fixitrod

dlnoss is the owner of noss machine. He is a user on this board. He can fill you in on everything you need to know about that.

pm nyuk. He usually has lots of stock parts.

If you talked to Ricky, then it's right. And yes you are right. They should be able to take the heat... that's what they are made for.

What I do.!!! I am seriously considering.... pm me with details.

Here's a seller click here ---> james lucky

So far I found the part number is 800619 for the barnett basket and it does look trick. To bad nobody will see it.

That rocky mountain deal is the way to go if it comes with the cushions. If not, you'll want to get a set. The cushions are used between the gear and the basket. I just realized everyone is showing you the hinson and you're looking for the barnett. I go take a look.

Well I don't think people run their lights all the time, but good point, I'm not too familiar with technology of stators like I am aftermarket alternators. I do believe the stock stator operates at full capacity or close to it, when the lights are on, does it not? 287882[/snapback] I think it does if the stator is truely at 60watts. They may over wire it a bit to keep it from overheating. It's just like the example of small wire and a big stator you gave except the small wire is on the stator with a stock one and being maxed out with 110 watts wanted. The higher watt bulb is less resistance and what makes the stator work harder and warmer. It's like trying to run 2ohm speakers on a 4ohm amp so I'm not sure you can't damage the stator. Did you talk to Ricky or someone else there.

BenBB's gearing calculator here ---> click here I didn't see sredish already posted it. Damn hyper links don't show up anymore.

Do you really want your stator to run at full capacitiy all the time though. I think that's what burns them up. Whenever you have a higher current bulb on there, it's going to make the stator work at full capacity. Not over capacity, but full capacity. I think that's what it boils down to.

for the price of some of those kits you could buy another quad. I dought it's worth it unless you cylinders need resleeved or something. I've never ridden one, but I just can't see it being worth it.

ttt

I had a stator that tested good but had a mind of it's own. If it was fine before it set and now won't run maybe a corroded connector.

Well, holeshot fronts from www.rockymountainatv.com are $177 to $197 depending on what thickness polished aluminum you go with. I'm assuming that's what you mean by chrome. That's leaves around $100. Kenda klaw are 128 to 148 and that's even cheaper than turf tamers. So for about $400 you can have a full new set. I have some good 22" holeshot xcr's but they are a big tire.

Okay, I got my tires mixed up. The current Kenda Klaw use to be called a bulldog Here's the web site http://www.kendausa.com/atv/sport.cfm?p=05 Here's a pic The current kenda knarly (I though was the klaw) use to be called a desert dog. Here's a pic Problem is the knarly is more for rec riding because it does not come in a 18" tire. The Klaw will most likely be my next tire. I spin my razors to much.

I'd say cut turf tamers or bulldogs. I think the bulldogs will be my next set of tires. The kenda klaws seem to be a good tire to. I haven't tried any of these out though so

If it really did have the power he'd have to run 17 39 for gears with a 25inch tire at 11000 to reach 142mph.

wish I could have made it

I've always knocked the heim joints in a ball joint application, but I sure like the idea of those boots.

Shocks and compression wouldl be a big benefit for you. It's fun anyway. Have fun and get in shape if you want to kick any ass. It's tougher than it looks.

If you have one that looks better than the one in the pic just file the peaks down like jkjk said. It'll work. That little bit of slop won't be bad unless you have a perfectly free clutch when it's pulled. There will always be some tension on that basket with the clutch plates. It may wear a little fast, but if you're trying to save some $$$ it'll work just fine.

I agree with that jetting. I'm in Fort Wayne and elevation is 700ft. It's cold out now so the richer side is most likely it. I think the toomeys with that filter may like a 27.5 pilot too.

My intakes don't have the tube. I can't tell you what it does or doesn't do. I've read explanations on the toomey page and one that I believe holyman posted a long time ago.

Depending on your porting 28mm or 30mm max. Ask the builder that you are thinking of using. I personally wouldn't buy boyesen rad valves. Put your money in delta's or pyramids.