BlackandYellowBanshee

Get them

Your motor will not increase in compression. It will decrease over time. 148 is good depending on what kind of motor work has been done. It sounds like you need to adjust your clutch or your friction plates are stuck to the metal plates in your clutch basket. This usually happens if the bike sits for a long long time tho. I would definitely re-adjust your clutch. Your clutch cable could also be stretched to the point that you are out of adjustment and need a new cable. Throttle being stiff could just be that the cable needs lubed or something is going on with your slides or your needle is gummed up. Did you check jetting? Let some of these guys who really know jetting what pipes you have, type and size of carbs, and type of air intake. Also elevation. Doing a leak down test would also be a great idea. Don’t get too frustrated. It doesn’t sound like the issues you have are too serious, but it will definitely help to know the motor is leak free. And the jetting. The clutch issues can be fixed no problem.

They do make lighter springs or you can cut yours. Iv heard of people grinding down the spring material to make the spring lighter. At that point you might as well buy springs for 5 bucks

I just went out to my garage and measured my lonestar +2’s. I measure 13.5 on the upper control arm from the middle of the bolt to where the lower ball joint screws in. I can reasonably guess stock size would then be 11.5 or so. If you measure closer to 11.5 you will know it’s stock. If you are measuring closer to 13.5 you will know it’s +2. Not sure if that helps or not.

Pictures of the a-arms and front shocks. The brake lines and brake line clamps are not included. Ball joints are new. Front end parts will not be available until I get my LT setup. I’m hoping this week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^^^Bingo

Clean up the carbs really well and then check what jetting is in it. Pilot jet may be off. Also check the pick up gap on the flywheel and make sure the flywheel and pickup coil are nice and clean.

Also... you are in the wrong thread.

You were threading the puller in reverse thread, correct? If you haven’t floated the ground... yes it will need to be done to charge the battery. Check the harness Near the boot for any splices. You should be able to tell because a stock stator will not have any splices in the wiring harness. I don’t know why anyone would do a dc conversion if they didn’t already have a battery, so I doubt it’s already been done. You may have to weld your puller to the flywheel to keep the puller in and pull it that way. Or use a jaw puller. Either way you get it off... you will need to buy a new flywheel.

Brand new... never used....All balls chain rollers and Modquad chain slider $45. Or $20 if you buy the swingarm. Will also include Modquad chain guide (10hrs on it)... chain guide not pictured. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rear shock valved 180-200lb rider for +4 swingarm. Has some wear from where sand hits it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Swingarm pics... small rub mark where chain slider rests. Bearings are all like new. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Man, I just looked in my clymers and I saw no key switch clearly marked “key switch” in the diagram. I can’t remember which colors I spliced to delete the key. If you have no TORS, I got this harness that is pretty simple to use. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Banshee-wiring-Harness-NEW-97-01-NO-TORS-NO-PARK-BRAKE-3GG-10/173154748549?hash=item2850d3c885:g:bfgAAOSwD4larYna its all about how much free time you have to rewire. Personally, I would just buy a new harness for your year. Delete tors if you haven’t already and really clean up excess wiring. I can’t remember who it was, but someone in this forum also makes harnesses if you want to show them some loyalty. I’m sure someone will chime in on who it is.

Pipes will benefit you greatly. A timing plate would be another good idea. Cool head is a good idea. I'd also invest in a dyno session and get your jetting spot on. You would be amazed by what kind of power that can be found with a properly tuned motor.

I vote the two piece, but the temp gauge is pretty cool. I feel like the temp gauge is just one more place that is vulnerable to leak. I could be wrong. I guess you could argue that the 2 piece has more orings and has a greater potential to leak. Just get one and send it. Im more impressed by the 36 items in your shopping cart.

I just went through this process. I had standard travel lonestar +2 and loved them so I figured on my LT setup, I would show them some loyalty. Plus for $780 for the DC Pros, I thought it was a good deal. If you have a little extra dough, have you looked into PEP? Iv never ridden on them, but I think the general consensus is that they make a good product. I picked up a set of their limited mass fronts for $1040 from SF racing. Great guy to work with. I know it takes you out of the $1000 ball club for the Elka legacy series, but it’s just another thought.

yea i figured 10 mm. I feel like I read somewhere that they offer both, but 10 mm should be fine for my type of riding. knock on wood..... im sure there is a stump sticking out of the sand somewhere with my name on it

Sorry. wasn't specific enough. I mean 10mm or 12mm ends.

Alight. So I am swapping out my entire suspension for long travel. I will have these parts available as soon as I receive everything. Selling to recoup some of the small fortune I spent on the new setup. Will probably be a few weeks, but thought I'd post ahead of time before someone spends all of their tax return somewhere else. Lonestar +2 A-arms with the caster washer adjustment feature. New ball joints. Comes with Tie rods- Gloss black. $440 Works front shocks Silver with black springs and billet reservoirs with clamps- No idea what they are valved for. I'm 190 and they felt fine,but Im not a pro rider to know the difference. $360 Rear +4 swingarm and stock carrier- gloss black. Grease zerk mod on the carrier. Very little time on bearings and seals (10hrs or so) $250 Rear Elka shock set up up for 180-200 lb rider for a +4 swingarm. $400 TAG handlebars Black $30 I'm a twice a year, weekend trip to oklahoma rider. These parts are in great condition and the powdercoat is close to, if not perfect. Front and Rear shocks don't have any leaks and very minor signs of use. My quad is at the shop in line to be dyno'd right now, but will get pictures as soon as I get it back. Shipping is additional. Ill work on price if you buy it all or maybe ill just eat the shipping. We will cross that bridge if that happens.

Getting a set of long travel a-arms. Just wondering what size tie rods they come with so I can order the correct tie rod ends. It doesn't say on their website.

Not odd at all. I think the sleeper look is sweet. I would have went that route but when I got my stock cover polished, the media egged out parts of the gasket surface. Huge bummer. At that point I figured, why not go with the direct drive? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like my direct drive but I’m also running a lock up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Appreciate your help!

Yea. I thought about scuffing it up a bit. I’ll definitely get on that. I was hoping that was the problem.

Anyone?