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98_sheester

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Everything posted by 98_sheester

  1. Post pics first then order a clymer manual and then i would call a site sponsor tell em whats goin on and they will hook you up
  2. Yes get a clymers and slides are what control your throttle in the carbs and yes very easy to take out
  3. Take your carbs and clean them and your air filter/filters and make sure the slides are in correct
  4. If you pm me your number i can help ya But if you can kick the bike over with out the idle screws all the way in your gonna have to keep the throttle pressed a lil bit til you get each screw in about 3/4 of the way, (could die the first time) let off the throttle see if you get low idle (allow 15secs to let the adjustment take place) if it dies out go in another half turn on each screw, you should hear the idle getting higher a little at a time. After you get a decent high idle bout 3k rmp back it out 1/4 turns at a time on each one til it gets a smooth idle which should be about 1k to 1300 rpms. My idle screws have about 4 threads showing from the lock nut. Please let me know if this was helpful im not good at typing instructions lol
  5. Yeah it was the stock plate good thing i found that
  6. Thumb throttle sold
  7. You just have to play with your idle screw 1/4 turns at time on each one
  8. 18cc should be on race gas
  9. Check your carb slides
  10. Are the coming out while ride or you mean with a wrench
  11. Id put a 280 main and 27.5 pilot i would think but do a plug chop make sure
  12. I believe your right but thats the only kind i use so i guess i do forget that lol
  13. Use tapatalk to upload pics and get a cleaning solvant and clean the top of piston
  14. Me too thats why i said it that way lol ive yet tore into my bottom end but i know what parts are what and what they do but the clymer helps the most unmechanically inclined people
  15. I have a 400ex id trade ya for it hahahaha
  16. Yes buy one or download it....its a banshee guide for dummies to say the least very desripctive and pictures
  17. Man thats gonna be an extra 1500 wasted and however much more after they fuck it up just a personal opinion id do a site sponsor or yourself
  18. Do a leakdown test yes
  19. Yup sure do better change all the bottem end bearings while your there
  20. Thats prolly what happen spun a rod bearing so your crank seals are prolly gone too if it walk over any
  21. Well the rod has side to side play but should have no up n down play and your piston skirt prolly broke off
  22. Yup prolly let some coolant in there someway or another but im not 100 since i have stock head
  23. As sheerider said man youll be pissing up wind if you dont know why it melted down first..but you need to the leak down do some research you can make it 20 mins with about 60 bucks
  24. Quality is only a phone call away on here and tell em what you want pay for it and they will send it to you unless you send them your old parts to fix....say what!!
  25. This is what i found when changing out timing plates yesterday The bottom screw was holding the cracked piece on But after that the rest went together pretty good
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