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arena314

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Everything posted by arena314

  1. So I decided to bite the bullet and take it to the next level on my 4 mil banshee. Currently have stock carbs 4 mil crank stock cylinders with a macdaddy trail port. I just ordered some pwk 35 airstrikers, driveline assasin 421 kit and some 23cc big bore domes for my coolhead. I will be running toomey t5 pipes for now, +4 timing vforce 4 reeds and a k&n with an open airbox. What jetting do you guys think I should start with on my new pwk air strikers on this new setup? I'm about 50-600 feet in elevation where I ride and plan on running pump gas 93 octane what do you all think? Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  2. The cylinders are standard 64mm bore with some porting done nothing crazy. I'm regretting not going more wild with the porting and boring it out a little as well but I had reliability in mind when I was building it that's why I did what I did, bike rips hard as hell I just want to wake it up a bit. Why do you think I'm better off leaving carbs stock you don't think I'd have anything to gain with a nice set? I'm already at a 390 main I can probably go a bit leaner on it but it runs good where it's at Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  3. Hey all about 2 summers back I snapped the crank snout on the stator side of my banshee crank off trying to replace the stator due to it being cross threaded on so it now has the following. T5 pipes -Open air box with k&n filter -Stock carbs jetted and tuned properly tors deleted -new vforve 4 reeds -Driveline performance 4 mil crank with 115 mm rods -Stock bore wiseco 795 pistons -Macdaddy trail port on stock Jugs with port timing adjusted for the crank -pro design coolhead (I don't remember what domes but they are for 93 octane) -brand new oem stator and flywheel with +4 timing set Shift mods, billet clutch basket, driveline drag clutch, billet water pump gear and impeller it has the works. It runs amazing and rips but I'm itching to do a little more. I wish I had gone with a better port job but due to the whole motor only having 18 hours on it I'm unwilling to pull the jugs off to get it done although I definitely will next topend. I'm thinking of running some t2 in it for more octane which will allow me to put smaller domes in the head and maybe add some more timing. If I ran t2 110 octane in it how much timing could I add and what size domes can I go down to? I'm about 50-700 feet above sea level with all the places i ride so pretty close to sea level. Also I feel like the stock carbs are limiting what I can do with it so I was thinking about putting some 35 mm pwk's on it do you think it would respond well? I'd love to remove the airbox all together but where I ride in Pennsylvania I'm not sure it's much of an option. Thanks for Any responses Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
  4. the basket was replaced maybe 20 hours ago or so with a billet driveline basket im sure that'll be good but I didn't replace the pressure plate what should I watch out for when I pull it apart Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  5. ok so I will probably just go with the same clutch but with all heavy springs instead of half and half and see how it goes. Do you think the slipping can be caused by something else like maybe the pressure plate or improper adjustment or something? The clutch seemed to have good life left before going back together and 13 hours later its slipping Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  6. I ordered a new clutch I got the same one again. you think just the 3 springs will make that big a difference? Will a lock up damage the factory trans? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  7. Hey all so my banshee has been back together since about June and I've put a solid 13 hours on it. I was up in Vermont last week riding some streets and fields so I was doing plenty of pulls and high speed runs and it runs awesome but towards the end of the trip something started to feel a little off. Everything feels fine starting off but it seems to get into powerband very quickly and scream through but doesn't feel like all the power is being put to the ground. I thought maybe its the wheels spinning but I was looking behind me I don't think thats the case it almost seems to me like the clutch is starting to slip at wot and I feel it more in the lower gears. Could it be that I need more clutch? I put a driveline drag clutch and billet clutch basket with 3 oem springs and 3 stiffer spring in like 2 seasons ago so I didn't replace it during the rebuild but wondering if the extra power is a little to much for it? I have a driveline 4 mil in it with ported stock cylinders a pro design coolhead open airbox with k&n vforce reeds t5 pipes +4 timing and some shifting mods with a stock trany. Think its time for a lock up? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  8. hey all, I have a banshee the engine is stock is has t5's uni filter with lid (I ride in dirty locations) +4 timing and im running it on pump 93. I will be adding reeds and a coolhead with 21cc domes to get a little more. I know I could cut the stock head but I plan on doing something different with it later on after its ready for a rebuild. Im running a 27.5 pilot and a 270 main and it runs good doesnt foul plugs ever or anything. Im between 50-500 ft of elevation i suppose depending on where I ride. I was thinking of putting a 300 main in it and go from there after adding these upgrades? What do you guys think Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  9. Any advice anyone? