Banchetta

Now don't I feel sheeeepish!!!!

who are you going to listen to, a bunch of kids that obviously never worked on a shee, or people who build and run motors hard at max performance and tune motors like an art because they love it and not because they have to???

I rode a shee w/ them and they are a really good all around pipe... I suggest them to anyone for both types of riding.....

sounds like the tors is kickin in...Disconnect the parking brake switch on the handlebars and the little black box above the left exhaust. Just unplug them at the connector..problem solved....

Timing could be a problem, but shouldn't. The race fuel needs a little more advancing then low octane. I'd think the +7 would work nice but try the +4 and go from there....I'd start w/ a 175 main at 60 degrees and even higher for colder temps...Some people have run a 185 mains w/ the porting.....what do your plug look like when you do a wot test run in 6th gear??That'll tell you....you could also have a bad wire connection on the plugs...try the timing and go from there...

Run some 18cc domes if your at sea level or 17cc domes if you up 1000' or more and run race fuel....You might even want to raise the timing up to +7 for the race fuel. It has a slighter delay over lower octane.....send those cylinders out for a full port job and you will smoke him....do you ride w/ knobby tires or paddles?? The best mod would be the 4mm though... keep us informed on how you make out w/ those carbs....

I'm stumped on this one.....you don't know anyone in your area w/ a shee!!?? I'll have more time after the holidays if you want to bring it up to Maine.....

What caused it is when your at the line and revving the motor w/ the clutch slightly engaging....my shee started to do the same thing one day when I was dragracing on asphault. I tried to slip the clutch to stop wheeling on take off and started to heat up the clutch rod and ball. The clutch lever was hard as hell, but broke free. Been fine since..I guess I got lucky and I no longer rev my motor w/ the clutch slightly engaged for any period at the line now...

300 mains, 21cc domes for 93 octane gas at sea level.

The noss head will give you a few bike lengths in 500' and even more after....I'd also put a +4 timing advance, and depending on your riding, you can gain some w/ dual K&N pods...as long as you don't go through water...what are your air box mods and what are his???

Wouldn't hurt to try it, my friend isn't the best mechanic and it made the sled rev at an idle...He couldn't get it to stop revving out so he just pulled them back out...it might have been something he did, I don't know....

If he has porting, then he will beat any of you that don't...the larger carbs will help w/ porting. Also depends a lot in the rider....every little bit helps..

Damn, you have more problems then I've ever had w/ all 4 of my shees!!!! I feel for you man.... Alright, well you first had spark and lost spark after changing the spark plugs??? I'd start there first. You must have lost a connection when you pulled the plugs??? Check the wires on the coil?? orange and black,, make sure they are tight...disconnect the black/white or yellow striped wire on the handlebars that go from the kill switch to the gas tank...that'll bypass your kill switch on the handlebars....also check the wire on the side of the air box..maybe when you kicked it over, it lost connection...

Oops, my bad... So the white piece has two holes in it for the little petals....If so, then you have it right....Sorry to worry you. I just never seen boysens w/ the white....looked like 3 pieces instead of two....

It has to run..Spark and fuel = running... Try pouring a little gas in the spark plug hole and see what happens. If it starts then its not getting fuel. If it doesn't then you have another problem....You can also check the reeds....

Too soft or too smooth.. You wan't smooth suspension...Adjust the rear spring to ride height.. you should pull the wheelie bar up until the suspension is all the way up and measure from the ground to the wheelie bar...now sit on it and have someone measure it again.. you should have around 2.5" of sag or difference in measurement....If it still rides too soft, then stiffen the compression knob on top of the shock...

Is that white piece part of the larger petals??? It looks like the white piece is separate....Looks like there is 3 pieces...white piece, larger petals, then little carbon fiber petals....Am I wrong??

The steel handlebars are less forgiving...I'd go w/ the aluminum, they flex more on impact and wouldn't have as much of a hit on the wrist...I'd also adjust the castor on the arms...I had a +9 degree castor and +4.5 camber that would work awesome on sand. Steering was spot on and had less sensitivity to whoops and bumps as far as the kicking affect....You can even go w/ the +9 castor and 1-3 camber for a little slide on the front end, not much at all, but enough to stop any sudden steering change from bumps....The +9 castor will help aid in straight line running...it helps keep the steering straight when you let off the bars...I'd think it would be great for duning especially at high speeds. The downfall is if you go down a hill backwards, the front end will fishtail...As far as the stabilizer, I'd think that'd also be a plus. Never tried one, but a lot of mx guys use them to stop arm pump and fatigue over the moguls and bumps.....

Try larger pilot jet. Makes a big difference..

Run it wot in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, shut it down, coast to a stop, pull the plugs. Black is rich, brown is perfect, tan or white is lean...thats for ONLY the mains...Adjust the needle height for 1/4-3/4 throttle range..You can actually feel the difference w/ the needles..find the sweet spot. you should notice the lower rpms pulling harder...

Leave the mains and run it... If you never adjusted the needles then it might go better. If the needles are already spot on, then you might have to drop the needles one slot...I'd run it first and go from there...

Just pipes alone will make a shee do over 80....My mids get me to 88mph w/ a 14/37 gear and 20" tires....85mph w/ 14/39....

My friend tried them in his Formula sled and couldnt' get them to work.....

If you pull the choke after it warmed up, and it revs higher, then your pilots are lean..if it dies when warm and revs when cold, then your all good...if it dies when cold then your rich....