Jump to content

BlackandYellowBanshee

Members
  • Posts

    258
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by BlackandYellowBanshee

  1. Man... I thought the exact same thing. Thinking there would be a blind spot while turning.That little 10 in light puts out so much light that it isn’t an issue. Plus if you are riding in a group of 4 or so, everyone’s light fills in the dark spots. I didn’t want to go through the exact hassle that you are.. plus my buddies mount actually broke from having it mounted during the day while jumping. Not sure if the offset weight from mounting to the bars screwed him. Plus he’s running the twin row, which weighs more.I feel like if the way this light is mounted, it would have to break at the studs which I don’t see happening. Another friend of mine fabbed his own mount for his raptor. Once again... I like the jds because it’s brainless. Anyways, I’m sure you will get something to work out just fine. It’s all part of the fun making something work.
  2. Hopefully the 2 cabins are fixed by then. Whoever rented them out. Apparently they got trashed during the rattlesnake roundup. Had one rented this weekend for the Sand Outlawz event and they had to break the news to my group. We’ve still got an enclosed trailer with air but the shitter and shower being right there will be missed. I’ll take a look at how bad it is this weekend. One would assume it would be fixed by fall.
  3. Maybe someone with some full flight experience can answer. I swear they are the same.
  4. Well it’s not on the stem but the JL engineering light mounts work awesome. Goes in your stock light brackets and then you just buy longer studs for the light. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. In my opinion.... no. You get what you pay for. It’s up to you and your budget. It’s hard to vouge for an a arm that Iv never heard of.
  6. They look like full flights with a different name. Not sure if the picture is an exact representation of the product but the ball joints look like they are a lot to be desired.
  7. Sounds like you are getting on the right path. Is it still lunging forward when you kick it over? Or did the issue fix itself?
  8. Spacers would work which is a great idea, but I would have needed at least 1/2 inch of spacers to compensate for the extra slack. The OEM cable even fits better (not so much of the cable over hangs the case on the clutch cover side). The MP was even starting a little wear mark from the cable protector on my new DD cover. Nothing excessively bad but it’s crazy how that 1 inch cable difference can affect so many things. I won’t think twice about ordering oem again.
  9. Try adjusting your idle screws for your high idle. Your throttle cable may also need a little slack if it’s tugging your slides up slightly. As far as the clutch goes.... Take out slack on your perch on the clutch cable. If that doesn’t work, you will have to adjust at the basket or your cable is stretched. Push on the clutch actuator arm on the top of the case with your fingers. It should stop when the arrow on the arm meets the arrow on the case. When you have that adjustment... lock the nut adjuster screw and take out slack on the perch. You should have a little “free play” in your lever. It shouldn’t be so stiff that the clutch cable is completely tight through the entire clutch pull.
  10. Scratch the JB... it’s plastic... duh. The rivet idea would require some drilling to the size of the rivot and likelihood of it working is probably 50/50. Cheap, sturdy fix if it worked tho.
  11. This is super ghetto, but JB weld putty stuff? I mean it’s not really supporting a load. Problem is... if it doesn’t work, undoing it would not be fun. Maybe try a hex rivet? Not sure if the expanding of the rivet would damage the tank, but I think those tanks are made out of hdpe... pretty durable stuff. Good luck man
  12. Yea... I actually bought the oem one to have on the trailer and had a hunch that it would fix the problem. A lot of people claim the arrows are hard to get lined up. I had zero issues lining up using the OEM. The MP was impossible.
  13. That is your vent tube on the coolant reservoir. It should be the top hose and runs the length of your frame to the front. It runs like that to prevent spilling when wheeling or tipping. If it’s coming out of there, I’d guess your coolant was too full.
  14. So I had a brand new motion pro clutch cable. Very small amount of riding time on it. On my last dyno session, the mechanic said the clutch was too tight (no free play). I knew exactly what he was talking about. I fiddled around with the clutch adjustment. Went thru the arrow process... blah blah. I just couldn’t get it right without running out of adjustment on the perch. Got a brand new OEM cable. Side by side the oem cable is roughly an inch shorter than the motion pro. Went thru the adjustment for the 18th time and bingo. It’s perfect. Perfect amount of free play and plenty of perch adjustment left to accommodate for future cable stretch. I guess it’s possible the part number on the motion pro could have been wrong but that info is long gone. I just thought I’d throw this out there if someone is having similar issues in the future. Start with OEM and take the guessing game out of it.
  15. I’m in Omaha, NE. As far as type... I have no idea. I don’t see very many of the black and silver. They do come with resevoirs. I have mine mounted to the frame under the hood.
  16. Reservoirs are under the hood
  17. I have some works shocks for sale. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. On a second thought, I swear I remember the stock lines just being vacuum lines. I found some 7/32 which should do the trick. I’ll use this until someone tells me it’s not the right stuff.
  19. Need to know what kind of coolant hose to use for the overflow. Vacuum line is the only thing I can get to stretch over the barb on the radiator but Iv heard not to use vacuum line. 3/16th is what Iv been using. 1/4 in fuel line doesn’t have the bend radius I need.
  20. ^^they are the lonestar sport model
  21. Lonestar +2 A-arms 400 plus shipping. Gloss black. See pictures in my for sale section under entire suspension.
  22. Buddy gave me his banshee. Wouldn’t run. Fuel line from the petcock was running uphill over the boost bottle. Carbs weren’t getting fuel. Sold it for $1000 three days after he gave it to me. I wish I had more friends like him.
×
×
  • Create New...