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  10. hey guys.. so due to an extremely busy summer I havent been able to get my bikes out for any good riding. pulled the banshee out on the 4th of July just to see if she was still running good. idles and revs great but wasnt hitting the band it would kinda just break up so I though its probably time to go through the carbs again since it's been sitting. after cleaning the carbs it ran great put it back and then once again it sat till this weekend. took it out and it ran good then I pulled the seat off and remembered I pulled the filter off to clean it and didnt put it back in yet I only rode it up the street so it should hopefully be fine. well I tried riding it and it was breaking up again. I decided to spray out the carbs again but instead of fully pulling them out I just kinda tipped them to the side pulled the bowls off and sprayed them out. I did see I bit of little black speckles at the bottom of the bowls in the fuel. after doing a quick spray I realized it fixed nothing it's still breaking up kinda in the mid rpm then it tries clearing out at high rpm but doesnt. I tested the stator and got 9.8 ohms on the ignition coil and 123 ohms on the pickup coil. the 9.8 ohms on the ignition coil seems a little out of spec to me but could this he causing this type of issue? or do you think I should completely disassemble the carbs and clean them right? thanks guys lmk. banshees dont like sitting lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  11. I'd for sure put the right jet in it. could be stock 25 for all you know. 27.5 might do it depending on elevation Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  12. my guess would be clogged pilot. pull carbs apart and do a good cleaning. if that doesnt fix it check for air leaks Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  13. what mods do you have? elevation? did you make any changes to the quad while it was sitting in the cold months or did it just start running like this after sitting with no changes made to the bike? if you made no changes to the quad it's possible you have a dirty pilot jet. also make sure your engine is air tight and has good compression Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  14. I'm sure its gonna be very fast. I've had lots and lots of quads from 400's to many different 450's and quadzillas still currently have 2 450's and a trx250r and this is my 6th banshee. I'll say both my 450's (pretty stock ltr450 and high compression/ head work trx450r) are both pretty close with my banshee how it is now but once I throw this set up on I have a feeling it will feel a lot faster then any bike ive had or ridden Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  15. I'm assuming its gonna be a lot faster then it is now. was hoping for more then high 60's with the amount of money I'm dishing out lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  16. ok thank you. thanks for all the good info as I'm sure I'll be asking for more advice. what kind of power do you think my bike will make on this kinda set up on pump gas 23cc domes stock carbs and t5's Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  17. and should I start with the 37.5 pilot or 32.5 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  18. well I know that lol. I guess I'll start with a 360? I wanna make sure it's on the rich side atleast for the break in before I can dial it in and plug chop it Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  19. I currently have a 27.5 pilot and I believe a 260 main. its gonna be that big of a jump? what's your elevation Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  20. hey guys another question.. what main and pilot jets would be a good safe starting point? I know I have a lot of time before I even start the project but I guess why not ask now. if I had the 4 mil crank, assassin top end that I posted the link to in my first post, t5 pipes, uni filter in stock air box, stock reeds for now, and +4 timing on the stock mikuni carbs with 23cc domes on pump gas. my elevation ranges from about 40 ft to 900 ft depending on where I ride Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  21. ok cool so I'll make sure all bearing like water pump impeller bearing and all that move good before reassembling. obviously new crank bearings and seals Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  22. thank you I purchased the water pump gear already. all the bearings in the transmission should I check them all and make sure there all good or should I pack them with grease before I put them back in? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  23. anytime shopping on Ebay I make sure theres a brand I've heard of and is known for being good I just know that even "good" brands are better at making some products then others then I normally go to different sites looking at the same part to see who sells it for the lowest price. as far as the water pump going the stock impeller is good to run and just change the plastic gear to a billet correct? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  24. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Banshee-Modified-Shift-Star/142863467033?epid=1022894458&hash=item2143538219:g:R~sAAOSw7VRbRkY6 is this one okay? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  25. tors are removed I did that when I first got the quad and it has t5's on it which I think I'll run for the foreseeable future, stock reeds for now on and stock carbs also for the foreseeable future. most important stuff is the stuff you can only replace while your in the motor. where should I go to look for this shift star? any links you can send me Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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