GleasmJA

No one has any input about this!!!! You all just run kehin carbs because that's the cool thing to do??

What are the pro's and con's of running one versus the other?? I see that most everyone is running keihin carbs, and was wondering what the big diffrence is?? Why aren't there some mikuni carbs mixed in the bunch? I'm going to upgrade here soon and have been looking at prices on egay and can pick up a pair of keihins for around $300, compared to Mikunis for less then $100. So why aren't there more mikuni carbs being run?? Thanks for the information.

Stock port, stock bore cylinders. $150shipped. Ive had a few people interested but no buyers yet. These are in great condition, come with water jacket plugs. I would suggest a bore to your specific piston just because I am unaware of the history. Consider these sold..... money sent

PM sent....

PM... sent.

Can i get pics of the rear rims to [email protected] PM... sent also

I knew I was forgetting something when I posted. Elevation is sea level, i live in FL. And temps are average of say 75. Iknow the single carb is a choke point, but can afford the new ones yet. Thanks for the help.

I'm getting ready to finish my upgrade to 4mil long rod and need a starting point please. Here's my upgrades: t-5's mild mx porting single 35 pwk intake with pod filter adjustable timing thanks for the help.

Any one know of a respectable machine shop in the Jax, FL area. Just need bore work done.

For all you guys that have money burning a hole in your pocket!!! Clicky Here

If you really want it to stand out.... get ride of all the pot marks and casting lines making it smooth... Then polish it. I did all the polishing on my bike by hand. Started with a grinder with sand paper wheel.. 200 grit... 800 grit.. then 1200 grit. After all the i polished on a cotton wheel with rough polish then fine polish. It took a while but looks great.

I think a good 50/50 mix, or close to it, looks the best. Say powder on the cases and jugs... polish the rest. But that is my opinion. And i haven't got that far yet. Waiting for the time that i have to go back into the motor to do that..

i had this happen to me once also. They only stole one side, and just the actual silencer on mine. I could never figure out why just one?? But i ordered a new one from Toomey for like $75 bucks for the silencer. Just a heads up for you. Yeah.. I just looked. The silencer is $75 and the stinger pipe is $25.

A heads up for you guys... a honda oil cover fits in there too. You just have to keep the stock one to check oil levels. I did that for quite a while till i bought a billet one.

I'm moving to Jax, FL in October. I've lived there before, but i didn't have my shee down there. And where i use to go play with the truck, no longer exists!! So i will have my shee this time, but no where to ride. Just trying to get ideas where to go. Thanks guys.

I can't tell if it helped alone... i did carbs, the head, fly wheel and freshened everything up all at the same time. But it won't hurt anything. Just check your compression and see how high it is.... anything real high and you may have to run some race gas mixed.

i got my head shaved a while back from a member on here. He went 20 thou and i still run pump gas, premium but who doesn't. That with timing advance and haven't had a problem with it yet.

thanks for the reply... i don't know why i didn't think of that when i posted. I knew that but some reason didn't sink in. Must have brain farted while i was typing that.

http://webforce.nwrain.com/founder/cascade...ore_dept_id=417 I have this bumper and love it to death. Best thing about it is i didn't pay for it. Got it off a shee i bought, fixed it up and sold it. But took the bumper and cool head off before i sold it.

I'm reading through this and now have a question. So can you get a 4mil long rod in stock cylinders??

I have a set of older laegers that i would sell. You would need to find some ball joints for them, they are in working order, but i would replace them personally. Pm me if interested

Sorry to hear the luck. But you got it figured out, and on the right path to fix it. Good luck. And any questions someone will help you here.

Yeah.... more details please. If it isn't to far i might be down for this this weekend,, or too cold either. But i have warm cloths for that.

If i'm not mistaken, the top bolt is an allen head that goes all the way through. And the bottom bolt is hex head on the inside, but you don't need to remove that one. If you get the top one out, it slides off the bottom bolt/pin. It's been a while for me having that apart. But it was a pain to get it apart. But keep at it and it will come apart. Good luck.

With your back brakes. Make sure that it is free one the pins. The ones that it slides on. If it has seized up with the old pads, being that they were probably worn out it why it is off alignment. If it doesn't move side to side, that is the problem there. Didn't read close enough to comment on your front brakes. Hop this helps.