JerzOutlaw350
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Posts posted by JerzOutlaw350
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Please disregard this wanted post. I found a donor banshee and I will probably have a ton of parts for sale. So I will post an update in a couple of days with a list everything that’s for sale.
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When you had the 30 pilots in did you ever try it with the air box lid on ? What type of riding conditions are you riding in that requires the air box lid ?
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The picture of the J-arm spindle / knuckle that you posted “ IS “ for the model year 87-89 which requires part # 1UY-23501-01-00 Left Side & 1UY-23502-01-00 Right Side. Then for the A-arm spindle / knuckle for the model year 90-06 which requires part # 3GD-23501-10-00 Left Side & 3GD-23502-10-00 Right Side. Here is a picture of what the spindle / knuckle looks like for the 90-06 Banshee. The picture that I posted is from a 1997 Banshee that Im currently working on for a friend. If you look the picture that you posted and compare it to the picture that I posted you can definitely see the difference between the spindles. I also circled the caliper bracket bolts in my picture to show how the spacing is different from the 87-89 Banshee in your photo and the 90-06 Banshee that is in the photo that I posted.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk-
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Check with either one of them. They may have what you are looking for. https://westcoastatvparts.com/
https://redo-parts.com/-
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I don’t know what kind of budget you have for buying a set of nerf bars but, I will tell you that there’s no difference between the Alba Racing standard nerf bars and the Tusk comp series nerf bars other than the price. They both work fine with the stock Banshee heel guards. I currently have the Tusk comp series nerf bars in black with the black nets and I have my stock heel guards removed. The nerf bars have been on my Banshee for 5 years now and they still look like the day that I put them on. Just a side note If you do decide to purchase either the Alba or Tusk nerf bars I would highly recommend upgrading the hardware kit that they include with the nerf bars. I’m going to be honest and say that I don’t know anything about the brand of nerf bars that Motorsport.com sells. As for the XFR brand of nerf bars there’s a guy that is in the group that I ride with who just recently bought the XFR pro peg ll with XFR heel guards and they look really nice and are built really well. I don’t know if anyone here has XFR nerf bars and noticed but, I did noticed with the XFR nerf bars with the heel guards is that if you are running a 22” rear tire there’s a slight chance that the tires might rub against the heel guards. So if you’re running a 20” rear tire then you will be fine. If I had to choose all over again on buying a set of nerf bars for my Banshee I’d buy the XFR’s without a doubt. So I hope that I some what answered your question. Good luck with whatever brand of nerf bars you decide to purchase.
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I personally like and currently use Kenda Klaw XCR 6 ply front (20x7-10) & rear (20x11-9) tires and they work excellent in all types of terrain that I ride in. As an added benefit the rear tires can be used in 2 different directions. One direction for soft surface and the other direction for hard surface. When it comes time to replace these I’ll be purchasing another set in the future.
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@reggiexp If you have a true Pro Design Air Filter adapter plate and not a cheap Chinese knockoff or a Vito’s Performance adapter plate is that the Pro Design air filter adapter plates are marked with either “K&N filter Only” or “Foam filter Only”. So if you have an adapter plate for a K&N filter then only a K&N filter # (YA-3502) will fit that adapter plate. If you had the adapter plate for the Foam Filter then you would need the Pro Design Foam Filter # (PD-207). I personally use the Pro Design Pro Flow Kit with the K&N Filter with a Outerwear # 20-1005-01 and I ride in extremely dusty and sandy conditions and I don’t have any problems with the Pro Design setup whatsoever.
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@Qliphoth Yes, I do know what I am talking about. I’ve been along time member of this site since 1998 just have a different screen name now. Yes, I do know the difference between Chinese knock off junk carburetors and Genuine OEM carburetors and I also know about the ones that are being sold by Amazon and sold on eBay. When I had the little glass window that’s on the side of my right side carburetor fall out I shopped around and even went to the parts department at my local dealership and they brought out 2 Genuine OEM Yamaha Carburetors and they were only the carburetors and they DID NOT include the TORS unit / switch assemblies because they were sold separately. Also @QliphothYOU MIGHT WANT TO TAKE YOUR OWN ADVICE AND NOT SAY ANYTHING IF YOU HAVE A CLUE!!
Like @hoppedupandcutdown said Yamaha still sells OEM carburetors and they DO NOT include the TORS units/switch assemblies.
@banshee4L You can purchase Genuine OEM carburetors from either Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.com or Motorsport.com
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Yes, according to the parts # on the boxes they are Genuine OEM Yamaha Banshee Carburetors. The price for the pair is pretty cheap. When I had a problem with one of my OEM carburetor the local Yamaha dealership wanted roughly $305.00 per carburetor and for that price I went and bought a pair of genuine Keihin 28mm Pwk’s and saved myself about $150-$200 over the OEM carburetors. I mean if you’re building a completely stock Banshee then get the OEM carburetors. But on other hand just buy a pair of keihin carburetors because they are easier to tune for jetting and you get better throttle response with them.
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You need to avoid buying cheap Chinese knockoff PW’s carbs at all cost and “ONLY BUY” genuine keihin 28mm PWK’s carbs. Check with any of the sponsors on the site here for them.
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According to their website they have a email address and a phone number to contact them. It also says that they are located in St. Paul, MN 55106. They also have a customer service live chat on their website as well.
What is your budget for buying a Banshee?
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ISO Stock Banshee A-arm Frame. I’m looking for a clean straight frame for my neighbors banshee. The frame must have clean threads, mounting surface and all mounting brackets, but It’s ok if the brackets for the foot guards are cut off. VIN’s don’t matter I can cut his VIN’s off and have them welded over the exchange frames VIN’s. His 1992 Banshee frame has a spot that rotted from the inside of the frame and worked it way out that which caused it to break and has caused it to come to the end of its life and cannot be repaired. The frame is rotted all around the right foot peg area. So if anyone has or knows someone selling one please let me know.
