vdubn

I have a Banshee for sale that was just totally rebuilt in March of this year. All new plastics, except for the rear fender which has some typical whiteing that the blue plastics get. We have almost $800 in the neon powder coating alone. The pics don't do it justice, it is a lot brighter than it looks. We have easily $5000 into the bike (without the cost of the bike).. it adds up quick. - Engine was bored .020 over, with a new top end - New Clutch - Advance plate (set to 4.5 degrees advance) - Welded and trued crankshaft, new crank bearings (complete bottom end rebuild) - Tranny was inspected and in excellent condition - Shaved and rechambered head - Temp gauge - 6" Extended Swingarm (powder coated silver) - Billet flywheel and water pump covers - New X-Ring Chain - Renthal bars - New tank and front fender plastics (race cut) - Orange powder coated shock springs (front and rear) - Rebuilt rear shock for extended swing - New Bearings and bushings throughout - Chrome T5 Toomey pipes - K&N Filters with blue outerwears (airbox eliminated) - 22x11x8 11 Paddle Hauler Extremes with Red Label Douglas wheels - 21x7x8 Dunetracker front sand tires Virtually everything has been powder coated or painted, and the bike was just completely torn apart and reassembled this spring. Selling for $3800. We have too many bikes, and need to sell it to recoupe some money spent on the other ones. You can call 503-327-6445 (cell), or 503-647-1967 (home), or email me at dean@bvamotorsports.com Here are some pics:

In Oregon, where we currently live, the DMV doesn't track titles for ATv's, so the majority of ATV's here don't have them. We are thinking of moving to Illinois or Wisconsin, and wondering what the laws are out there? If titles are required, then we would need to sell a couple of our ATV's. Thanks for any help, Dean

PM sent, I have a 6" extended swing arm, and paddles that we might be interested in selling/trading.

Is the swingarm extended or stock length?

I have been told by a very reputable Banshee engine builder in my area, that Banshee's in general self destruct while running WOF in top gear if held there longer than 5 seconds. Just curious how long you were at WOT in top gear, each of the times the engine blew? For me, I'm never in top gear more than a second or two, if at all, but I do mostly dune riding, so that may be why. Good luck with figuring out the issue, I'm interested to see what you find out.

I have the same issue... new RS high output stator, just went through all of the wiring, but no lights at all. I'm guessing regulator as well, but curious if there is a test procedure to determine if that is the faulty part?

Well, after adjusting the gap, the spark is the same on both cylinders... not sure why, but that along with the pilot jet cleared it all up. I appreciate everyone's help.

You may actually have some other issues as well, depending on how long you actually were welding. Whenever welding, its imperetive that you get the ground as close to the welding location as possible. You need to especially make sure that the ground is in a location where the current won't have to find alternate routes. The other issue that you may need to check, is your crank bearings. If the current routed through the engine, or attempted to, it can actually jump/arc through the bearings and pit them and/or the crankshaft journals. I've seen pumps with pitted shafts, engines with totally messed bearings (both clevite and ball bearing types), from people putting the ground on the crankshaft and welding on the block itself. Hopefully all of the current just went through your harness, and didn't toast the stator, CDI, regulator, etc. By the way, it may be cheaper just to get a new harness, they are about $90 new form a few sources. I'm not trying to rub in what I'm sure is already a sore subject, just trying to make sure that you check everything out thoroughly. Good luck

I agree with getting your crank trued and welded, I just did the same since I had my engine torn down.... I'd also recommend having your crank bearings replaced before they weld it, it saves you any chance of having problems down the road. I think it was $75 for welding and trueing, and $70 for bearings... once its done, rev er to the moon (just kidding).

One of the mufflers on a set of T3's we have has an irregular flange, so there is a slight gap between the stinger and the muffler. I tried to straighten the stinger to make it more flat, but it still has some slight gap... enough to leak some fuel residue, and is a bit louder than it should be. Have any of you guys used gasket material or anything that would work well for this? Thanks...

Ok, well I finally figured out the problem (or problems). First of all, the stator gap was too wide. Initially I couldn't get it closer than .020" after I installed the adjustable timing plate, but last night I checked the spark on the left side, and it was weaker than the right. Spark was there, but not nearly as big and blue as the right side. The second issue that caused the majority of the problem, was that the pilot jet was just laying in the carb, only held in by the plastic diffuser piece (apparently I put it in, but totally forgot to screw it down). So, a couple of you guys were right on, too much fuel basically just drowned the spark on that cylinder. Thanks for the help, and hopefully this will help others with similar issues.

Yea, good idea, I'll pull the plug and see if I can see any spark, that is a good place to start. I just figured none since there isn't combustion. I'll also check the pilot jet, that is a good idea. I'm pretty sure that they are both 25's.

Fuel is getting to the left cylinder fine, I will double check that the slides are in correctly, I know that they can be switched accidentally, but can only be installed one way, even if switched. As for tors, the switch at the throttle is gone, as are the plugs, but only 1 or 2 of the wires from the connectors were fused together, I wondered if that could be the problem? I am going to look at the wiring first, then will try to swap out the CDI. I already swapped the coil, and replaced the stator, so I know those aren't the issue. What about the small box next to the CDI, is that the rectifier? Can it cause any issues with spark? The bike fires on the first kick, and idles fine, but you can't see any smoke from the left, pipe never gets warm, and when you accelerate, there is no power (running on one cylinder). I appreciate any ideas...

Top end was just redone, but the problem existed before, sporadically. We looked over the wiring while we had the top end apart, and noticed that at least one of the TORS wiring, was cut but not joined together. Both should be twisted together, correct? We have no TORS, and no break switch (that should just be disconnected and open, correct?). We started it tonight for the first time since the rebuild, and it was firing on both sides for about 20 seconds, and from then on couldn't get any firing on the left side. It idled fine, but eventually gas started dripping out of the head on the left side (I guess it was getting plenty of fuel, and obviously not burning it). Switched the plug cables, tried new plugs, etc., and no matter what, the left side would never fire (pipe never even warmed up). Thanks for any help, you can provide....

I have the same problem, switched the plug wires from left to right, and the same thing.... wondering if it could be the CDI? Any ideas?

I have a black axle carrier with a zerk fitting, in good shape, $25 shipped.

Is this the grab bar that you are selling: Click here If so, let me know how much you will sell it for, shipped to Oregon... are you taking paypal? Thanks, Dean

This question is similar, but slightly different, does anyone know if the std. Twist Throttle cable that elliminates TORS, will work on the stock Thumb throttle? I have twist throttle (without TORS) now and want to go back to Thumb, and just curious if I can just swap the twist with the thumb and keep the new twist cable I currently have, or if I need to get a thumb cable without TORS? Thanks, Dean

I'm still interested in this thrumb throttle, do you take paypal? Thanks, Dean

Thanks... anyone else?

Yes, stock carbs, but I don't have TORS, so with or without caps is fine. If you don't have caps and adjusters, I have them with my twist throttle. If you could post pics of the thumb throttle, or email it to dean@vdubn.com, that would be great. Also, do you guys take paypal? I don't mind if I need to piece it together, I just need to make sure I get the right pieces.

What kind of shape is it in, what year bike did it come off of? You have a pic?

I have a complete twist throttle setup that is basically brand new, but I want to go back to a Thumb throttle for now. Anyone have one in good shape that they would sell, preferrably with the cable that eliminates the TORS? Thanks, Dean

Bought a set of Works shocks off of him, sent the stuff immediately, and I had the stuff in my hands the same week. Excellent seller!

I was thinking exactly what the other gentleman mentioned above.... did you hold the throttle wide open while checking the compression? It makes a significant difference.