fixitrod

So, ummm , who's gallery is that...

tz bearing

twister may be the best. I think the wiseco with a tz bearing either on the clutch side or replacing all the bearings is the biggest bang for the buck. Wiseco with a tz bearing on the clutch side

You need to make sure the teeth are straight on the sprocket, there is no play in the axle left and right, no play in the swing arm left and right (swingarm bearings). Also, the motor has to be aligned with the rear and motor mounts tight.

You can cut a slit in the side of a flathead screwdriver at an upward angle. Voila, a spring puller. I use a phillips screwdriver to put them on and take them off. The spring doesn't have anything to catch on while sliding to the hole on the pipe.

That's about it.. lol. That extractor is hardened. You'll have to preheat it for sure to get a good weld and it still may not hold. Good luck. If you have any pics... you may be suprised what people can come up for you.

I agree !!

Wiseco 795 and standard series pistons don't have a " top " to the rings. A lot of builders say to put the numbers up. This may be by habit or for future to put them back on the same way. In wiseco intructions it even says there is no top or bottom. As far as the holes, I've never added holes to any wiseco pistons in my banshee.

Handle bar risers and some (I hate to say this) but the ac pro pegs move the pegs considerably down and back. I just don't like AC. There are other mods to move the pegs also. I have the ac's. Everyone who rides mine says it's like a cadillac. I'm not tall, just like to be comfortable. You can also raise the handle bars. DS 650 are decent quads too. I'd sit on a few different models but don't worry about the banshee getting you up a hill. One of the fastest guys at glamis olds hill was about 250lb or heavier. But like said above, depends on your riding and what you are trying to accomplish.

If you can afford it and can take care of the everything else it's a good deal. Also, if you aren't going to go out and kill yourself. Make sure you'll be able to afford the other stuff like a helmet, 2 stroke oil, fuel, a place to keep it, you know... the regular stuff that comes with it.

Very Very nice work. I love seeing changes will proof.

I dought you'll need race gas with +4 if you don't need race gas now.

Yeah, it's Friday and it's raining and snowing now.

If I remember right the yamaha service manual says to soak the chain in kerosene.

What brand was it?

The do it yourself stuff sucks ass. My brother stripped his truck bed and worked his butt off doing it. Looked great for about a year and just started falling off.

You may also find a spacer instead of washers that will fit. Ace hardware has a selection of different spacers for jobs like that. It would look better than washers and you may be able to paint them to match the frame. I don't know how much space there is though. Just something I was thinking about.

Hey Loco, what device do you use to measure that. . . .

Me Too. They break easier too.

Hell, his wife would want to ride with us. The have a 450 and a banshee now.

In other words meat went through everything you are doing and it was a bad stator from Ricky Stator. I was in the trailer at coal fest when we figured it out. That's why I said to check it. I had a stator (not a ricky stator) that read good and was bad also. Matt on this site has also ran into stators that read good and aren't.

Me too!!! I need a stress reliever right now.

I think you'll gain more of that with more compression than reed cages. YOu don't need reed spacers. Don't overlook the pyramid reed cages either. They suprised me how smooth they come on.

This is from www.ericgorr.com Breaking In a New Bottom End The new lower end will need some patient break-in time. The best way is to let the engine idle for three separate 10-minute sessions with a 20-minute rest period between sessions. You don't need any extra pre-mix oil because the engine load is minimal when the engine is idling. This is for the top only rebuild 10) When you initially start the engine after a rebuild, manipulate the choke to keep the engine rpm relatively low. Once the engine is warm enough to take it off choke, drive the vehicle around on flat hard ground. Keep it under 2/3 throttle for the first 30 minutes. Two common myths for proper engine break-in are; 1) Set the engine at a fast idle, stationary on a stand. 2) Add extra pre-mix oil to the fuel. When the engine is on a stand it doesn't have any air passing through the radiator and it is in danger of running too hot. When you add extra oil to the fuel you are effectively leaning the carb jetting. This can make the engine run hotter and seize

I'd like to see that test. If the top of the bolts not perfect there is more metal to grip the bolt with a 6 point than a 12 point. There's just more room for error with a 6 point. I also do not like 12 point sockets ... if you can't tell.