fixitrod

Who's Trick Daddy?

Are you using a stock brand headgasket. I had trouble with head gaskets until I bought oem. They have a factory sealer on them. Have you moved the coolant bottle to the front yet? Maybe you're loosing it because of the location more than heat.

You should push the arrow toward the right while looking at it from the top and sitting on it. Just put a little tension on it when adjusting the pressure plate bolt. When your finished, the arrows should line up. The one on the case and the arm itself. Neutral is hard to find on any banshee it seems.... unless drag racing... lol. How does it shift otherwise?

Daaaammmmmmnnn!!!!

If they make that brand for the fzr 600 it will fit the banshee.

I have a dirt digger also. I went from motor oil to gear oil and to tranny oil and mine quit grabbing while in gear now. The dextron 3 did it for mine.

air leak

Your needle will effect the main also. If you lean out the needle you'll most likely need to richen the main to get the proper throttle response. They do work together. If you get a fat needle in there without much taper it will not let as much fuel flow even with it wide open. The needle is still in the way of the venturi when wot. Just something to think about when playing with different needles.

You have to remember though, a dyno may make you jet a little rich because of the resistance of the dyno. It's like going uphill.

I don't know of frame threads on the bottom. I thought there was just a bracket at the top and a nut that screwed on the steering stem at the bottom. If it in the frame, try a tap to clean it up. If it to messed up, just drill and to to the next size.

Man, I hope he wears a helmet now. How much can your head be worth. You can get a decent helmet for $150. Wow. He's lucky.

Just don't get heim joints for standard travel a-arms. I have the ricky stator a-arms and for $500 they have went through hell. If I mess one up, I'll be buying more ricky stators. They aren't fancy though. Plain grey when you get them. Maybe he does chrome too, I don't know. The quicksands look very good. Just stay away from heim joints. I will stand by that no matter what anyone says.

You might hear they fall off faster and that is true. I like it though. I can hammer on the gas into a corner and know my brakes will react better because the motor slows down faster. I've never noticed it stalls easier. I can pop a wheelie in first up to the balance point and walk it slow. If it stalled easier, that would be tough. It's more responsive so I can just touch the gas and it brings the front end back up when I need it to.

I ended up taking off my stock modified head for the stroker and had Dave at Noss make me some stroker domes. I increased my compression from 158psi to 185psi and had a different shape dome put in for a broader powerband. I haven't put the shee on the dyno since my head change, but it definately made a huge difference. I told Fixitrod about this and he bought a head for his stroker to. Fixed his problem and then some. Not to say thats your problem, my shee only fell on its face at that rpm, if I kept the rpms up, then I had no problem w/ response, but when I let the rpms back down and hit it. It'd fall on its face and piss me off...as you can see w/ my originally graph, I'm not used to dead spots.... A lot of times a lean needle will cause that hesitation before powerband like your saying. Have you tried raising the needles? Also, most high rev pipes or dune porting changes the port timing which will make your power move to the higher rpms causing that dip before the powerband since the port timing is no longer matching the pipe....increasing compression can help get the port timing back in play w/ the pipe. The increased compression accelerates combustion speed and will change the timing of everything....Its the one thing that a lot of builders don't compensate for which in turn should tell you something.... so if you ever want to see how much builder knows then ask him what he needs for info from you to build you a motor....he should be asking you what kind of fuel your running, compression you want to run, compression he suggest, riding style, what kind of pipes your running, carbs, timing, etc..It ALL plays a part. Sorry for the book... Don't forget we tightened the squish up to Banchetta. I had almost .060 and didn't know it until I measured it. Went to .035 by a calc that Jim at passion did for me. He was dead on.

Here's a couple things I'm thinking. His phone number should be included in the logo at the top. It makes it easier for the customer. I think there should be a mailto: at the bottom of every page. Just a small one. Also, were is your webmaster link so you can drum up a little business yourself? Oh, and another thing... just an opinion.... some of the colors are a little to crazy...lmao The site does look good and is easy to get around.

The most simple and user friendly firewall is a home router. They can be had from $25 and up. You can also download zone alarm for free. If you run a home network it can be a little finiky though... but does work.

Exactly, porting helps with any pipe,... even stock when done correctly.

NOSS head have excellent water flow and the service can not be beat. If you have an issue it will get resolved with NOSS. I bought a NOSS head and will never look back at another.

I recently put on a ricky stator stator. It didn't have much room to move and the clymers didn't have a gap setting that I could find. I just put some tension on it and pushed it toward the flywheel, tightened it up and made sure it didn't hit the flywheel. No problems. It just has to me close enough to detect the tab. It's used to make the coil drop it's spark. Since it is electronic ignition it's not imperitive to have it perfect like points.

Okay, the barnett steels are not thicker. I measured my uses ones that are currently in my machine and they are .045. The book says the stock ones are .047. I also had another set of steels for a banshee but I don't know the brand. They were very used and at .043. Looks like most steels will work with most fibers. But, you can defenitley use the barnett springs with the barnett steels.

A lot of our shees do the same thing. I'm trying different oils now. The oil I have in it now cause the clutch to stick really bad while in gear and the clutch pulled. It could just be the oil is thick. Do it do it as much when the oil is really warm from riding hard? That will let you know if it's just the oil.

For the money they look real good.

Cool, I've never heard of those before !!! I'm gonna have to look those up at the bike shop.

Stock carbs stick when they get wet. If they don't now, they will. Stock carbs are tough to jet to. If you haven't gotten a tors removal kit and want bigger carbs, just buy some. $50 for kit $80 for bore That's $130 Now $200 for new carbs and cable then sell your carb's for $40 You're only paying $30 dollars for better carbs. Just the way I see it.

If you ride in any kind of water sell the stockers and buy some aftermarket. Jetting is a lot easier with aftermarket carbs also. I think with porting you will notice a difference with 28mm but you will have to redo all the jetting.