lineybiker_11

i had the same problem with my dynojet needle i'm up to like 360 mains 4th clip down on the needle and 2 1/2 turns on the air screws. with the longer needle it takes away fuel for the idle and makes it run lean and if you let it sit and get hot with it that lean it will start to detonate cuz when i was adjusting my idle and air screws it got hot and started. i pulled the tether and it didn't stop then i pulled the plugs still ran pulled the coil wire still running gave it the gas and it quit it was nuts but you are running lean.

if you get them bored and nicasiled make sure you run a raw aluminum piston not the clome plated or nickle or whatever they are because it will tare sizz up i had that proplem with my snowmobile it had a big bore kit and i smoked 2 top ends in less that 100 miles so check your pistons

what should it be at?

i hear on here that you guys set your float hight but i'm not sure how. how do you do it and what does it do for your carberation. because the carbs were off this thing for like 4 or 5 years because it was my dads and it sat in the garage and i pulled it out and fixed it so i think it could be off from sitting.

ya thats what i have but it still has an air leak or somethin. i know the boots aren't ripped because i just had the engine was just rebuild its prolly only got an hour on it.

Can any of you guys with stock carbs take a pic of your choke tube between the carbs so i can see how it is because when i put it all back together there wasn't one and i need to see what one looks like to make it.

hey which fmf pipe reacts better to mods is the sst or the fatties? because i've heard both do and both don't from different people i was just wondering which one is better.

hey i found some lectron carbs my dad used when he raced snowmobiles. i think there 38's but i'm not sure but if they were 38's would they be too big to use with a single carb setup. i have some mods like bored 30 over, polished and ported, and a milled head. i also plan to get some sst's and reeds soon. do you think those 38's will work with my setup.

hey i got a mild port job and the head milled with stock pipes and after i jetted it all in i have 250 mains raise needle one slot and 20 pilots with the airscrews at 1 1/2 turns. and it ran and idled awsome the first day i got the carbs on and cleaned and stuff but now when it sits and idles it loads up and fouls the plugs but will run good at mid to wot. so i don't know whats wrong i've cleaned the carb 3 or 4 times thinking it was that but it wasn't i just don't know how it could change that much overnight. can you please give me some suggestions

i'm pretty sure its the two black wires and the two colored wires i think those are red and brown but i'm not sure. i just went through all my wiring the other day took out the tors, key, killswitch, and stock headlight. put in a tether and aftermarket lights and shes runnin like a champ

well when they come through with a lime green let us know cuz i'm defently getting some green if i can find them.

let me know if they get back with you cuz if its not too much maybe we can both get a set for a custom color

I was just wondering if anybody has ever seen lime green or just green shee plastics without them being painted. I would paint mine but i'm too rough on shit it was get scratched and peal and shizz. i was just wondering were you've seen it if you have?

i've done this with my snowmobile and your headphones have to pretty loud to hear them over the engine. and if it starts to run funny and sound different you can't really hear it because i had a billow in my exaust valve rip and it was boggin down on that side and i couldn't tell until i looked at the temp guages. Otherwise its awesome your pumped like the whole time if you get some heavy stuff.

mine just did that too. but it melted the little arm that the clutch cable goes to and blew a hole in the side of the case! $100 in parts and lots of this special putty.