Wiseco forged. Any and all fedback would be appreciated...Thanks Turbo J

I don't have personal experience with these companies, but you could look at www.atvseatcovers.com www.badsaddle.com www.verdepowersports.com The back of Dirtwheels magazine has several ads for this...Later Turbo

I am in need of a kick start lever or lever and clamp piece. I have the clamp piece still on the bike. Please e-mail me at [email protected], or post on this message...Thanks

Do you have a kick start lever? Mine is laying on the trail somewhere...Thanks

Thanks for the feedback, anybody got a kick start lever laying around. I checked ebay yesterday.

Does anyone have a good kick start lever they would like to sell? Mine is laying somewhere on the trail in Waterloo IA. I have the perch that clamps onto the shaft its just the lever that I need. Does anyone think the expensive after-market ones are worth the money, what do gain with them? Thanks for the feedback...Turbo J