arena314

And I didn't post about my crank did I? No I asked for your guys opinion on how to de carbonize the head on my quad

Look I don't have the time to let my bike sit for months I don't have all the time in the world and I have to have my bike ready and broken in by the end of next month. I work so I don't have alot of time in my day to work on my bike. I'm sure it'll be fine for the time being with porting. All I want to do is a top end rebuild there's no reason for me to think my crank is bad

Look I know what I should do but like you said the crank might do fine it might not you never know. I know a crank in a car is a bit different but my buddy had a gto with 25k miles stock crank pushed 10 pounds of boost through and had a 700 horse car and it was like that for over a year before he crashed it it was still going strong. The crank in my mustang has 186k on it with heads cams and lots of bolt ons it has atleast 80 more hp then stock and it does fine.

Yeah true but I'm not adding power to it that it can't handle on a stock crank. And wouldn't you know if it had a bad bearing? It would have play

I just simply asked how to go about cleaning carbon and debris and all the sudden you guys come at me with all this shit

Why would it take a shit? The crank is fine. It was fine before the tear down and its fine now that I'm inside the motor theres nothing wrong with it. I don't understand why you guys think I need a crank when thats not the reason it needed to be rebuilt anyway. It's just a top end rebuild. Never heard anyone say when your top end needs to be rebuilt then you also need to do a crank

The metal isn't from the crank its from when i was taking off the jug on the left side I had to move it back of forth alot to get it off the studs. The metal is from the studs. And it had low compression due to worn rings

Yeah but I'm not tearing it down the the crank this time im only doing a top end on it then next rebuild im going to do it all

My problem ended up being horribly low compression lol. Started the tear down I'm going to do a port and polished 380 probably for now

Ok so I had horribly low compression in both cylinders on my 03. Both read under 100 psi so I decided its time for a tear down. I was never inside this banshee before so it was all new to me. Nothing unusual and everything came off pretty easy. Bone stock porting and bore it even looked like stock pistons to me. The rings were completely worn I'm surprised the bike still ran I'm going to send my cylinders out and have them bored ported and polished and throw some wiseco pistons in. My questions are what's the best way to clean the carbon off the domes? I'm keeping the stock head on it for now due to having other things to fix and have to keep the cost down a little. So what's the best way to clean the carbon off the stock head and also when removing the jugs some metal shavings came off and are laying on the case around where the fuel shoots up through the crank case into the cylinders what's the best way to clean that and how bad would it be if just a few of those shavings fell into the crank case? Lmk and sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance

I moved the clip up 1 position and put the screws out 1.5 turns still has a bog out of idle and doesn't want to idle perfectly it almost has a sputter at idle but the carbs are synced. I think the pilots are to big

Ok so should I just go down a size in my pilots or should I try adjusting the needle first?

Ok I'll go down to a 27.5. What about the needle?

So if I want to lean it out to I move the clip up or down?

I have an 03 Banshee with stock internals and bolt ons. I have dmc headers with fmf powercore silencers open air box with uni filter vforce 4 reeds bost bottle and that's it for motor mods. I have 290 mains and 30 pilots in the carbs with the needle in the 3rd position. The bike runs pretty good the only issue is it bogs alot starting out in 1st but is good otherwise. What really bothers me is that the bike fouls plugs all the time. Every few hours of riding I have to put new plugs in. The plugs looks rich when I pull them out so what's going on? Should I put the clip on a different position or swith the mains? Or could it be the pilot. Thanks for any replies

As long as I can run the normal 50/50 I'll just do that

So i can run the same green 50/50 coolant in it that I run in my car? Bc the coolant in it now is blue

And also I'm a little low on coolant and I'm going to just do a coolant flush. What kind of coolant do you recommend for the banshee and for a yfz450 might as well do both

Really? It idles and hits powerband amazingly the power is definitely there compared the the other shee's I've owned

Runs and idles great the only thing is at first start off it bogs just a little. That would be the pilot adjustment right? It's not a big deal but it would be nice to get it right

Did plugs yesterday. Slides were on backwards so I switched them and now it's perfect idles and runs strong!

The only reason why I dint think it's definitely a leak is because of the fact that it runs good sometimes

Well I'm going to check my slides in the morning and tighten Down all my clamps and if it still fucks up I'll run a leak down. I have vforce4 reeds fmf pipes uni air filter and no air box lid I ran a 300 main and 30 pilot

If it was a leak wouldn't it idle high the whole time?

I was thinking that but I can get it to idle normally. I was riding it around and it would idle Down and idle all day then it randomly started doing it. It would ride fine but after 20 or so minutes of riding it happened.