Banchetta

Well, I'm doing numerous mods w/ different combos...I had the perfect smoothest powerband, and lost it w/ my stroker, definately more pull, but put a dip in my curve before the powerband losing all my smoothness...I'm on a mission, so when your ready I'll have more info for you....

Have you looked into the intake yet from the air cleaner?? Can you hear BOTH slides bottoming out when you move the throttle??

Sounds like the needles are too rich. Lower them down to the 2nd clip from the blunt end. I bet it clears up alot....

ALL stock shees have a 25 pilot in them...Pc pipes have terrible idle and low end w/ stock 25's, they need way more fuel then other pipes on the pilot circuit..

42,48,50,55 pilots, 168,170,172,175 mains....It might cost about $50 bucks, but you'll have every jet you'll need or a good range of them....I run a 158 main, 42 pilots w/ my stroker motor...so as you can see, different mods and setups can vary...If you change something, you'll need to rejet and it'll be nice to have that flexibility...

Two things. Pc pipes like a richer pilot, at least for mine it did...Try a 30 pilot, that'll make a big difference. Also, make sure you didn't switch the carb bowls...ONly one carb bowl is for the choke carb.....Next, check your compression. Low compression will make a bike start hard when cold....Better to catch it now, before parts go flying...

what exactly do you call a "bog"?? Hesitation or spits and sputters like a rev limiter...Does it start up w/o the choke? Does it start hard when warm?? Have you tried different needle positions? Try raising the needles?

You'll have to pull one of the carbs and see, then go from there...If you need the choke to start, then the pilot will be close. I'd try lowering the needles one notch and go from there....The needles on the Keihins are very sensitive at 1/8-1/4 throttle. I'd try that first, it only takes 5 minutes and will get you closer....You have to raise the clip towards the blunt end to lower the needle....Let me know how that does....

Agreed, I had a 380 main w/ the mid pipes..I'd start around a 400 mains for the T5's. stock or 27.5 pilots, needles either 2nd clip or all the way down, so the clip closest to the blunt end....You won't use much potential of the stroker w/o changing the WHOLE intake from the box to the motor....Larger intake boots, carbs, reed cages, etc...You'll see huge gains and throttle response...

Cool, glad to hear its fixed....Ride on!!!!

Yea, but I had to give back some parts... , I just ordered a bunch of stuff, but it won't be this weekend to have it all, but It'll go pretty good w/ what I do have.....

Some people think so, but I don't. Adjust pilots to the throttle response of the shee....Trial and error. Its a bitch, but worth it....Nice try...

Ask around, someone will know...Do you have any dragstrips around your area? Small airports will sell it....Anyplace where racing is involved will have it....

measure it....

Sounds like a good starting point already, try is out and let us know what you have for symptoms..

Its really hard to say w/o riding it, the pilot and needles overlap, you have to find the right combination...When you say "bog", is it jerky and breakin up, or does it just hesitate and take a second to kick in? If your cruisin around at a constant throttle position, does it seem to load up at say 1/4 throttle...If so, then you rich, if it doesn't load up, but hesitates before powerband, then your lean... Move the clip down on the needles to richen it, 4th from the blunt end. Move the clip up to the 2nd clip from the blunt end to lean it out....If your fouling plugs, then the pilot is too rich....Does it start 1st kick w/ no choke when cold? Does it start really easy when warm?....

Well, you tell me, this is from going from ported stock cages to prodesign intake w/ v-force reeds...need I say more??

Anyone heard of these or know someone whos ran them?? They claim great increases and I need as much air flow w/ this stroker as possible...Any help would be greatly appreciated....

I agree w/ Sand Rocket, get a K&N w/ adaptor plate...Next, up your mains to 270's if you plan on running the lid. Raise your needles to the 4th clip from the blunt end, if it starts hard then go up to a 30 pilot...adjust air screws...Next, cut the end of the air box lid off, about 1.5" right behind the clips so you still have all 4....that'll make a huge difference..

Jetting can vary from shee to shee and ALL mods....Drilling holes won't do much, but cutting the last 1.5" off the end of the lid will make a big difference right behind the clips, so you still have all four....I use a skill saw to cut mine..Takes 2 seconds...

I just coated mine and threw them in, they've been holding up to my 4 mil stroker......No guarantees though, I dont' know exactly how long to soak them...My instructions just said "soak them".......didn't say how long.....dumb ass companies...

I liked my Duncan clutch. It lasted 4 years, but was back ordered a couple of weeks ago and I got an EBC....So far I like it......Pulls semi easy and holds up to my stroker....

Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow....

Why do you need a tie rap?? Your supposed to adjust the arm w/ the lever out.....

Soak them overnight if you can, if not, then long as possible...I dipped mine in oil and slapped them in....When you put the steel plates in, put the sharp edge in, so the chamfered edge is facing you......If you look on one side of the steel plate, its flat like a clean cut, the other side is rounded over (chamfered)....