Banchetta

Yes, its in Waterboro. If you are coming from biddeford, then take Rt111 to Rt 35. Follow Rt 35 about......6-7 miles until you reach Rt. 5. Turn left onto Rt. 5 (north). Follow Rt.5 about......5-6 miles and you'll merge w/ Rt 202. Bear left onto Rt.202 and Rt.5 for about a mile and you'll see Jellerson Rd on the left. Go about 150' and there is a plowed path beside a driveway that goes into the woods. I believe its the 2nd driveway on the left...... Honda frame w/ a yfz motor......at least they got the motor!!!!!

Yea, they decided yesterday that we will be having the annual race this weekend instead of next weekend....I didn't go to glamis this year. The old lady is having the baby next month and I couldn't chance not be here for the birth. So I've been tearing the hell out the track!!!

You don't actually think that I don't ride in the winter now, do you?? We built our own roadcoarse track on one of our ponds. We will be having our annual race in 2 weeks. You guys should come up for the weekend. Its not too far from the Dayton sand gravel pits. :cool:

Sounds to me, the guy before you left it outside in the rain...I've seen it before where the rain fill the silencers up w/ water over time....mixing w/ the unburnt oil inside. Once you start it..........walla, there is goes....try running it a little. Should clear up. If not and your fouling plugs left and right, then maybe he pulled some mods off and left the jetting really rich...

I'd start w/ 380's and work down from there..

Richening the needles made it sputter then drop them back to the 3rd clip...You could try the next size richer pilots and go from there...where do the air screws like to be at?? If the air screws like to be .5 turn out or less, then try a richer pilot, if the air screws like to be 1-2 turns out, then don't bother.....

I agree. Sputtering is a sign of richness..at 1/4 throttle, its most likely the needles...drop them to the 3rd clip and try it out...

Just kicking it over might give a false answer....It might grab enough when kicking it over, but not enough when the motor is revving...A rich jetting will lose a lot of hp....Lean jetting will too, but will make the motor run hot and melt pistons...You have to find the best jetting for the hardest pulls...

You pulled the plugs after a wot run in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, shut the bike off, coast to a stop, pull these plugs out and chopped them??? If not, then you need to....If you did, then your running too rich..doesn't look like a wide open run though.

Try lowering the needle. Your too rich on either the pilot or needle height...If the needle doesn't do it, then lower the pilot some more...Warmer weather will make you run too rich....we told you.

Color change....which color...you want the weld to be black and turning chocalate brown where the electrode bends and maintaining chocalate color across the tip...tan is lean.

Pull the clutch cover off, clutch basket, etc. try the leak down and see if the crank seal is leaking....

It could mean a lot of things...possible air leak, lean pilot jet, backward slides, equalizer tube not in place.

None of the orings were pinched and fine.....also check to see if the o-ring is wearing into the cylinder. Pull the dome off and look at the top of the cylinder where the o-ring would sit.. make sure there is no indentation from the o-ring.....becoming a problem w/ these. If thats ok, then check your impeller and make sure the plastic gear didn't break...If thats ok, then start the shee and watch for air bubbles in the radiator. You shouldn't see any. and should see the antifreeze circulate.

A 4 mill will pump a lot more air..If your running a mx or dune port, then I'd suggest a 35pwk carb. 162 mains, 42 pilot, DEK needle.

Yea, its wierd...The only pipes I've seen that like a richer pilot was the PC and CPI pipes...... other than that, all the other pipes that I''ve tried liked the 25 pilots. I've tried the fmf gnarlies, fatties, fmf high revs, Ptr mids, ptr highs, pc, trinity, toomey, bills, fmf sst's, CPI, shearer, and dmc.

Running the needles on the 5th clip will richen the mixture and make the shee run cooler, not hotter. If your air screws like to be at 2.5 turns out, then a larger pilot is defeating your purpose..Air screws at 2.5 turns out means your shee likes to be leaner....Going to a (27.5) richer pilot is not a good idea. Just because the pilots and air screws like to be lean, doesn't mean the needle won't like to be rich...different circuits in the carbs. Changing both won't tell you which change did what...

Good eye!!! I did misinterput that, but I still think it'll idle and run better w/ the 30 pilots...Try both Rob and let us know. When I had pc pipes on my shee, it didn't even like to start w/ 25 pilots, but others on here have said otherwise.....soo.....give the 25's a try...just for shits and giggles...

Lower the pilots and adjust the air screws....Why do need it to run for syncing???? Take a flashlight. Look inside the intake and adjust the slides until they bottom out. Then raise the slide 1 full turn. Do this to both sides and you'll be all set...

Trail riding and dragging 300', not really. Dragging 1/4 mile, then yea....but drag pipes are very violent coming into the powerband and make trail riding not fun and hard on the clutch and tires..very little gain for the very little dragging that you do compared to riding.....Rider can make more difference. Get really good at the lauches and no matter what others have for setups, if they suck, you'll beat them. Concentrate on setup, suspension is very important. I was untouched for years dragging everyone in 500' on hardpack, even 370R hondas...I'd take them out of the hole by 5 quads and even if they had more hp, we crossed the line before they caught up..I had PTR midrange pipes w/ 165psi. THATS IT!!.

C12 straight.....

Your way too rich. Try some 290 mains, 25 pilots, needle 4th clip...adjust the air screws to throttle response...Do you any air box mods? Filter?

If the air screws like to be 2.5 turns out, then go smaller on the pilot and start the air screws over again...idealy they should be between .5-1.5 turns out.. If you feel that its loading up, then drop the pilot....jetting is trial and error. This will help you learn about your shee...you'll find there is more potential in gaining hp and throttle response then most mods out there..Mods are worthless w/o tuning. W/ that said, you might want to learn how to jet your shee and start practicing...since modding a shee is endless..... :biggrin:

If I was you, I woudln't run wot until you figure out the overheating problem. Banshee don't overheat unless there is a problem...Like loco said, most likely one of the orings is leaking or pinched when you put the head on...Its very common. IF your pushing compression into the coolant, then there is a chance that coolant is getting into the cylinders. Enough coolant or the right placement of water in the middle of the piston will put a hole in the middle of the piston...Happened to JKJK's shee the day after he overheated...So find the problem at hand....It would also explain why you can't climb a hill beyond second gear....There is something severly wrong w/ that....I drag up dunes in 4th gear w/ a 15/38 gear w/ 8 paddle Haulers...Figure out the overheating problem first and work on the jetting next...Rich jetting will NOT create your shee to overheat...A good way to adjust mains is listen and feel how the motor pulls in a drag uphill or at the top of 6th gear. Sand tires rob a lot of hp and jetting is more sensitive and noticeable..the more of a load the easier you can notice the changes..Another good way is to rerace your buddy after a jetting change. If you only lose by 2 quads instead of 5, then your going to the right direction. Keep rejetting until you find the best pull..Your buddy might want to do the same once you get yours done and he's the one losing... :biggrin: Spend a day and both of you can learn from this.

Ditto, I've only seen large pilot in the PJ carbs. 42-48 for the PWK's