Thanks
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The reason why asked about the carbs is because there are a lot of fake Chinese made carbs being sold on market these days especially on eBay, Amazon and Vito’s Performance. I had the right side carb go bad (little glass window that you use to sync the carbs fell out) on my 04 banshee and what they wanted to replace both carbs I went and bought 2 brand new keihin 28mm pwk’s instead. If you do a leak down test that would tell if the crank seals are shot. Go on YouTube and look up SouthTexasBanshee he has plenty of useful videos that are very helpful with plenty of information. You also might want to check the vent on the fuel cap.
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Where did the Brand New OEM carburetors come from?
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You are better off with the aftermarket chain slider. The oem setup is prone to failure.
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I would say buy the oem Yamaha fuel shut off valve unless you’re planning to do some major engine / carburetor upgrades later down the road then I would recommend purchasing the dual pingle shut off valve. The rebuild kits are pretty much a universal rebuild kit. When my fuel shut off valve went bad I just replaced it with the oem Yamaha one. It’s all up to you on what you want to purchase. Good luck!!
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Yes, any and all bearings have to be removed. ie( front hubs, rear bearing carrier, swing arm and steering stem )
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You might want to post a thread of this question over in the Drag forum.
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Currently on my Banshee I’m running the 21x7-10 and 20x11-9 6 ply Kenda Klaw XC. I like them a lot because they have excellent traction in all types of terrain that I ride in and the added bonus is with the rear tires because you can run them in 2 different directions. One direction is for soft terrain then the other direction is for a medium to hard terrain. As for my wheels I’m using my oem black wheels that I had powder coated semi gloss black.
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No problem! I don’t know if you have one or if any of your buddies have one but you might want to hit up your local dealership and invest in a ratio rite cup. That will help with mixing the 2 stroke oil and gas together accurately. You also have to look for a good grade of 93 octane gasoline or even look for a place in your area that sells E-free gasoline. E-free gasoline is ethanol free and at some places they sell it in 91-97 octane. In my area there is 2 places that sell it and one sells 95 octane and the other place sells 97 octane. If you have anymore questions don’t hesitate to put a post up on the site here and someone here will help you out.
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To be honest anything that VP Racing make is a great product but there’s many different brands of 2 stroke pre mix oil on the market that are also very good as well. There must be a specific reason why the previous owner used VP’s brand over the other brands. So If you need to buy the VP’s Racing brand of 2 stroke oil online then that’s really not a big deal. A lot of people on the site here have there preference on what they run and like very much and most will tell you to try either Klotz R-50 or Klotz Super Techniplate, Klotz Benol, Maxima Castor 927 or Blendzall Green Label and the list is endless. I myself personally prefer Motul 800 2t off road. I been using it since my Banshee was brand new in 2004. I mix it at 50:1 because if I do it at 32:1 then I get the black drool coming out the end of my silencers. If Motul was to discontinue the brand I use I would switch to either Klotz R-50 or Klotz Super Techniplate or even Blendzall’s green label. The group that I ride with they all use Klotz as their choice of 2 stroke oil. So just stop pussy footing around a get out and ride the hell out of the damn thing and enjoy it !!!!!!
Good Luck and Ride Safe !!!
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I showed my neighbor the pictures of this Banshee on my iPad because he is a retired old school Yamaha mechanic with 30 years of experience. He said that all the plastics that are on this Banshee are the original factory plastics. He also said the plastics that were made in 87 - 92 were made way better than the plastics from 1993 and up that were cheaply made. He also said that 1987- 1992 had warning stickers and the 1993 and up came with riveted on warning labels. He wanted me to say that this thing is the perfect candidate for a full restoration and said don’t cut any corners buy doing a cheap restoration job and that this machine deserves the best quality parts available.
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Welcome to BansheeHQ! There is plenty of members here that can help answer any of your questions or help with any problems that arise. From reading your post it sounds like you might of found yourself a great deal. I have a couple of questions to help you get some of the answers you are looking for. I hope that you got to start it up and got to ride it before you bought it. The next thing you need to consider is how long was this Banshee stored without it being started? I’m just curious because if it sat too long the gaskets and seals will dry out and start to leak which will lead to a catastrophic failure. I would highly recommend that you consider doing a compression test and a leak down test asap. I would also highly recommend going completely over the Banshee before considering taking it out riding. My question is what brand of 2 stroke pre mix oil did the previous owner give you? How old is the content in the bottle and is the bottle still factory sealed?
Good Luck!!
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I have stock kickstarter and I also have size 13 feet and only kick it over while wearing work boots or riding boots. My Compression is 145 psi I also don’t have heal guards but I do have full rear fenders and my calf doesn’t come into contact with the rear fender while kicking it over.
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Banshee air leak
in BansheeHQ Gear
Posted · Edited by JerzOutlaw350
The most common spot are the cylinder base gaskets, reed gaskets, carburetor boots, or the crank seals. If your Banshee starts up and idles then you can check the top end with just a can of starting fluid and spray around the cylinder base gaskets, around the reed gaskets and carburetor boots. The starting fluid will find the leak in those areas and with the engine idling it will let you know where the leak is. For the crank seals you will need to do a leak down test. You can go to YouTube South Texas Banshee and look for Banshee leak down test or you can contact him at SouthTexasBanshee.com he sells a leak down test kit or you can build your own with a few items that can be purchased at your local hardware store, Home Depot or Lowes.