Banshee802

Yes, I’ve found out that the upper spindles have been bored to an oversized ball joint. I’m getting new spindles tomorrow. Hopefully that solves my issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am?!? Spacer should go in between knuckle and nut? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks that would be great Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So you just stack a bunch of washers on each other?? The thing is this is the second frame and set of aarms I’ve had, the only thing that stayed the same was the knuckle and hub. But the wheel still has negative camber compared to other side Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone use these? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When I first picked up my banshee it looked pretty much like that. I paid some crack head $420, but mine came with Toomeys and cylinders. I ended up traveling all over nearby states buying totes of parts trying to piece my motor together. Hq forum members hooked me up too. Had the cylinders redone and sold all the extra parts I didn’t need and came out with a running banshee for around $1100. Good luck with your build! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alright I got some issues like always. Trying to mount up these new aarms but shits not lining up. Almost as if there isnt enough threads on the heim joint itself. The nut is all the way up but I can still move the arm separate from knuckle. Also wheel on left side always has had negative camber. Could this be bad spindle? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wasn’t planning on running it until those are fixed. Personally I’m not going to send the motor out, I like to do my own work. Do you think the trade was worth it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How do I tell if it does? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah most likely[emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have to make a bigger leak down tester. Would I use a block off plate for power valves? I can already tell it has more compression than my stock cylinder banshee. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Leaking coolant from somewhere. Leaking oil from clutch cover. Where the see-through cover is. Not sure if there’s suppose to be a gasket but someone rtv’d the shit out of it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

supposed list of everything done. Not sure what I want to do with it right now. I do plan on cleaning it up a bit. Yeah not a fan of those front shocks. Look cool, but have heard bad reviews Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I swapped kickstarters from the one i traded. The one originally on this was junk. Just haven’t put mine back on. I believe they are temp sensors Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sweet. Just by looking at it do you know some of the parts? I know it has chariot intakes, vforce 3 reeds, shearer custom pipes, lectron carbs(they have a 40 stamped on them, 40mm?) not sure what kind of bowls are on there. Runs and drives, leaks fluids and clutch doesn’t work though. Traded it for a pretty much all stock banshee, besides t6 pipes. Figured I could always part it out in the end Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Like 4th. First ever big bore though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Ok so picked up a new banshee. It’s supposedly a 73mm cheetah with a 10mil crank. Has 40mm Lectron carbs, chariot intakes, and lockup clutch. How can I tell what brand cylinders I have? They have pv. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quite certain they are +2+1 lone star aarms. Going to have to be rebuilt and they have rust. I quickly took steel wool to one side and they cleaned up pretty good. Shoot me a price. I’m looking for +2+1 stock travel aarms either chrome or candy red. Want them to come with tie rods and brake lines for around $500. If any sponsor wants to hook me up I’m PayPal ready. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was doing some 3rd gear wheelies, came down hard, and the ball joint threaded part sheared off flush with aarm end. It only rolled once. Might just opt to get new aarms and tie rods altogether. Ball joints alone are expensive, plus everything else on my current setup is quite worn. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Whelp.... it was running great. Thought about replacing the ball joints, but they were too expensive. Guess I have to get some now. [emoji52] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I’m glad too. Fixed it all up today. Ended up being a clogged pilot jet on the choke carb. Made sense because it would kick on once I pulled the choke. Headlight was just loose wires. Gave them a jiggle and bam headlight got brighter. Happy it was all the easy crap. Thing freakin eats now[emoji23]

Thanks to everyone helping with this. Put some sealant on mounting bolts, retorqued and it past test with flying colors[emoji16]. Was able to start it today after sitting since February. Right pipe gets hot and left pipe stays cool. Runs really weird, plus left headlight is now dim. Feeling like a carb issue from sitting for so long or the powdercoat is messing with some grounds. But that’s for another day. I’ll take this as a win Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I remember right it was either 250 or 200 to sandblast, powdercoat, then clear coat it. I wouldn’t mind paying again for another frame since it’s quite durable. Accidentally dropped the motor and a case stud scraped the side of the frame. Sounded terrible, but it didn’t leave a scratch. Here’s the bike in its current state, little dirty: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Besides finishing up the intakes I just have to do some shining on the aarms and on my t6s. It won’t be a show piece by any means but I’ll be happy with it for now haha. Here’s how the silver vein came out: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk