Ayesully810

yeah they are pretty cost effective. Im not advocating he gets them lol I was just saying.

My only point was that some things aren't as bad as people make them out to be.

its funny everyone hates on fmfs just bc they aren't shearers, they still ride like a nice pipe in the trails. Also last I saw when I saw at driveline lane showed me a graph of a comparison between an fmf and slp pipes on their 392 stock stroke pump gasser. Fmfs came on just as strong as the slps up the face, but obviously slps peaked out at about 7 to 8 hp more iirc. Still not an awful choice for a play bike if you already have em and wanna save 600 bucks.

If the pipes are getting diff temps try checking your float level, I had that issue before where my float level was off and one pipe was heating up more than the other. Stock carbs? is the "choke side" the one with the plunger, the one that's lean?

my jetting is perfect too my air screws are at 1.25 turns out 37.5 pilot, 360 main, and 4th clip on vitos needle (same needle as Toomey basically)

wouldn't hurt to try lol I have 37.5s in my stock carbs on my 421 4 mil.

what does this mean? are you talking about the part where the idle screw goes in? you shaved that down as far as possibly so you can crank that screw in more, is that what you mean? also you said you turn the screws in and it helped. have you tried a 32.5 or 35 pilot?

This is just a project that I am going to sell when I am done. Roller should be all put together tomorrow and hopefully Friday I can get the motor all sealed up.

U can polish your own clutch cover it will just take some time pm me if u wanna know how or just look up in the threads Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk

tried texting you. glad u got it situated though

What are all your mods? if your bone stock with pipes a 290 main should be good. Stock pilot will be fine if your running your air box still.

Thanks. Yeah just rattle canned gloss black. Looks good actually. Budget restore, so rattle can it was. Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk

Half ass job on the clutch cover but the silencers turned out good. 400 grit 800 1000 then 1500. 00 steel whool then mothers. Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk

For this on craigslist for 1k. Guy told me the motor was fine except the top end and needed a bore. Open it up and found broken teeth on the clutch basket and idler gear. Also the countershaft was bent on the tranny. Came with lots of extra parts even though most of it was rusty af. Turning out halfway decent so far considering it was a pile of scrap when I picked it up. Plan on selling it when Im done. Just cleaned the cases the other day and replaced the bent countershaft. Just gotta finish this roller and put the motor back together. Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk

good idea. you can get a cut harness from Kory for like 40 bucks or so then get a cdi relocation bracket. Should be able to eliminate that rats nest for 60 bucks or so! lol

I was just being a smartass

I would like just the grill please and also just one of ur odi grips

I hate electrical. If it were me, I would seriously just eliminate everything except for what you need for the bike to run and just get a cut harness from Kory at Kompulsive concepts. That's what I did for mine, very minimal wiring and a relocated cdi. Almost no wires on the bike. But depends on weather you want all that stuff on ur bike or not. Id check your wire harness, see how everything looks

https://www.amazon.com/Danco-94352-Increment-Test-Gauge/dp/B00IPUCRXK/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503100918&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=danco+pressure+tester yeah ideally you want you motor to be able to hold 6 lbs of pressure for 6 mins with no more than 1 psi of pressure lost over that 6 min period if it does leak a little bit. That's the gauge I used for mine. wrapped with Teflon on the threads and got a male to female slip pvc coupler then plugged the other intake with 1 inch pvc cap. Then got plugs for the exhaust. Cost me like 25 bucks to make. Also the only thing you can check by taking the stator cover off is checking the pick up coil gap. get some feel gauges they r cheap.

did you pressure test your motor after you rebuilt it? that's how you would rule out an air leak. if you have an ohm meter you can test your stator and coil to make sure they are functioning within spec.

well I WOULD like a set. wasn't jared making a full bore knock off? I remember a thread about it, maybe it wasn't jared but someone was, I would buy one of those lol

yeah I don't even have a regulator and I only use 2 bolts to hold my gas tank on so I just gotta remove the 1 bolt that holds the bracket down on the gas tank and unplug it

LOL great idea, my cdi is behind the gas tank and super easy to move. Im gunna start doing that

update.. apparently this issue is NOT resolved. This thing will still not start (this is my friends bike) pressure test passed all electrical components in the clear vf2s, 140ish psi ,fmfs ,aggressive trail port, pods - 32.5s still wont start it. If I put a little gas in the spark plug holes it fires right up and idles fine. The air screw is at HALF turn out from seated, any higher than that and I get lean idle hang. I know half turn and 2.5 is the ideal number, carl I know you said don't get hung up on the numbers but my 4 mil 421 with stockers has a 37.5 pilot idk why this aggressive trial port stock stroke would need the same. thoughts? or just keep upping the pilot

Looking for 3 all black shock covers 2 for front shocks and 1 for the back thanks! paypal ready, txt me a pic if u got em 2482147918